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    Intake manifold removal.

    My car is a 1990 LX 4AT. I want to take the intake manifold off to replace the rear mount and clean out pretty good. I need some advice on what else, gaskets wise and parts replacements that I might need so I could prepare for it. Also, is coolant replacement needed and how much of it.
    Here's the diagram:


    I know I need gaskets #12, #14, and #18. Should I get one for the throttle body as well?
    How many bolts to take the manifold off? Perhaps some one could give a complete steps of what needs done as if you have done it already. I have the downloaded manual and it does not have a complete and clear procedure of doing this. It just has the head removal and engine removal. What are the torque specs so I won't snap and break any bolts.

    Thanks.

    #2
    Other than the gasket, do I need to use any thing else like RTV silicone in the corners like the valve cover?
    If I don't touch the TPS, I don't need to calibrate it after the installation?
    Thanks.

    Comment


      #3
      No sealant needed.


      Just get the bolts nice and snug. They're not 10 mm so you can use a good amount of torque, not too much though.
      “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
      ― Jeremy Clarkson




      Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


      Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

      Comment


        #4
        So what size bolts are they? 12mm? I read over the Hond-tech forums, the gasket is a bitch to clean up as you have to remove a few studs to put the new gasket on. At the same time, cleaning off both of the mating surface is a toughie.
        Thanks.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Bad_dude View Post
          So what size bolts are they? 12mm? I read over the Hond-tech forums, the gasket is a bitch to clean up as you have to remove a few studs to put the new gasket on. At the same time, cleaning off both of the mating surface is a toughie.
          Thanks.
          Theyre' 12mm man, and cleaning the surfaces is hard because the old gasket material gets very cooked on it and it takes a razor blade to remove it.
          “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
          ― Jeremy Clarkson




          Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


          Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

          Comment


            #6
            Its probably a good idea to put some Hondabond or Permatex Ultra Grey around the coolant passage between the head and the intake manifold, but other than that it should be straight forward.

            Most things on our Honda's can be removed/replaced with a 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm wrench.

            If you don't have those wrenches, you don't deserve to be anywhere near an old Honda
            Last edited by cloudasc; 04-07-2013, 04:03 PM.
            PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Mishakol129 View Post
              No sealant needed.


              Just get the bolts nice and snug. They're not 10 mm so you can use a good amount of torque, not too much though.
              Just to clarify on this post, because I don't want you snapping studs, the proper torque spec is 16 ft/lbs.
              Originally posted by Mishakol129
              Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks. What size are the bolts? 12mm hex?
                Originally posted by dj_ender View Post
                Just to clarify on this post, because I don't want you snapping studs, the proper torque spec is 16 ft/lbs.

                Comment

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