Im about to change my CV boots and I heard I have whole lotta work ahead. Is there anything (tool, hardware etc.) I should get to make this job a little easier? Thanks
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fuck that fork up the extra 40 bucks for the core exchange why just change the boot when itll just start clicking at 1 point in time then you have to go in there again i rather put another one in from wherever you get a new one at trade your old shit in and get a rebuilt one swap it in and forget about it.
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Yeah, I just replaced the whole half-shaft when my outer CV boot was ripped. Only cost $40 (after you deduct the core exchange), and it's supposedly a lot easier. Make sure you either have (a) a really large heavy-duty breaker bar, or preferably (b) a nice set of air tools, to get the big hub nut off with (I think it's 106 or 110mm, can't remember), because it's torqued with around 150 ft-lbs according to the Haynes manual, so it's a pain to get off. Aside from that, everything oughta go pretty smoothly. Good luck!
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boot replacement is absolutely pointless, and is more work than getting a whole new axle. why pull it out and redo a boot and put a dying axle back in instead of skipping a step and getting a whole new thing for a few bucks more...
anyway, ive been driving on broken boots on both sides for almost 20k miles now without a problem haha... so if they tear ull have at least a little bit of time.
about the actual work, a couple wrenches and a ratchet set is all u need to do most of the work, its just a 14mm bolt, a 17mm nut and bolt, and a 17mm ball joint which doesnt require any special tools better than a hammer... the biggest problem youll run into is getting the large nut off the end of the axle, ull need a 36mm socket and the largest breaker bar you can find. unstake it (unbend the tab on the side of it) and find any wya possible to put as much force onto it to get it off. which could require you jumping up and down on the bar, or getting a 4 foot extension pole to put on the bar to get more leverage...
check this out for some help taking em out... heres the post you need: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showpost...84&postcount=6 which came from this thread: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...&threadid=8849Last edited by cp[mike]; 12-11-2005, 02:15 PM.
- 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
- 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
- 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
Current cars:
- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
- 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion
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Well if you have an impact it helps quite a bit. You need a hammer and hit the side of the arm. DO NOT HIT THE BOLT. As it will mushroom it out.
The New-ish Ride
My old Ride
Hear my Vtak!!!
MK3 Member #3
I piss off people for fun.
IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1
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Originally posted by DruBa11zIm about to change my CV boots and I heard I have whole lotta work ahead. Is there anything (tool, hardware etc.) I should get to make this job a little easier? Thanks
Complete axles.2003 Maxima SE Titanium Edition
Polished Titanium ext, heated black leather int, heated leather steering wheel, HIDs, 255bhp, 6 speed, 15% tint.
1993 Suzuki GSX1100F 136bhp
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Originally posted by AccordlxI have Question.. My boot is not torn nor see grease leaking out but my axel click reall bad.. btw how can i know which axel is bad?
If you hear your axle clicking its time to replace it. You prob gotta run your hand around it and feel for it. And as everyone mentioned buy a complete new axle. The boot is a waste of time and its a messy job. We did my friends Maxima. It worked decent then a week or 2 later it came apart since one of the clamps broke. So yea replace the axle its easier and saves work.
The New-ish Ride
My old Ride
Hear my Vtak!!!
MK3 Member #3
I piss off people for fun.
IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1
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fairly easy it just takes some time to do it... do the complete axel boots are a waste of time and money ... 36mm is the axel nut size, also if you need new rotors and brakes now is the time to do it since we have to remove the knuckle assembly to change our rotors. ummm also a dead blow mallet comes in handy when tapping the axel back into the tranny makes sure it seats completly. to get the axel out a pry bar works better than a screwdriver. um check your seals also since now is the best time to do it. i think thats about all can say on the matter
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Back in 1998, with around 90,000 miles on my accord, I noticed one of my boots cracked. Luckily, I caught this before any significant damage to the joint was done.
I did things the hard way. I bought the boot kit with grease, clips, and axle nuts from the dealer. I took both axles completely apart inner and outer. I got all the old grease out using paint thinner, till there was no dirt or anything left. Put the new grease in and everything back together. Well, 140,000 miles and 7.5 years later I have the same axles rollin with no problems and no noises. The boots I replaced way back then havn't cracked on me yet.
Anyhow, it was more work, but I enjoyed it. Do what you want with your car.
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Axels
Where did you guys get the axels for $40 after the core return? Rock auto? that is the cheapest i have found so far $50 after the core return. They are Here
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