So on my last post witch I thought my transmission was shuddering it turns out to be a EGR related problem. I have the links to the DIY for EGR cleaning but have a few questions. How do I go about getting the EGR valve removed? Doesn't look like a regular socket will work. I've heard of people using a wobble socket extension. Can the ports be cleaned without removing the fuel injectors? From what I can see on my engine it would be a close fit but is possible. Has anyone ever done it without removing the fuel injectors and the manifold on the car?
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If you are taking the time to clean the EGR valve, it would be advisable to take the extra time to clean the EGR ports as well. In order to clean the entire system properly it is best done with the injectors and fuel rail completely removed. relieve the fuel pressure and take remove the fuel rail nuts. Takes no time to pull them all out all at once with the rail.
While they are out you should check the injector O-rings as well. Might want to pick up 4 new O rings along with your EGR gasket before you start the job. Or you can roll the dice and hope they are all good to reuse. -
I suggest you watch the Eric the car guy video on youtube, the one I saw was for a 5th gen accord, but he does a good job of easily removing the fuel rail (with injectors left in the rail) and swinging it out of the way w/o disconnecting anything really. Without any leaks too, if you're careful the orings can be reused. I was able to do the rear 4 ports (the most important ones) on a BB6 prelude w/ the fuel rail left in place (owner insisted) but I had to slightly angle my drill so the chuck didn't hit the rail, I say swing the rail out of the way. I recently did this on a 93 LX, swung the rail out of the way and reused the original brass plugs but filled the holes in with hondabond. Let the hondabond or rtv set overnight though! To yank the egr valve, I use a 12mm shallow socket and 3/8" drive wobble extension with JUST enough room, obviously with 1/4" drive components there'd be more wiggle room but 3/8" works.Last edited by Granite CB7; 02-03-2015, 06:48 PM.Comment
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Helpful input in this thread. Useful to me seeing that I plan on doing this in the spring.
1991 Accord LX .Comment
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OK so as we all know it's in a really tight spot the EGR valve that is lol I got one bolt off without a problem but the second one towards the front is stripped even after spraying it multiple times with penetrating oil lol. Anyone have a good way to remove a stripped bolt? Would it be fine to drive around with it unplugged and CEL on?Comment
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Oh boy, well, keep soaking it, put a propane torch to the nut itself, the heat will expand it away from the stud and helps to get things moving again. Maybe tap on a slightly smaller socket (11 mm perhaps in 6 point?) do not go overboard and crack the runner! I know it's a tight area though. As long as the egr valve itself has vacuum and is connected to the harness, you will have no CEL regardless of where it is.Comment
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http://www.harborfreight.com/9-pc-38...set-67894.htmlOriginally posted by Kev1990 View Post
use one thats just a bit smaller and tap it on, put some pipe on the ratchet or a breaker bar and try one continuous swing. either way the nuts coming off or the stud will come out of the aluminum.
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