Too much engine vibration with ESP mounts

[Mishakol129]

Got the ESP 5 speed mount kit but its vibrating too much. I wanna get the 60A inserts from ESP but I don't know how long they'll last. As a quick solution without any headache, can I just put a stock rear mount to help it out?
Cause I've seen things like this happen with 60A and I dont' want that:

[sonikaccord]

The rear mount won't do much, imo. The engine is attached to the frame with the side mounts. I would think the majority of the vibrations come from there.

[Stoner51]

I have just a solid rear and front mount.

I can tell you it can be rough if you have a low idle.

steve

[Mishakol129]

So will the rear mount help eliminate vibrations or no?
60A sounds better but will they last, IDK. I think I'll get them only if the ESP guy promises a warranty.

[sonikaccord]

I have the ESP mounts as well and the vibration is only harsh if I'm accelerating under 2000rpm. Steve, how does your rpm range above idle feel?

, I don't see how that mount even deformed like that unless it was under serious torsion.

[93twodoorLX]

softening the rear mount WILL help with the vibration that you are not prepared to handle. I had the two side mounts filled with i believe 90a and an energy suspension dogbone mount insert and it felt fine. then i installed the filled rear mount and WOAH! vibration. its not bad though. guess it also depends on how smooth your engine runs. personally i love it. as long as the a/c compressor isnt on at idle. makes my steering wheel look like its trying to jump out of the window.

-sean

[Stoner51]

softening the rear mount WILL help with the vibration that you are not prepared to handle. I had the two side mounts filled with i believe 90a and an energy suspension dogbone mount insert and it felt fine. then i installed the filled rear mount and WOAH! vibration. its not bad though. guess it also depends on how smooth your engine runs. personally i love it. as long as the a/c compressor isnt on at idle. makes my steering wheel look like its trying to jump out of the window.

-sean

I have 64 urethane macmaster. My idle is about 800 with the ac on and especially after my recent spal fan upgrade. That mofo will vibrate the dash loose. This only happened after the rear mount install.

I have always had the filled solid front. As soon as I put the rear in it was a different car a lot more vibration. But like sean said only at idle with the the ac on mainly.

My point is as soon as I stalled the 64 filled rear mount. I noticed this difference. I am going to put the stock mount back in. Or I may try partially filling the rear and see how that does. I like the firmness of the shifts. But the idle is bullshit.

I would like to note that those two fans and the ac draw a shit ton of amps and most people prob won't have this problem. I will be upping my alt from 130 amp to 170 in the near future. Maybe I just don't have enough juice.

steve

[sonikaccord]

Really? My car doesn't feel that bad at idle...then again I had a broken rear mount for the longest so I may have a bad reference. The car is slightly vibrating at idle like a massage chair on low. It's only when I'm in a high gear at a low speed is when it shakes the shit out my car...

[Mishakol129]

softening the rear mount WILL help with the vibration that you are not prepared to handle. I had the two side mounts filled with i believe 90a and an energy suspension dogbone mount insert and it felt fine. then i installed the filled rear mount and WOAH! vibration. its not bad though. guess it also depends on how smooth your engine runs. personally i love it. as long as the a/c compressor isnt on at idle. makes my steering wheel look like its trying to jump out of the window.

-sean

Wow really, that's good to know. I decided to just get the rear mount use that instead. I was gonna get eBay brand but decided not to cause they Beck/Arnley would was only $20 more.

So i'll just leave the rear mount stock and keep the 70 inserts... Unless going to 60a for the side mounts is a good idea, not sure. The guy at ESP said that there wasn't a big difference from 70a to 60a.

[EsperHamid]

check your exhaust rubber mounts

[Raf99]

Interesting. My 5 speed red 70A polyurethanes ESP mounts arrive yesterday. I'm running a low compression H22A with the balancer shaft deleted, so this should be interesting when I install these...

[toycar]

You guys should try adjusting your idle to around 1000 rpm's or so and see if that doesn't straighten out your vibrations.



Just like a/c being on can cause vibrations at idle(im sure you guys have seen this on some cars), stiffening the mounts puts load on the motor just the same. Its hard to explain, but it is allowed to shift a bit when the motor is in the cradle right, and thats why upgrading these mounts is even considered an upgrade, right? Well, stiffening the mounts keeps more force in the powertrain, and its kind of like adding load to the motor at idle. Try playing with your idle and see if that doesn't help.


It might not. On both of my dsm's it helped a ton, and they idle about 1100 rpms by choice. I'd rather deal with a little higher idle thats barely noticeable compared to deathshake steering wheel at red lights. I bet you've already noticed there is an ideal engine speed where the vibration isn't even noticeable. There is a sweet spot, but, different stiffness, different climates etc etc


Im not sure it will solve it for all of you guys, but it helped me.

[EsperHamid]

You guys should try adjusting your idle to around 1000 rpm's or so and see if that doesn't straighten out your vibrations.



Just like a/c being on can cause vibrations at idle(im sure you guys have seen this on some cars), stiffening the mounts puts load on the motor just the same. Its hard to explain, but it is allowed to shift a bit when the motor is in the cradle right, and thats why upgrading these mounts is even considered an upgrade, right? Well, stiffening the mounts keeps more force in the powertrain, and its kind of like adding load to the motor at idle. Try playing with your idle and see if that doesn't help.


It might not. On both of my dsm's it helped a ton, and they idle about 1100 rpms by choice. I'd rather deal with a little higher idle thats barely noticeable compared to deathshake steering wheel at red lights. I bet you've already noticed there is an ideal engine speed where the vibration isn't even noticeable. There is a sweet spot, but, different stiffness, different climates etc etc


Im not sure it will solve it for all of you guys, but it helped me.

when I am in gear and driving in the city the vibration disappears due to rpm being higher so it is normal at higher than idle rpms for the shaking to disappear.

Raising idle to 1100 will result in poor gas mileage with CB7 a sitting duck (e.g. Traffic). I think swapping parts play a major role in putting load on the engine and creating vibration just because the IM or EM from different engines numbers fit doesn't mean it is a perfect fitting, the opening on the head might be smaller or larger than the IM /EM swapped even if it bolts on ... this can be solved by designing and cutting your own gasket, but not all people are skilled doing it

[illinois_erik]

dont use race car parts if youre expecting a town car.

[Granite CB7]

Toycar absolutely nailed it. I always ran a 900-1000 rpm idle with my 94a mounts. I always found the CB alittle sluggish if the idle was too low, I like the higher idle myself. Also, the difference between 60a and 70a is going to be so minimal I wouldn't even bother.