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    changing lower balljoints

    Well everyone Im about to change my lower balljoint tommorrow has anyone done this on their own and if so what tool/tools do i need to remove it from the hub?

    #2
    to remove it from the hub, you need to take the snap ring out, the just hit it with a big hammer and it should come right out,

    now putting on is another story, take it to a machine shop to get it pressed in with no damage to it, i would not recommend that you hammer the new one in
    Members Ride

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      #3
      ^^^^^^ yeah they come out but dont like going in. its like trying to out a cv joint back onto in axle. very little fun. im sure a local alignment shop has the goodies to put it on for you

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        #4
        Yo Mike just pony up the dough and let the shop do it... there's too much stuff to fuck up... brakes... the joints themselves... I'm telling you, it's better to let the shop do it, unless you know how to bleed brakes. You're gonna pay the same to get a tool to press them in anyway


        Originally posted by lordoja
        im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

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          #5
          Dude a machine shop will press them in for around $20 - $30 bucks. The rest is DIY.

          Black Housing DIY 1991 Wagon Morimoto Retrofit
          JDM One-Piece Headlight Lens Repair

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            #6
            Like any job, it's a matter of if you have the right tools for the job. If you don't, get the installation done by shop.

            There are a few options if you have these tools. Removing can be done by removing snap-ring, then removing part of boot to get a large socket or cup on the base of the joint itself, then hit it out with large hammer. I personally like putting the knuckle in a vise to hold it, then hammering it out. That's the easy part.

            Installation:

            1) Large C-clamp (ball-joint remover/installer type) with cup and pusher combo and run the C-clamp down, pressing the joint in.

            2) If you have a large enough vise with a cup and pusher combo, you can use the vise itself to press in the joint. You will probably need two people for this, one to hold the knuckle assembly in place and the other to line up the cup & pusher.

            If you don't understand any of this, there is always option # 3.

            3) Go to shop

            HondaFan81 For Sale Parts (LOW PRICES ON EVERYTHING)

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              #7
              to put it back in all me and my dad had to do is put a piece of wood on top of the blot joint and gently bang on it with a hammer. as long as it goes in straight you will have no problem with it.
              Last edited by alb_accord; 03-16-2007, 09:34 AM.
              are we there yet are we there yet are we there yet

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                #8
                you will need to get a star socket tool to remove the brake plating since if you use the C clamp/ ball joint press tool you won't have enough room to remove it and or press it back in. and also when you get new ball joints from honda THEY DO NOT COME WITH LOCKING PINS. ONLY EBAY SHIT COMES WITH THAT. OEM WOULD COST AROUND 30 bucks. other then that thats about it. NO need to bleed brakes just slide it back in basically remove the caliper (both bolts and slide it out) once that is done take the 36mm bolt and take out the axle bolt. remove top ball joint bolt castle nut (use air gune since ball joint might be moving) remove lower castle nut (17mm) after that take spindle down take off plating as mentions above with star bolts. then you have 3 screws you have to take out ( use a vise grip on the screws and clamp it on then use a hammer to move it a little so don't use a screwdriver until it starts to move since soo much rust/whatever. after that take ball joint tool and remove ball joint. there is a pin on the old balljoint so take that out. after that work backwards from above. basically there ya go a HOW TO DIY with no pics
                either kill it or drift it...

                2002 Toyota Tundra V8

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                  #9
                  Okay thanks for the support everyone imma just take it to the shop It looks like I wont have any time. Because straigth from there i gotta get he cars painted and with all this overtime im gettin imma just send it to a shop. Its like everytime i wanna get something done on this car something pops up.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by blackcb7
                    to remove it from the hub, you need to take the snap ring out, the just hit it with a big hammer and it should come right out,

                    now putting on is another story, take it to a machine shop to get it pressed in with no damage to it, i would not recommend that you hammer the new one in

                    hmm i had the other way around. took me like 3 guys and 3 hours to bang on it to get it out. then finally i decided to use a torch and hit it out. popped out in 5 min. and getting it in was easy, use a board and tap it in then put the knucle on the control arm and tighten it down.

                    but i heard somewhere too much banging around and torching can mess up ur wheel bearings
                    1991 White Accord LX 5-speed aka Lil' Red

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                      #11
                      mine were easy, i popped the old ones out, then lined up the new one, placed a 2.4 over it, and hammered it in, no damage, no cost, perfect fit

                      JDMRIDES.ca

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by trah
                        you will need to get a star socket tool to remove the brake plating since if you use the C clamp/ ball joint press tool you won't have enough room to remove it and or press it back in...

                        This is not true. There are c-clamp adapters made specificlly for the Accord.
                        FS: BNIB MFactory FD $650, PM me.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by cb7-R
                          This is not true. There are c-clamp adapters made specificlly for the Accord.
                          And it is not easy to find c-clamp adapters made specifically for the accord. And it is not cheap.The one that autozone rent is to big for our accord.

                          In the end i use 3 lb. hammer to take it out. I have done this twice. It took me 10 minutes to take out the balljoint from the hub. Please be aware not to break the wheel bearing. Just aim the hit outward not inward. Otherwise it will hit the wheel bearing.

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                            #14
                            ok heres what your gonna do get yourself some map gas or a propane tourch heat the hub where the old ball joint is pull the old snapring hit it with a small hammer will come out easy put the new ball joints in the freezer while your doing this so they shrink a small amount. now that the old one is out heat the hub again and slid the new one in tap it lightly with a deadblow and there will be no damage to the new balljoint put the new snap ring on and reassemble.

                            this was a diy a long time ago search it down there is no point to take it to a machine shop have the car down for a day and waste more money both sides together take about 45 minutes with hand tools

                            the build and demise
                            buy stuff i want a new car

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                              #15
                              I like your thinking!!!


                              "You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
                              "the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
                              "Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland

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