Axle replacement tool sizes?

[M3kamikaze]

do what fizz said, hit it with a hammer. Also, to lower the risk of hitting the threads of the ball joint...take the castle nut off, then put it back on, and thighten enough to where the btm of the stud is flush with the castlenut. That way, if you hit the stud, you'll wack the castle nut

But as fizz said, I just beat the hell out of it with a hammer and POP goes the wizzle

i didn't hit it here. we hit it on the lower control arm where you take out the bolt that connects the damper fork.

::explanation::


ok i figured it out earlier. i had one of my friends come over and he used a 1/2" diameter metal pipe about 1-1/3 feet long and placed it where the damper fork through bolt went through (after you take it out) and hit the shit out of the lower control arm with a mini sledge hammer. it took a crap load of really hard hits on the pipe, but it finally came out. got the axles out and in. thanks for all the advice and tips. i'll probably post up some pics in the DIY thread that has a nonexistent link.

i didn't know how much force and a beating that lower control arm could take in the beginning. but in the end, i found out you can hit it as hard as you can many many many many times before getting the lower balljoint to pop out. that's what i need to know, and i found that out today. i thought i could break it, but if you hit it right, it'll take a beating and live to see another decade.

[FishyMan]

how did u get the damper fork to line up/ n put it in?

[lucid]

how did u get the damper fork to line up/ n put it in?

push the strut back and drop in the damper fork over the axle then the LCA, lower the fork and align the bottom of the strut with it, then raise the fork into place around the strut as high up as possible. The small (14mm) bolt from the top of the fork should be removed completely or almost completely. Align the lower fork with the LCA and insert the 17mm bolt through both. Use a hammer if you're more than halfway through and get stuck. Put the nut on, go ahead and tighten it. Push up on the hub to ensure the strut is as far down in the fork as possible, insert and tighten the 14mm bolt, it will align itself with the groove on the back of the strut and lock into place if everything is assembled correctly. Good Luck

[FishyMan]

i took the pinch fork and i played and pushed the assembly and finally got it to work. i was not able, for the love of god to do it w/o removing the pinch fork... lol

tahnks

getting the LBJ still posses a problem..

[accordmaniac]

36 mm it is....

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=19953

I didn't know that.
Most of Korean cars.. Hyundai, Daewoo, Kia uses 32mm... So I have socket up to 32mm .. Thanks.

[lucid]

I wish I were there so I could kick that things ass for you... If you want a little advice on those bastards....Use the fork (tie rod fork works too), put both front wheels up so that they are free for you to turn the wheel to get a good angle, jam the fork from the front, right around the bj boot (or up to it), You need a short, heavy hammer- because there's not a lot of room but you need a lot of force. On my accord the handle of the fork will be near the bottom corner of the bumper and sticking out just enough that I can hit the fork and not the car. Ok, multiple hits and vibration don't free old stuck ball joints. You need one hard, solid hit. Here's what I do: hit it what I think is hard enough over and over and nothing happens (elapsed time: 1.5 min), then I get pissed and other people want to try but this is personal, so I give it 3 or 4 angry hits like each one is the last and it pops out (elapsed time: 10 sec) right before my arms fall off...yay! So really you only have to hit them one time to get them to pop out, but there's a lot of wasted time and effort trying to get that monster hit (sounds like most of my days ) Have a bigger friend try if that doesn't work, Good Luck!