My brakes wont bleed!? Help

[AAPOQ]

Also, make sure your bleeder screws aren't completely clogged with rusty gunk. Sometimes it takes a few times to get fluid rollin thru the lines.

[SlimmTex]

Make sure your system isn't contaminated before you go any further. The first step of any brake related service should always be to make sure its not contaminated. Any petroleum based fluid (power steering fluid, trans fluid, oil. etc) will ruin all the rubber bits in your brake system. Take the lid off your master and look at the little rubber ring around the top. If it looks all bloated/swollen then I'm sorry to say somebody stepped on their dick bigtime! The only way to correct this situation is to replace every hydraulic component in the system except the steel lines (those need to be thoroughly flushed with denatured alcohol)

Your most likely not contaminated so here some other (preferable) possibilities.
Air is compressible brake fluid is not. I think the most probable problem here is simply you have allowed so much air into the system that your having trouble pumping it out due to the fact that it easily compresses. Gravity bleeding it for a good while and then foot bleeding it will help in this case, however the only way I ever RECOMMEND bleeding your brakes is using a pressure bleeder. There are a lot of reasons why that's the best way. Its not to expensive usually but it is something you would have to take to a shop to have done.

The brake system is diagannaly split in our cars so the right rear and left front are on the same hydraulic circuit. If you getting no fluid at both RR and LF its likely that your master is no good. Basicly one of two things is going on, iether your not developing pressure to be sent to that half of the system (bad primary seal in master) or there is a restriction in line between the master and the affected wheels.

To actually diagnose this instead of guessing you need a pressure bleeder. Once the system is pressurized you start at the bleeder and work you way toward the master, opening each hydraulic fitting. When you get to one that vents pressure when you open it (could be air or fluid coming) whatever component you just passed is clogged.

EG:
You open RR bleeder; nothing.
You loosen the flare nut going into the cylinder; nothing
the flare nut at the lower end of the rubber hose; nothing
the flare nut at the top end of the rubber hose; fluid pours out! Hose is proven bad.

As far as you parking brake not working anymore its going to be the adjustment on the shoes is to far in or the shoes and/or cable are not properly installed.

Hope this helps some.

[8ball]

Thank you for the informative post.
Ill try vacuum bleeding since i dont own nor have funds to acquire a pressure bleeding tool, and i may replace the master cylinder once i re attempt to bleed the system, this time with a vacuum bleeder. Ill update

[8ball]

I Believe the primary Seal on the mc is ruptured when i made the rookie mistake and tried to bleed with the System
open and engine on.