crank pulley

[93redcb7]

Has anyone used a underdrive pulley such as this one, I know it turns slower which I guess would maybe affect alternator?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-90-93-HO...1f6ffb&vxp=mtr

does it affect drive-ability at all? cause im in need of a new one but the only other one i can find is this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Harmonic...6b9de4&vxp=mtr

And id like an aluminum one if I can, more for cosmetic looking than anything.

[af_1132]

Is your car daily driven? Are you looking for the closest thing to OE replacement?

I would not get either of these. The first one is all aluminum, according to the listing, so I don't see how it can be dampened. I would never recommend a crank pulley that is not dampened for street use on the daily. The second one looks to be dampened, but it's a Doorman, and if their exhaust manifold studs can break, then so might their harmonic balancer remans.

Have you tried Majestic Honda yet? hondaautomotiveparts.com part # 13810-PT1-003

[93redcb7]

Is your car daily driven? Are you looking for the closest thing to OE replacement?

I would not get either of these. The first one is all aluminum, according to the listing, so I don't see how it can be dampened. I would never recommend a crank pulley that is not dampened for street use on the daily. The second one looks to be dampened, but it's a Doorman, and if their exhaust manifold studs can break, then so might their harmonic balancer remans.

Have you tried Majestic Honda yet? hondaautomotiveparts.com part # 13810-PT1-003

Yes daily driven
Majestic wants 150$
I'm having the whole rotating assembly balanced so idk if that makes a difference on the dampening, since it shouldn't have as much vibration, though I did a balance shaft delete also

[av6g6]

For piece of mind, I'd never risk an undampned crank pulley. The gains just aren't worth it. If you want a little lighter rotating assembly go with the flywheel side.

[93redcb7]

I guess if you type in harmonic balancer in ebay... A lot more pop up a ton of these have been sold, and seems to have good seller review so I'm guessing they should be good? And for information what does dampening really do?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/251167383208?nav=SEARCH

[av6g6]

well, seeing as I haven't had my cb long but do have experience with miatas, a solid crank pulley on a Miata will literally obliterate the oil pump due to harmonics (lol duh) and this is well documented. As far as the Cb goes I haven't personally seen any ill effects.

[93redcb7]

well, seeing as I haven't had my cb long but do have experience with miatas, a solid crank pulley on a Miata will literally obliterate the oil pump due to harmonics (lol duh) and this is well documented. As far as the Cb goes I haven't personally seen any ill effects.

Yea I guess I'll go the safe route and just get that 40$ one and call it good, also will be installing a lightweight flywheel 9lb clutchmasters aluminum one

[johnl]

Yes daily driven
Majestic wants 150$
I'm having the whole rotating assembly balanced so idk if that makes a difference on the dampening, since it shouldn't have as much vibration, though I did a balance shaft delete also

Never delete the harmonic damper. The higher the rpm the engine sees the more important the damper is, so it's even more necessary on a race engine than a road engine. That all aluminium pulley is only that, a pulley, it has no damper attached to it. It might be OK on a car only driven to the shops and back at low rpm, but if you rev the motor hard it may eventually cause crank failure.

Note that having the rotating and reciprocating engine parts 'balanced' has no affect at all on the 'secondary imbalance' that is inescapably inherent in piston engines. There is nothing that can be done to eliminate or even lessen the inherent secondary imbalance (as opposed to any primary imbalance, which is what 'balancing' addresses), because it's caused by the geometry of the piston rising and falling and the asymmetrical angularity of the crank throws as the pistons rise and fall. Google 'engine secondary imbalance' and you should find plenty of information to confuse you...

The best that can be done is to use a harmonic balancer on the front of the crank (or a solid mass of much greater mass than a rubber mounted harmonic balancer), which (as the name implies) dampens harmonic oscillations in the crank.

These oscillations cause the crankshaft to elastically twist along it's length, and have a natural frequency at which the flexing of the crank is exited to a point at which it can become seriously stressed. The damper doesn't eliminate the engine imbalance, but does help to lessen the self reinforcing harmonics that make the effects of the imbalance much worse.

Note also that the 'balance shafts' don't lessen the secondary imbalance (not even a little bit). All they do is to counteract (i.e. mask) the vibrations caused by the secondary imbalance. The vibration caused by secondary imbalance will still exist (at the crankshaft), but the 'balance shafts' create another vibration that acts in opposite phase to the vibration created by secondary imbalance. The net effect is that apparent vibration is lessened 'externally' to the crankshaft, so less vibration will be evident at the engine block (all the balance shafts do is make the engine feel smoother than it actually is, stress on the crankshaft doesn't change when balance shafts are used...).

You won't do better than the Honda factory harmonic balancer. But, they can and do fail eventually. Heat eventually causes the rubber insert to degrade and crack. The heat is to some degree the ambient engine bay heat, but more so the heat generated internally within the rubber insert as the rubber deflects in use. At higher rpm the forces involved are quite 'energetic', and the rubber does flex quite significantly (and more so the higher the rpm). As the rubber flexes it gets significantly hot, and heat is rubbers' main enemy.

Engines that see higher rpm a lot should have the harmonic balancer at least inspected reasonably regularly (looking for cracks in the rubber insert), and many race teams consider the harmonic balancer to be a 'lifed' item, i.e. after X hours use they replace it, regardless of how it may look.

[93redcb7]

Never delete the harmonic damper. The higher the rpm the engine sees the more important the damper is, so it's even more necessary on a race engine than a road engine. That all aluminium pulley is only that, a pulley, it has no damper attached to it. It might be OK on a car only driven to the shops and back at low rpm, but if you rev the motor hard it may eventually cause crank failure.

Note that having the rotating and reciprocating engine parts 'balanced' has no affect at all on the 'secondary imbalance' that is inescapably inherent in piston engines. There is nothing that can be done to eliminate or even lessen the inherent secondary imbalance (as opposed to any primary imbalance, which is what 'balancing' addresses), because it's caused by the geometry of the piston rising and falling and the asymmetrical angularity of the crank throws as the pistons rise and fall. Google 'engine secondary imbalance' and you should find plenty of information to confuse you...

The best that can be done is to use a harmonic balancer on the front of the crank (or a solid mass of much greater mass than a rubber mounted harmonic balancer), which (as the name implies) dampens harmonic oscillations in the crank.

These oscillations cause the crankshaft to elastically twist along it's length, and have a natural frequency at which the flexing of the crank is exited to a point at which it can become seriously stressed. The damper doesn't eliminate the engine imbalance, but does help to lessen the self reinforcing harmonics that make the effects of the imbalance much worse.

Note also that the 'balance shafts' don't lessen the secondary imbalance (not even a little bit). All they do is to counteract (i.e. mask) the vibrations caused by the secondary imbalance. The vibration caused by secondary imbalance will still exist (at the crankshaft), but the 'balance shafts' create another vibration that acts in opposite phase to the vibration created by secondary imbalance. The net effect is that apparent vibration is lessened 'externally' to the crankshaft, so less vibration will be evident at the engine block (all the balance shafts do is make the engine feel smoother than it actually is, stress on the crankshaft doesn't change when balance shafts are used...).

You won't do better than the Honda factory harmonic balancer. But, they can and do fail eventually. Heat eventually causes the rubber insert to degrade and crack. The heat is to some degree the ambient engine bay heat, but more so the heat generated internally within the rubber insert as the rubber deflects in use. At higher rpm the forces involved are quite 'energetic', and the rubber does flex quite significantly (and more so the higher the rpm). As the rubber flexes it gets significantly hot, and heat is rubbers' main enemy.

Engines that see higher rpm a lot should have the harmonic balancer at least inspected reasonably regularly (looking for cracks in the rubber insert), and many race teams consider the harmonic balancer to be a 'lifed' item, i.e. after X hours use they replace it, regardless of how it may look.

Now that is some information,thanks http://m.ebay.com/itm/251167383208?nav=SEARCH
How does this one look though? It looks the same as the stock one