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    REQUEST: Camshaft installation

    I know a few people that want to install cams, and are afraid to try themselves. I've heard about $200 shop quotes (certainly not worth it for a $100 regrind!)

    So, if anyone could create a DIY for a camshaft installation... WITH pics, it would be awesome! I know those that know how to do this say it's easy, but those who don't know are a little hesitant. It's not a very good thing to mess up!

    Hell, I have a 272 regrind sitting in my car waiting to go in... either in my car or 93twodoorLX's car...
    Last edited by deevergote; 06-17-2005, 03:42 PM.







    #2
    I actually did mine right out of the chilton manual. It was actually really easy and straight forward. The only thing i had trouble with was getting the timing right but if you use white out on the cam gear before you slide the belt off it makes this problem non existant. I think theres a cb7 manual on this site isnt there?

    :edit: i know thats not what you asked for but i figure if you have the money fo ra regrind you have enough to go buy a manual. (which you should have anyways)


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      #3
      White out and a crowbar are your friends when it comes to the camshaft.
      -Jay

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        #4
        Oh yeah also you'll need a new valve cover gasket set, cam seal. Also dont forget to mark the distributer placing either before removing. Bluejayde, what did you use the crowbar for?


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          #5
          Yeah, I have a Chilton's, and I bought a Haynes for 93twodoorLX last Christmas, so we're covered there It's just easier for some to see actual pics of the process.

          I changed my valve cover on my H22 a few months back, and I just reused the gasket. No problems yet! The cam seal is a must though, isn't it?


          My major question with the cam is getting it in and out. Once everything is disassembled, does it just slide out? I'm assuming you have to set #1 at TDC or something, right? Also, slathering the shaft with lube is right as well, isn't it (man that sounds dirty! )






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            #6
            I always try to replace gaskets while im in there because its basically a preventative maintanance issue. Do it now and you dont have to worry about it later. Also the cam doesnt slide out it actually will lift straight up after you have removed the rocker assembly. Which reminds me only loosen the necesary bolts to lift the assembly out. DO NOT remove the bolts from the assembly or your going to have one hell of a mess when the whole thing falls apart on you. Also its always easier to always set the motor at TDC ( which can be done using a socket on the crank pulley. there is a timing indicator right under nieth the block marking on the front of the engine. You have to pull out a little black plug and youll see the timing indicator in there.) Since everything is based off of TDC it just makes sense to do it that way. Also the cam seal is definatly a must. Take as much time and care as possible with the seal or youll end up with oil in your timing cover and it will eventually lead to early timiing belt replacement. Assembly lube is a MUST. Youll be shooting yourself in the foot with out it and reduce the longevity of the camshaft. The motor runs like shit when you start it up because its trying the best it can to adjust the A/F ratio and cope with the new cam. Reset your ECU and make sure ALL of your vacumm leaks are taken care of or your car wont stay running because of the lower vacumm caused by the shittier idle of the cam. Take your time and be easy on her for a while till your car adjusts and the cam is broken in. Another thing that is a MUST take your time on the valve lash adjustmant. I recomment going back in and adjusting them after a couple weeks depending on how much/ hard your drive.


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              #7
              ^^^Good post, all good recommendations. I prefer sticking a coat hanger in to find TDC on the engine if the timing belt is not attached. If it is, just turn on the pulley bolt until the UP mark on the cam gear is pointing up and the marks on the sides line up with the surface of the head.

              I use a crowbar to stick into the slot where the dizzy connects to the camshaft to hold it still for easy removal of the cam gear bolt(requires two people).
              -Jay

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                #8
                Cool, thanks guys! That helps a lot... lots of stuff I never would've thought of!

                As far as valve lash adjustment, I'm totally clueless there...






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                  #9
                  http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=618786&page=1

                  Its not as hard as it could be. On the h22, I would suggest getting ahold of one of the special tools, or making your own. You wont be able to do it with separate tools since there is not enough room to mess around in there.

                  When removing the rocker assy. make sure to loosen/tighten bolts in order. and only a litte at a time. (the order is found in a haynes/helms)

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                    #10
                    let me have the 272 and install it and ill make a DIY.
                    92 DA9 // 93 D21 4x4 // 92 CB7

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                      #11
                      I'm glad my whiteout trick is living on... lol...

                      A good idea is to put some clear nail polish over it so it doesn't wipe off easily...

                      otherwise just do what everyone said... twist the crank pulley bolt until you hit TDC on #1, and start loosening things in the order the manual gives you... I'd suggest loosening the cam sprocket bolt while the T belt is still on... makes life easier... and there you go... use some assembly lube on everything... lobes and journal surfaces... reinstall the reverse of disassembly and crank her up and rev to 2500-3500 for 15-20 minutes at least...

                      and do the dogleg peelout in the driveway and enjoy ripping on her up until you hit the fuel cut...
                      RIP Lifsatrip7

                      ...

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by ZigenBallZ
                        I'm glad my whiteout trick is living on... lol...

                        A good idea is to put some clear nail polish over it so it doesn't wipe off easily...

                        otherwise just do what everyone said... twist the crank pulley bolt until you hit TDC on #1, and start loosening things in the order the manual gives you... I'd suggest loosening the cam sprocket bolt while the T belt is still on... makes life easier... and there you go... use some assembly lube on everything... lobes and journal surfaces... reinstall the reverse of disassembly and crank her up and rev to 2500-3500 for 15-20 minutes at least...

                        and do the dogleg peelout in the driveway and enjoy ripping on her up until you hit the fuel cut...
                        Does the 272 regrind help that much?

                        Caleb
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                        Updated!!! --> My official turbo progress thread

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