Originally posted by CornDog
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Throttle Seems Like it is getting Hung Up?
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Originally posted by fleetw00d View PostThere is SUPPOSED to be some slack in the cable. According to the OEM service manual, with the throttle completely closed, there should be 0.39 - 0.47 inches of deflection of the throttle cable near the throttle linkage (cable pulley on the throttle body).Keep Pushing..
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Don't know if this will help any, but might help rule out a couple things. Why don't you disconnect the throttle cable and then with the car running "blip" the throttle by hand. If it acts normal then there is something messing up before the throttle body, cable or pedal assembly, but if it still gets hung up you will at least know it has nothing to do with the cable.
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Originally posted by thumping_accord View PostDon't know if this will help any, but might help rule out a couple things. Why don't you disconnect the throttle cable and then with the car running "blip" the throttle by hand. If it acts normal then there is something messing up before the throttle body, cable or pedal assembly, but if it still gets hung up you will at least know it has nothing to do with the cable.
Also, I was thinking about the MAP sensor..I need to check the readings on that as well just to be sure.Keep Pushing..
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So weird because it has acted & revved the same with my original Throttle Body that came with the car as well as the current one installed, which was from a donor car my buddy is letting me pull parts off of. This leads me to believe the TPS should be okay.
MAP Sensor?
I have a perfect idle.
hmmmm....all after doing my motor mounts!Keep Pushing..
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Originally posted by G. Wiffington View PostI actually checked the vacuum hose for the brake booster though now that I think about it..hmm.. Would that really have an effect on the throttle becoming stuck?
Also have you checked your vacuum lines to the EGR? You may have disconnected this line when you did the motor mounts. If its on the wrong port it may stay wide open all the time which act as another vacuum leak. I believe its supposed to run to the black box mounted to the firewall where there is a vacuum switch that controls it.Last edited by CornDog; 08-26-2016, 10:17 PM.
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Originally posted by h22sparkle View PostCheck for vacuum leaks and also if the wire is actually making connection with the sensor at different positions on the throttleKeep Pushing..
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Originally posted by CornDog View PostNot the hose, the diaphragm in the booster is what would likely be bad. If its damaged it will allow air into the intake (vacuum leak) bypassing the throttle body. Plug it off to check it.
Also have you checked your vacuum lines to the EGR? You may have disconnected this line when you did the motor mounts. If its on the wrong port it may stay wide open all the time which act as another vacuum leak. I believe its supposed to run to the black box mounted to the firewall where there is a vacuum switch that controls it.Keep Pushing..
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Problem Solved
HELLO PEOPLE..
I know this thread doesn't seem like much but the problem I was having was haunting me for months!!
It is very hard to explain what the issue was but here I go..
It was an issue where at certain RPMs my throttle would seem to stick for a second then let off the throttle & return to normal. For example, if I were to be casually cruising at 35MPH in 5th gear the throttle would get hung up at around 1,500-1,900 RPMs. Also, another example would be if I was pulling out of a parking space & "creeping" in first gear, the throttle would shoot up & the whole car would jerk back & forth as if the ECU was receiving a signal to blip the throttle or something. I could hear my short ram sucking in air sometimes as well.
Well, yesterday I was driving to work (on Historic Tags in Maryland, yeah I did that so what!!) anyway..I was just doing some routine check ups under the hood. I checked the Clutch Master Cylinder reservoir & noticed it was extremely low. I keep some fluid in my trunk just in case, so I filled it up just to make sure I was okay for my ride home from work. I got back inside the car & just for shits & giggles I glanced at where the clutch pedal is located & sure enough I see clutch fluid leaking from the CMC inside my car!
This to me meant the Clutch Master Cylinder was obviously failing.
I went to Autozone & bought a Durlast CMC which does not include a reservoir or a new hose. I had to purchase a new hose which connects from the reservoir to the actual cylinder & rod part of the CMC.
Anyway.....after installing the Clutch Master Cylinder & bleeding the system I went for a test drive & what do you know? MY CB7 IS FINALLY DRIVING NORMAL AGAIN!
I am not sure on how the Clutch Master Cylinder could have caused this but hey, my car is back to normal!
If anyone has any idea of how the Clutch Master Cylinder would have an affect on the throttle please chime in on this thread!! I love learning..especially about cars.
Thanks to everyone who commented on this thread & gave their opinions & ideas!!!
PEACE!Keep Pushing..
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Crazy ending!YEP. I AM Canadian.
1990 Accord EX 220,000 KM. Essentially stock with 15" alloys and chin spoiler added. K&N filter and Bosch plugs. ICE COLD A/C which I love!
1992 white EX 4 dr, 5 spd. (602,000 Kms and I JUST RETIRED IT. SO SAD!) DEC 9TH, 2005 - MAY 31, 2012. I added 229,000 kms to it. Great car!
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