Mid-Engine RWD Coupe Proposal

[HenRoc]

Is this going to be a daily driver or a strip car?

[ACCLUDE91]

TRACK ONLY! It won't even have doors! lol

[HenRoc]

TRACK ONLY! It won't even have doors! lol

Oh man I just thought of something too.

That would be sick if you can use an NSX engine ha.

What would become of the front half?

[ACCLUDE91]

That was one of the ideas I tossed around for the 1st Accord. My thing now is going turbo and the low compression F22B1 block/bottom end and the high flowing H22 head is PERFECT for my intentions plus I already have all the motor parts and about 90% of the turbo parts so I'm definitely going F/H frankenstein turbo!

[DeathFromAbove]

yeah i had been thinking nsx engine for a while....but at some point costs get ridiculous....

[ACCLUDE91]

here's a comparison...

This is the 3rd Accord after I bought it, pulled the motor and converted it back to stock:



And here it is after 3 years, about $500 in parts, and a lot of personal labor:



You never really realize how much things can change if you just put the time in. I didn't spend a lot, but it looks like a completely different car. This kinda blew my mind seeing them side by side

Can't wait to add a RWD comparrison pic to the ones above to really show the changes over the years!

[psyphre]

Here's a pic of my old H22 and the first H22/H23 frankenstein motor ever sittin side by side! Anyone remember when I first posted the frankestein motor idea on this site that almost everyone talked mad shit about havin a H23 block with Type-S internals, and a H22 head with Skunk2 cams and other goodies? Said it was junk and would never run right. Now there's several of them and everyones real happy with the setup. So I don't care what anyone says. If I want to do it, I WILL DO IT NO MATTER WHAT YOU SAY!



This RWD project is being done on my 3rd Accord

I recently bought a 4th Accord too but I might not get it because of a title issue. We'll see

ah, the memories, good stuff

So if this is true where were you in 1993?

[ACCLUDE91]

So if this is true where were you in 1993?

let me guess....you built the first one in 93

comments, questions, and suggestions are always welcome.....but annoying assholes are not!



guess what I went and picked up today.............




I can't believe I forgot about this stuff! Seriously, how do you forget that you have the FULL front & rear suspension & crossmembers for a car Must be all those drugs I did in my younger days. There's no hope in dope kids lol!

[cp[mike]]

hopefully you have the lock keys for those lugnuts

[ACCLUDE91]

Yeah I've got the keys for 'em - a big fuckin drill and a big fuckin drill bit

I also got a hood, fenders, headlights, front & rear bumpers, front subframe, sunroof assy, and quite a few other things that I forgot about. I've basically got enough to rebuild the front half of a CB and then some!


I've got enough to keep me busy for a little while. Here's what I'm gonna do for now:

1. Remove wheels from the front sus assy (put new wheel studs back in afterwards cause I'm gonna destroy them in the process)
2. Make a cheap mount out of metal plates and some metal bars for the upper A-arm and strut to mount to so that it sits like it was bolted into a car.
3. Take some serious measurements since I will have tons of room to measure all aspects of it
4. Go ahead and pull the motor/trans out of the car and part out what I don't need, but keep the front sus. intact incase I need to measure anything.
5. Go ahead and finnish stripping the interior out completely
6. Measure the rear frame rail of the car so I know how the suspension and motor cradle need to be mounted, what needs to be cut, and where
7. Make the motor cradle and mount the sus. to it.
8. Use a dummy block/trans and mount them in the craddle so that I have a mock-up setup
9. Cut the rear half of the car off and bolt in a mock-up tubular frame so that I can mount the mock-up motor cradle and sus.
10. Take measurements of axle angles, suspension alignment, frame alignment and other vital aspects and make adjustments as needed
11. Make the final rear frame and interior roll cage and weld it in
12. Make the final motor cradle and bolt it in to the tubular frame

This is a HUGE step in making this happen and the vital aspects of the rear half will be done. I have all the parts and equipment to do this much so far. and once I get this far, there's no turning back

[MidGa93EX]

I spy a Ranger bed and an unlucky F-150.......
Are you a Ford-n-Honda kinda guy too???

God, I'm a sad person

Anyways, what kind of wheels are those?

[ACCLUDE91]

I'm not really a big Ford guy, but I do appreciate them for certain reasons. My g/f's dad has 7 Rangers (two are gettin 2.3L turbo setups , one is a track truck , and the rest are daily drivers or parts cars). I'm also borrowing one of the Rangers as my daily driver for the time being.


As for the F150, me and a buddy hit a powerline pole at over 50mph and flipped it. It was quite the rollercoaster ride!







The wheels are old ICW 16"s. They are super light and in overall great condition. Still got good Kumho Ecsta Supra tires on 'em too (the originals, before they changed the design). Might sell them, might use them, or might junk them. We'll see how badly they get mangled when I drill the lugs out


but enough of the stuff.....anyone have comments or suggestions on the list of work that I will be starting here shortly?

[501accord]

why do you have to drill them out?

[ACCLUDE91]

They have shitty ass, weak, soft aluminum heads that are all stripped out in the center so the lug key doesn't fit anymore. Plus they're pretty seized to the studs so even if I could get the key on there solid, they'd end up stripping even worse. They were seized on there about 4 years ago so I can only imagine how bad they are now. I'd rather go ahead an drill them out instead of wasting my time trying to unscrew them. If you got any other ideas, I'm open for suggestions. As it stands, I'll be drilling them out soon.

[cp[mike]]

can you get to the heads of the studs from behind and grind/cut them off? then you could hammer the studs out from the back and the rims wont be hurt, and you can still put new studs in...