Doing front brakes.. Tips/tricks/advice?

[Theos92VR4]

What should i alot myself time wise doing front brakes on my car (92 ex, manual trans)? I have a compressor, along with a buddy helping me that has done them on his 94 accord. Any tips to make it easier/faster? I know its a bitch job.

I will be replacing the following with new parts:
Rotors
Calipers (reman)
Pads
wheel hubs and bearings
Axle seal (mine is leaking, didnt have the seal when I did the axle).
MTF

[Raf99]

What should i alot myself time wise doing front brakes on my car (92 ex, manual trans)? I have a compressor, along with a buddy helping me that has done them on his 94 accord. Any tips to make it easier/faster? I know its a bitch job.

I will be replacing the following with new parts:
Rotors
Calipers (reman)
Pads
wheel hubs and bearings
Axle seal (mine is leaking, didnt have the seal when I did the axle).
MTF

If you have never done any of this work prior, I would say allocate the whole afternoon to do this. Especially if you don't have a press. If unsure watch videos first (Eric the car guy) on how to do the tricky items here, hub/bearing, axle seal, hub axle nut.

Depending on your car, you could spend the whole day stuck on one axle nut and still not make progress.

Best of luck.

[1993 CB7 LX]

do a rotor over hub conversion. you will not be disappointed.

[Theos92VR4]

do a rotor over hub conversion. you will not be disappointed.

If i didnt already have all the parts, and my car wasnt undriveable cause of the caliper locking up, thus destroying the rotor, believe me i would. I will probably get everything together for the next time this thing needs front brakes.

[bobbycos]

if you have the 12 point bolts holding the wheel bearing to the spindle, this is the best socket for taking them out

it's by Mac tools and available online from them, part number VP10MMR

[johnl]

If i didnt already have all the parts, and my car wasnt undriveable cause of the caliper locking up,

Insufficient free play at the pedal / push rod can cause brakes to 'self apply' once some temperature gets into the brake fluid, and then to release once the temperature falls (been there). You need at least some pedal free play to ensure that the orifice between the reservoir and the MC bore is properly open when the pedal is not depressed. If not then fluid can get trapped in the system and can't escape back into the reservoir when the pedal is released. Then, as heat causes the fluid to expand the fluid pressure gets higher and higher, and the pads pushed harder and harder against the rotor...

Internal delamination in a rubber brake hose can cause the pressure to not release from the calliper, resulting in brake drag (been there too). The hose can look fine from the outside, but an internal delamination can act like a one way valve inside the hose.

[Theos92VR4]

I finished this job yesterday morning. Actually did it at my own house with no air tools. Whoever did the brakes the most recent time saved my ass, they had anti seize on everything, so it came apart super easy. And I was definitely glad i ordered the new hubs with wheel bearings, my left front wheel bearing was shot.

And I also found out what originally caused the problem. The right front caliper was apparently seized up/working incorrectly for quite some time, it was wearing the pads unevenly, so the outside pad had 50-60% life left, inside pad was down to the metal, and eventually the caliper got stuck with the piston fully out, which pushed the brake pad out, which caused me to lose all of my brakes.

So I was definitely glad I bought the reman calipers. The car drives like new now, i did the master cylinder as well, when i did the rear brakes (2 months ago) car drives perfect now.