Camshaft Identification

[CB7 Coupe <3]

I have an f22a1 with mild bolt ons.
I have an aftermarket Cam Gear and it makes me wonder if my engine is cammed, Any ways i can distinguish a oem a1 camshaft and aem? Or even a1 from a6 ? It makes me wonder .. Do people really put aem camgears on a stock cam or is it most likely aftermarket?

[dj_ender]

I have an f22a1 with mild bolt ons.
I have an aftermarket Cam Gear and it makes me wonder if my engine is cammed, Any ways i can distinguish a oem a1 camshaft and aem? Or even a1 from a6 ? It makes me wonder .. Do people really put aem camgears on a stock cam or is it most likely aftermarket?

The A1/4 cam is marked with a 3A and the A6 is marked with a 4B. BUT most cams for our cars are regrinds of OEM cams, so the marks may not tell you anything.

[CB7 Coupe <3]

The A1/4 cam is marked with a 3A and the A6 is marked with a 4B. BUT most cams for our cars are regrinds of OEM cams, so the marks may not tell you anything.

Yah i noticed that, Well right on, thanks man. I don't plan on taking the valve cover off anytime soon but as soon as i can afford to beeef up my valve train ill check to get an idea of what cam i have.

[SOHC-FTW]

All's you've got to do is remove the distributor and check the stamping on the end of the cam.

Delta and others mark their cam's even if regrinds aswell.

[Jarrett]

You don't have to take the valve cover off. You just need to take the distributor off. If it hasn't had the o-ring on the distributor shaft replaced before then it may not be a bad idea anyway. Just mark the exact location of the mounting ears on the distributor before removal so ignition timing isn't affected after reassembly.

[SOHC-FTW]

You don't have to take the valve cover off. You just need to take the distributor off. If it hasn't had the o-ring on the distributor shaft replaced before then it may not be a bad idea anyway. Just mark the exact location of the mounting ears on the distributor before removal so ignition timing isn't affected after reassembly.

It's a common thing even i do it, but i don't think ignition timing will change hints why we have to jump the plug so the ecu will learn the new timing.

[Jarrett]

Yeah, you're right. Just a habit, I guess.

[SOHC-FTW]

I still do it to this very day just good measure.

[CB7 Coupe <3]

Right on ! I will get that o ring and check er out

[reklipz]

It's a common thing even i do it, but i don't think ignition timing will change hints why we have to jump the plug so the ecu will learn the new timing.

Ignition timing will definitely change. The reason you jump the service connector is to disable the electronic timing advance so that you can properly set the base ignition timing. Make sure you mark the distributor ears and mounts, just as Jarrett mentioned.

[SOHC-FTW]

It wont change you can set the dizzy where ever you want and until you jump the service conector it will always go back to the ignition timing it was at previously.

[dj_ender]

Just like you can move the dizzy and the timing will stay at 15 BTDC if you DO NOT have the connector jumped.

[SOHC-FTW]

Even my celicas the same way sometimes i forget to jump the conector and goes back to previous ignition timing. Now as i said its good habit and if removing the negative on the battery mark your spots if you're going to pull the dizzy.

I don't care either is fine, but i know for a fact if you're just moving or pulling the dizzy and nothing else it will go back to where it was at.

[GhostAccord]

How does that work again? If you where to physically move the distributor how does that not change the physical timing?

I agree that the electronic timing adjustments for RPM & load that the ECU/ICM put out will not change until reset.... However the physical timing should be different. Are you saying that the OBD1 ECU will learn that the physical timing has changed and then re maps the timing outputs to suit the moved distributor?

[reklipz]

How does that work again? If you where to physically move the distributor how does that not change the physical timing?

I agree that the electronic timing adjustments for RPM & load that the ECU/ICM put out will not change until reset.... However the physical timing should be different. Are you saying that the OBD1 ECU will learn that the physical timing has changed and then re maps the timing outputs to suit the moved distributor?

I think that's what they're saying, yeah. I've never heard of this before, and once I get a timing light I'm going to test the theory. I suppose it's plausible, but I don't think the rotor has enough of an arc of metal on it to allow for this much adjustment (electronic timing advance, as well as up to 30 degrees play for base timing).