Hazards & Alternator Output

[F22Chris]

This is just a general question, and all the CB's I've owned all do this so I'm sure it's super common.

When I turn the hazards on, the idle goes up and down as the lights blink.

I understand why it does this, but I was wondering if there's a way to make it not. Everything functions fine, it's just annoying.

I've also replaced the alternator twice, and for both units I got an idle reading of 13.4-13.8V. When I'm up in the RPM it goes up to around 14-14.2V, and when the car isn't running but on, reads normal at 12V[battery]. Is this 13V idle reading normal? I was under the impression that 14-14.3 was normal at idle. Thanks guys

[Kev1990]

Hmm its funny that you mention the hazards and rpm change. Is your rpms change noticeable? Mine does it but it but barely changes the rpms if any and as far as I know last I knew I was getting 14.4 at idle ill check it tomorrow to confirm that for you. When and what brand alternator did you use last time it was changed? I noticed a difference in OEM alternators vs aftermarket though OEM ones handle the electrical load much better. Not hating on your job if your still employed at Autozone but DO NOT BUY ALTERNATORS FROM AUTOZONE horribly horribly weak and prone to quickly fail I think I've went through 8 of their alternators in one year mind you I properly install them to torque specs too made sure of it. It got to the point I was changing mine out so often I had them test em right off the shelf and they were testing bad! Let me know I really wanna know now for my passion of disliking Autozone alternators LOL.

[F22Chris]

Hell no I don't work there anymore, they treat people like shit there man! The store manager stole 100 from the register and wrote me up for it, so I old the dm and got the fuck out. And the only part on my car that's autozone is the battery. It's a denso alternator. And no it's like a super small change but it's really noticeable in sound and vibrations.

[Kev1990]

Hmm so you got a Denso alternator I'm going to go outside and test mine within the hour. Is it a remanufactured Denso? Dam sounds like AutoZone in your area sucks to work at. What's a bit odd all of the Autozone alternator failures I had another cb7 I got it came with a Autozone battery and it cranks strong even on the coldest days where my Advance auto battery doesn't hold a charge real well overnight and takes a little longer to start up and both batteries are within 6 months of age but I noticed on the Advance Auto battery it has a longer reserve time. Where did you purchase your Denso alternator BTW?

[sonikaccord]

The only ways I think you could stop it would be to add some capacitors. That power has to come from somewhere though

[Kev1990]

OK I just tested my alternator at idle it's 14.2 then goes up to 14.2-14.4 when revving my idle sits exactly at 750 rpms with no electrical load this is on my 90. I noticed mine when I put on the hazards it doesn't happen like it used to when I had a weak alternator. Witch sounds like your alternator is starting to get weak and how old is it? Try this connect your meter to the terminals then turn on the high beams, heater and rear defrost and see what the alternator reads.

[F22Chris]

Hmm so you got a Denso alternator I'm going to go outside and test mine within the hour. Is it a remanufactured Denso? Dam sounds like AutoZone in your area sucks to work at. What's a bit odd all of the Autozone alternator failures I had another cb7 I got it came with a Autozone battery and it cranks strong even on the coldest days where my Advance auto battery doesn't hold a charge real well overnight and takes a little longer to start up and both batteries are within 6 months of age but I noticed on the Advance Auto battery it has a longer reserve time. Where did you purchase your Denso alternator BTW?

I got the remanned one off prtsgek for like $100. And yeah it did suck working there, but all AutoZones are like that I'm sure. I work part time at O'Reilly's now, and I'm in school for automotive technology. This is my first semester and I'm taking my core classes right now so don't hate . I also installed it to torque specs both times 'cause that's just good practice, and I hate doing shit twice. I've boiled it down to a weak alternator though, my lights even dim when I hit the brakes at night. Mad annoying.

Sonik, you mean like putting capacitors on like for LED signals or something to make it so they don't blink fast or what?

[Kev1990]

It does sound like its a weak and failing alternator but to be sure please try checking the voltage when the high beams, heater and defroster is on and tell me the voltage.

[Raf99]

You should have a manual for your car. It states the voltage with the car off should be 12V+ and at idle or rev 14.2-14.4. You are not getting this at idle so I would start here. The issue is not the alt but probably the old wiring in the car (grounds).

Are you testing the voltage right off the ALT bolt at idle? Because this should give you a 14.2-14.4 as it's the output voltage given by the alternator. I'm guessing the voltage you got was not from this bolt but maybe the other end of the wire or at the battery.

[sonikaccord]

Nah, capacitors for stiffening up the voltage. But that's if everything else tests fine. I would definitely check the chassis and engine grounds to make sure they are tight and clean

[F22Chris]

You should have a manual for your car. It states the voltage with the car off should be 12V+ and at idle or rev 14.2-14.4. You are not getting this at idle so I would start here. The issue is not the alt but probably the old wiring in the car (grounds).

Are you testing the voltage right off the ALT bolt at idle? Because this should give you a 14.2-14.4 as it's the output voltage given by the alternator. I'm guessing the voltage you got was not from this bolt but maybe the other end of the wire or at the battery.

Correct, I tested from the battery. Also from watching my volt meter gauge in the car, this is how I found out in the first place that I was below 14.x. I will test it directly from the alternator tomorrow as I am in school right now, and when I go home, have to feed 12 kids so I'll be busy. [I live at a boarding school] I'll get back at this asap, thank you for the directional push guys.

[Raf99]

12 kids... shivers.

Test at the ALT. Remember to be safe, no long sleeved shirts, watch out for the belt, use a proper ground. Best of luck.

[F22Chris]

12 kids... shivers.

Test at the ALT. Remember to be safe, no long sleeved shirts, watch out for the belt, use a proper ground. Best of luck.

Use to be 17. Go through like 10lbs of meat a night 'cause they're all growing high school kids. They're pretty good kids though, very smart.

On topic, I used my 1hr15min break at school to test the voltage.

I did two tests to make sure, and it seems more of a ground issue now. I tested at normal idle, and again with lights, high beams, and hazards on.

From battery:
Idle = 13.6-13.8V
Under load = 13.4-13.68V

From alternator:
Idle = 14.1-14.25V
Under load = 14-14.2V

So I shall proceed to check grounds and electrical connection corrosion. Is there a block/chassis ground in particular that I should be getting at? Thanks again!

[F22Chris]

I'm just going to bump this instead of starting a new thread.

I'm going to clean my grounds. I'm trying to figure out where all the grounds are that I should get at. I know the one from the valve cover, power steering bracket, the battery to the block or tranny I can't remember off the top of my head, and the thermostat if I'm not mistaken. Are there any other major ones I'm missing?

I Googled it and got a bunch of random shit with Koni Ground Control set-ups.

Thanks

[sonikaccord]

And the battery neg to chassis. Google "car audio big 3"

"...the battery ground to chassis wire, the chassis to engine block wire, and the alternator plus to battery plus wire. This increases your electrical system's current flow capability, ensuring a more consistent voltage under varying demand conditions."