Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Rear motor mount condition

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Rear motor mount condition

    I just ordered a rear motor mount, authentic from Honda.
    The outer plastic/rubber coating looks cracked. Is that bad?






    And just because I saw it in the album, here is the Amazon branded motor mount I put in in December.



    It was worse than what I took out.
    See the bolt closest to you? It snapped.
    MRT
    37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
    30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
    27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

    Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

    Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
    Originally posted by Tippey764
    I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
    Originally posted by deevergote
    sneaky motherfucker

    #2
    That sure just looks like cracked paint over the rubber... If it is, I'd say you're alright.
    1992 Accord LX CB9 149K Stock
    2014 F350 Platinum CCSB SRW

    Comment


      #3
      Yeah.... it needed replacing.











      The motor has never been this smooth. Even when I bought the car.

      From these pictures, it looks like the mount isn't fluid filled, as it should be.
      MRT
      37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
      30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
      27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

      Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

      Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
      Originally posted by Tippey764
      I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
      Originally posted by deevergote
      sneaky motherfucker

      Comment


        #4
        I used the Anchor/Doan 8011 w/o solenoid and just capped off the vaccuum line

        did you try replacing the bolt that broke with a higher strength (grade) bolt/nut combo
        http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...82408002-1.jpg

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by bobbycos View Post
          I used the Anchor/Doan 8011 w/o solenoid and just capped off the vaccuum line

          did you try replacing the bolt that broke with a higher strength (grade) bolt/nut combo
          Nope. I had put off replacing it because there was nothing technically broken.
          Once I saw this, I was actually thrilled. This mount has been absolute garbage since I installed it.

          I just got back from driving to school, and the ride has never been so smooth.
          MRT
          37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
          30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
          27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

          Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

          Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
          Originally posted by Tippey764
          I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
          Originally posted by deevergote
          sneaky motherfucker

          Comment


            #6
            I changed mine 2 weeks ago, today I fired up my car for the first time and bam !! so smooth .. no more clicking / breaking sounds when changing gears ... and yeah mine looks just like yours, these cracks are paint not rubber.

            By the way, you should lift the engine slightly using a plywood if you want to unbolt any of the motor mounts big bolts properly, as big as they may look... when you jack it up .. they are as easy to remove as the 10 mm bolts and you won't damage the threads.

            If you want my advice, since you changed the rear engine mount ... remove all other mounts, one at a time ... fill it with polyurethane (I filled it with high temp RTV because I didn't find polyurethane) especially the gaps ... and the only sound you will hear is the rocker arms "giggling" .. and no vibration whatsoever.

            My rear engine mount was torn 360 degrees it cost me 40$ ... after replacing it, I said to myself, why don't I do preventive maintenance for the other 3 using the polyurethane DIY ... I didn't believe the results today !! when I fired it up !! >>> I went up and cleaned the engine bay to pimp my CB7 for satisfaction.

            Comment


              #7
              I'm gonna say probably not. I had a really bad experience using solid mounts for my rear control arms.

              Although, your advice for jacking up the engine is solid. I did the same.
              MRT
              37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
              30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
              27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

              Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

              Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
              Originally posted by Tippey764
              I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
              Originally posted by deevergote
              sneaky motherfucker

              Comment


                #8
                I didn't mean for your rear .... you car is automatic like mine if I remember. .even the same color ... the rear mount you can't do anything about it but buy a new one ... I was talking about the other 3 ... side engine mount, tranny mount and front engine mount .... as I mentioned I used high temp RTV ... ended up like rubber when cured ... no vibrations !!

                Comment

                Working...
                X