New every ball joint....still shakes at 55 ish

[deevergote]

It is your wheels/tires not being balanced or related to your wheels/tires like being out of round/bad belt or something like that.


The problem is in your wheels/tires. For sure. Swap front to back and I bet the problem changes. Do this FOR FREE IN 20 MINUTES to confirm the common theory.



The reason I say its not a blown strut/suspension is the problem is speed specific. Blown struts have issues at every mph. If it was an axle, it would be specific to load, not speed. So coasting at 70mph would stop the shake if it was axle related. Popping it into N or pulling it out of gear would stop the shake if it was related to the axle 999/1000 times.



No load, still shakes, speed specific, ITS YOUR WHEELS/TIRES BROSKI

That's most likely the case...
BUT, a blown shock may not be as noticeable (especially if the car is already harshly lowered) until higher speeds. I've seen cars on the highway with tires bouncing like basketballs. That would definitely translate to the steering wheel as a vibration, and it wouldn't occur with such a regular frequency at lower speeds.

[cb7 calling]

Alignment, check
Wheel balance,check
Shake? Much better. Probly only residual wheel wear remaining.
Probably still could get handling improvement with new engine mounts and brake rotors. At least I can cruise at 70 mph now though.

[Losiracer2]

i would double check the upper control arm bushings again. Sometimes if the anchor bolts aren't tightened enough that could lead to a high speed vibration.

I'm talking about the bolts that slide through the bushings, not the ones that anchor it to the body of the car.

[cb7 calling]

After 5 days of driving. (400 miles). I basicly have the same shake. Since the alignment/ wheel balance I can smoothly drive to avoid it. I'm hoping to change the brake discs this weekend. But it is mothers day and I work Saturday. It's gotta be brake discs or driver side cv joint. Either way I'm wearing out all my new stuff fast, ill be doing ball joints in another month if I don't fix this .

[accordztech]

When they did the wheel balance....did they get it exactly at zero? Or was there is a .05 difference? Because for some shops .05 you barley wont feel anything. However I think you do. I always tell them that even though its "within tolerence" to make it at zero.

If they cant put it at zero then they have to dismount the tire and remount and rebalance it.

[PR CB7]

Just because you've done it a thousand times doesn't mean you didn't mess up this time. Never discount the possibility that you may have made a mistake. I've watched many people pull their hair out fixing everything BUT their own mistakes due to pride.

so so true

but to the OP, always start with the simple things first and ruling out

i currently have this similar problem and here's my story


on the wifeys car i bought all 4 gabriel shocks with lifetime warranty, the car is slammed on its nuts so whenever they blow i change them
with prelude blades (205/55?16 5lug) the car rad like a dream, even though it had a destroyed drivers shock

granted my tie-rods are in great shape, upper control arm is farely new and anchors are set right, lower control bushings are in somewhat of a good condition

but i started getting the same problem, after i swapped wheels to rsx-s 17s
sticking my head out the car and going over reflectors i could see the front wheel out of control

exchanged all 4 shocks and top mount bushings, raised the front suspension a bit, and i still get the 70mph shake, again with the 16s i never got this

i did a road force test on the tires and the tires are out of round by 14psi, which those that have ever messed with one know

start ruling shit out, put the car on stands and hit 70mph and check what shakes or vibrates etc

no need to replace knuckles and control arms when the problem is something else

[PR CB7]

i too drive 30-35 miles one way to work, its frustating

[cb7 calling]

Ok I'm a real wrench turner again. Nobody mentioned this and honestly because its probably the first thing I should have done. Brake rotors. I pulled everything apart this morning and the first thing I noticed was a catch while spining the rotor. I pulled the brake off and no catch. I bought a driver side rotor, tapped the bearing/hub off the knuckle and put the rotor on. When putting it back together I noticed my lower ball and tie rod end are already about to go. Test drove it and bam 90 percent of the shakes gone. The other ten % are probably in the other rotor with 331,000 miles on it. It used to feel like the driverside and now it feels like the passenger. Next Monday ill do the other one. And the driver side lower ball/outer tie rod and anything on the passenger side already ruined.
Brake rotors, sheesh. Say what you want I bet if you drove it you would not have guessed it. The only evedence was high speed shakes.

[oyajicool]

Some people talk big but don't know shit. They defend themselves when someone confront it or point it out. Often times they contradict themselves in the process without knowing.

Most of them don't have big balls as you to fess up. Big props for you coming out with the resolution.

[accordztech]

HAHAH you said all your balljoints were new. Thats what happends when you get ahead of yourself. Through you did have another issue but there you go.

[cb7 calling]

I just put them on two weeks/800 miles ago and yeah they are shot at least the driver lower and tie rod end. The uppers are good still. I mean they were real bad when I replaced them like clicking when I shook them they are just a little loose now at least on the driver side. Hopefully all goes well next week.