Axle replacement tool sizes?

[M3kamikaze]

Replacing my axles soon.
Need to know what size sockets, ratchets, wrenches, etc. I'll need to do this.

I know the drive axle hub nut size is 36mm.

What is the size for:
-the fork-to-lower control arm bolt? EDIT: two 17mm sockets/wrenches; one on one side to loosen, and the other on the other side to keep it from spinning.
-Castle nut? EDIT: 17mm
-EDIT and no, you don't need to take the rotors/brakes off. you don't need to disconnect any brake lines or any lines for that matter.
EDIT some pliers to get the cotter pins out. bend the ends to make the straight, then grab them with the pliers and hammer them till the head comes out. then use the pliers to pull it out.
anything else? EDIT: 2 jaw puller (3 won't fit, pitman arm puller might not even work..tried it). if you don't use a puller (if its really a bitch and won't come out), you'll need either a hammer or mini (short handle) sledgehammer to hardcore knock the crap out of the lower control arm. a 1/2" diameter pipe about 1-1/3 feet long wouldn't hurt either. if you know what you're doing, it won't take but 20-30 minutes to do both sides. if things aren't as easy getting out, you aren't using enough force. them things can take a beating, you just have to give it it what it wants. didn't even have to use a prybar to get the driver's side out. just yanked the shit out of it and hit it with the sledge. solution on page 2

[YK86]

I can't remember off the top of my head but you will use most of the standard sizes like 10mm (brake line to frame bolt), 14mm and 17mm (fork bolt and nut, can't remeber if they were 14 or 17) and 19mm (lower balljoint castle nut). I usually use a combo of both ratchet/breaker bar and combination wrench so having a set of both would be best. You won't need anything bigger or smaller aside from the axle nut socket. Pliers (cotter pins), hammer, ball joint removal tool would help for the lower balljoint, and a pry bar or big flathead screwdriver (popping out the axle) will be needed as well.

[JohnnyB]

I just did it, I am almost sure it is 36MM. When I get home I'll check for ya.

[k-mart]

36 mm it is....

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=19953

[Mista Juice]

I just did it, I am almost sure it is 36MM. When I get home I'll check for ya.

36 mm it is....

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=19953

wtf?.. he already knows the axle nut size..

[k-mart]

wtf?.. he already knows the axle nut size..

yea, haha, i was trying to edit it once i re-read the original post

[wed3k]

i needed a prybar for lossening the lower balljoint nut and re-aligning the suspension.

oh and a fork wont really work for the balljoint thing, you'll need a 2-jaw puller or my way

[M3kamikaze]

oh and a fork wont really work for the balljoint thing, you'll need a 2-jaw puller or my way

well i went to autozone and put down a deposit on a 3-jaw puller (they didn't have a 2) and a pitman arm puller. i've read on here in a few places that the three won't work and a two is needed. i dunno, if it doesn't work, i'll try your way, which i saw in another post.

and by the way, i used a 1/2" breaker bar with the 36mm socket (on loan from autozone) and i got the axle nut loose in 5 seconds, which surprised the hell out of me.

[wed3k]

well i went to autozone and put down a deposit on a 3-jaw puller (they didn't have a 2) and a pitman arm puller. i've read on here in a few places that the three won't work and a two is needed. i dunno, if it doesn't work, i'll try your way, which i saw in another post.

and by the way, i used a 1/2" breaker bar with the 36mm socket (on loan from autozone) and i got the axle nut loose in 5 seconds, which surprised the hell out of me.

took me 2 breaker bars, a torque wrench and finally a trip down to wheel works for my passenger side one, lol

[wed3k]

never needed a puller on any balljoint EVER.........if you can hit what you're swinging at with a hammer, then put some pressure on the stud of the ball joint with a bottle jack (without the nut, just make sure the stud has upward pressure applied, not a whole lot, but like if you were pulling up on it) and then beat the hell out of the part of the arm the ball joint sits in....in a few solid hits, it will pop up

worked every single time....if you suck with a hammer, you'll miss and beat the hell out of everything anyway.......and you really have to suck to miss a 3" target

i tried that and hit the thread of the balljoint, lol

[M3kamikaze]

i've removed the damper fork-to-lower control arm bolt. i'm stuck on the castle nut. i got the cotter pin out, but the castle nut won't budge. i've tried spraying some penetrant on it, tried using a pipe for more leverage, but it won't budge and is just getting stripped. i'm using a 17mm wrench on it, which is the right size. is there any way to get the axle out without loosening the castle nut?

[wed3k]

i've removed the damper fork-to-lower control arm bolt. i'm stuck on the castle nut. i got the cotter pin out, but the castle nut won't budge. i've tried spraying some penetrant on it, tried using a pipe for more leverage, but it won't budge and is just getting stripped. i'm using a 17mm wrench on it, which is the right size. is there any way to get the axle out without loosening the castle nut?

u talking about the lower control arm right? the castle nut for the balljoint?
you sure you are turning the right way? when its upside down you turn the opoosite way, lol

just making sure.

[YK86]

i tried that and hit the thread of the balljoint, lol

A really good method is to take out the castle nut and flip it upside down (not the right side up because hammering it will ruin the crowned parts of the nut) and thread it so the flat side is flush with the balljoint stud. You can smash it hard and it'll also give you a bigger surface to hit. Also, if you hit the stud too hard without a nut, the holes for the cotter pin compress (that area bulges out) ruining the stud. This is great for when you want to reuse balljoints but still need to take them apart.

As for the nut turning, the balljoint might be too worn out. If it's bad enough, the stud spins with the nut when you turn it. If this is the case, try to get a hold of an impact wrench. You need to somehow get the nut to turn faster than the stud can move. If that isn't possible, I usually place a load on the lower arm (with a car jack) which will push the stud in tight against the lower arm just enough to keep it from moving.

[TheTempest]

do what fizz said, hit it with a hammer. Also, to lower the risk of hitting the threads of the ball joint...take the castle nut off, then put it back on, and thighten enough to where the btm of the stud is flush with the castlenut. That way, if you hit the stud, you'll wack the castle nut

But as fizz said, I just beat the hell out of it with a hammer and POP goes the wizzle

[M3kamikaze]

you sure you are turning the right way? when its upside down you turn the opoosite way, lol just making sure.

yep, i'm sure.

A really good method is to take out the castle nut and flip it upside down (not the right side up because hammering it will ruin the crowned parts of the nut) and thread it so the flat side is flush with the balljoint stud. You can smash it hard and it'll also give you a bigger surface to hit. Also, if you hit the stud too hard without a nut, the holes for the cotter pin compress (that area bulges out) ruining the stud. This is great for when you want to reuse balljoints but still need to take them apart.

I got the castle nut off on the passenger side, but still no go on the driver's side. As for getting the balljoint out, I've tried beating the crap out of it with a mallet, a hammer, a big ass metal pipe, my foot. Tried using a pitman arm puller on it, and it just laughed at me. Tried putting a jack under it, and beating the crap out of it, but still no go. Today, I'm calling around for a 2 jaw puller, since I know from experience that a 3 jaw won't work. It's kind of like my last option.

As for the nut turning, the balljoint might be too worn out. If it's bad enough, the stud spins with the nut when you turn it. If this is the case,

it's not the case. i think it's just rusted like hell. I thought about grinding it out, and replace it with a new nut, but I don't have a grinder. I was also thinking about taking it to a shop and letting them replace the nut for me.

do what fizz said, hit it with a hammer. But as fizz said, I just beat the hell out of it with a hammer and POP goes the wizzle

just to make sure, what part are you hitting? the part that holds the lower ball joint in place right? from what direction should i hit? i've tried every. so about how many really hard good hits? 10-15?