Engine idle cold question

[schierholz]

Just want to know how the engine idle is supposed to be my idle is set at 750 with bad shakeing till 1000rpm and no jolts except for drive ?

[schierholz]

It's pretty much anything under 1000rpm that the car shakes bad with, when I start it up in the morning it cranks and needs cranking for a bit more than just a blip / if I blip it it won't turn over the first time but second yes, it goes to 1000 rpm for about 2/3 mins then climbs to 1500 rpm for another few mins then if I let it idle it falls back to 750/800 rpm at warm. I'm figuring this Is correct its on a f22a6. And just seeing if there is a way to fix the rear motor mount to a fixed position because I made the mistake of buying cheap eBay ones just want to know if this is a problem or something that can be over looked

[93redcb7]

the idle should go to about 1500 at first start up, then to 750-800 or so when warm. I would look at your FITV

[reklipz]

the idle should go to about 1500 at first start up, then to 750-800 or so when warm. I would look at your FITV

Just an FYI, there should be a sticker under your hood on the passenger side indicating the proper warm idle speed. I believe mine reads 700 +/- 50 RPM. I also want to note that the tachometer in our cars "skips" the first 500 RPM, so make note of this when you're attempting to adjust the warm idle speed.

[Accord problems]

what do you mean "skips".

[reklipz]

what do you mean "skips".

Notice how the first two marks are 0 RPM and 500 RPM? That's what I meant by "skips."

Perhaps it's just me, but this threw me for a loop until I took the time to actually notice what was going on with the dash.

[Accord problems]

im still lost .

[oyajicool]

I think what he means that there's no increments of 100's below 500 rpm mark.

[reklipz]

im still lost .

I don't know what to tell you then. I can try once more.

The first two hashes on the tachometer gauge are 0 RPM and 500 RPM, respectively. The 0 RPM hash is the boldest hash; a "10" hash. The 500 RPM hash is the next biggest hash, a "5" hash. The next two hashes are 600 RPM and 700 RPM, which are both the smallest hash, a "1" hash. Just like on an analog clock.

When I first tried to read/adjust my idle RPM, I didn't take note of the fact that the 100, 200, 300, and 400 RPM hash marks are not present, and was improperly reading the tachometer.

[Accord problems]

I think what he means that there's no increments of 100's below 500 rpm mark.

that's what i thought to butt thought every one knew that . common since .

[schierholz]

Interesting ... My car started that "surging idle " a bit ago and I opened te fitv and tightened that down and then my car as stated started at 1k and went up I think it only goes to 1.3k about when it warms up then like i said it drops back down as stated at the top. I looked at the service manual and tried un plugging the fast idle with the engine running and then it dropped instantly to 500rpm so I brought that up to the 700 mark with a friend watching the tac, now it still stars up at 1.3k rpm and idles at 8 or 900 rpm which with a poor made motor mount feels better I don't know what to do mabe pop the fitv and let it lose a bit? Because my car has not started and idled at 1.5k since I tightend the fitv to get rid of the surgeing idle

[oyajicool]

Just want to know how the engine idle is supposed to be my idle is set at 750 with bad shakeing till 1000rpm and no jolts except for drive ?

If my engine shakes or vibrates at lower RPM like idle speed, I would check for intake air/vacuum leak, valve clearances, engine mounts, spark plugs and such,,,,. I also perform compression test.