HELP! Rad Fan Off When Ignition On...Boiling

[lokuputha]

dude, you need a thermostat then. upper hose hot and lower hose cald means t stat not operating as it should. replace the thermostat man. And I am no kid off the street. I work on cars 5 days a week and if I saw this symptom on a car, I would definitely replace the thermostat to start.

replaced the thermostat, temp switches,....problem still persists

[oranger]

dude, you need a thermostat then. upper hose hot and lower hose cald means t stat not operating as it should. replace the thermostat man. And I am no kid off the street. I work on cars 5 days a week and if I saw this symptom on a car, I would definitely replace the thermostat to start.

Did you read the rest of the posts, the tstat is opening because there isn't any coolant getting to because of the rusted water pump...wow learn to read. I work on cars 5 days a week, at least I can read...

[lokuputha]

wow learn to read. I work on cars 5 days a week, at least I can read...

he'll read from now on...

Did you read the rest of the posts, the tstat is opening because there isn't any coolant getting to because of the rusted water pump...

actually i don't think the thermostat is opening...it would only open at high temperature....since the water pump is not functioning properly, the hot coolant won't make its way to the thermostat, thus the thermostat will remain closed...

correct me if Im wrong...

[cp[mike]]

you could try running without the tstat, see if the engine stays cold.

[lokuputha]

you could try running without the tstat, see if the engine stays cold.

should have tried that....oh well...now its at the mechanic...hope its only the water pump that is fkd....hopefully there is rust blockage in the radiator

[lokuputha]

confirmation: water pump has totally rusted away...thus the overheating

now I'm trying to source the 19-tooth F20A DOHC water pump....unlike the 20-tooth one found in our accords and preludes.

i;ll keep u guys updated.

[F20A CB7]

Hey guys, I need some serious help...i've tried to diagnose this but im coming up with nothing....

Problem: Radiator fan is off when ignition is on, and only turns on when I turn the ignition off.

Symptoms: boiling during driving

Solution:___________________________________________...fill in the blank?


takes:

-fan temp sensor/switch (replaced....problem still exists)
-fuses (all are good)
-relay (switched relays....problem still exists)

Thanks in advance

wat about the coolant temp sensor

[cp[mike]]

confirmation: water pump has totally rusted away...thus the overheating

now I'm trying to source the 19-tooth F20A DOHC water pump....unlike the 20-tooth one found in our accords and preludes.

i;ll keep u guys updated.

you could always get the shop to press the gear off of the original pump and press it onto the new one, im assuming either an H22 or H23 pump would bolt to the F20 block?

[lokuputha]

you could always get the shop to press the gear off of the original pump and press it onto the new one, im assuming either an H22 or H23 pump would bolt to the F20 block?

yeah the prelude pump fit perfectly...its the pulley that is different...

if i can't source an entire pump, switching the pulleys will be plan B.

[accordaffair]

+1 for that mechanic, experience is the best teacher

[lokuputha]

+1 for that mechanic, experience is the best teacher

for sure

F20a DOHC water pump sourcing efforts so far...

[lokuputha]

the above leads were all wrong, and we have yielded no leads to find the PT2 water pump in North America....so...

plan B...getting a local water pump rebuilder to press fit the 19T in the place of the 20T pulley

i am still waiting for some emails back from UK Honda Dealerships for the exact OEM part # for the F20A DOHC water pump, maybe I can order a whole bunch @ a batch price.

found another solution, but this is best done during the engine swap phase:

http://www.accordwagonclub.com/forum...abf350bc79d300

here's the 1st post on that thread:

"Okay, we've got two different cars in this week with JDM engines, both needing major work. The first is a '90 Accord the broke a timing belt on it's F20A. Wierd stuff... The head gasket is the same as the rest of the F22 engines, but the valves, guides, and seals in the head all match the USDM H23 parts (of course they are the PT2 numbers, which predate the H23). The water pump doesn't exactly match the 19200-P0A-003 number we stock, as the original unit had a 19 tooth pulley, and the new unit has a 20 tooth pulley. Turned out to not make a difference though, as we used the 14400-P14-004 timing belt (Stock for H23), which has 127 teeth, and is 24mm wide. The stock 14400-PT2-004 belt that came off the engine was 126 teeth by 24mm.

So, the only water pump I could find that was the correct mounting plate was the P0A, and the only timing belt I could find that was 126 Teeth was the 14400-P72-004 for the GS-R/ITR engines, but it is 26mm (2mm too wide). Wierd... But, It's all working out using the slightly longer belt (P14) and slightly larger pulley (P0A).

Turns out that the F22B is the same setup. Same belt and everything as the F20A, just has a longer stroke, I guess."

[lokuputha]

done and done...! ....got a local shop to swap over the 19T (19 tooth) pulley over from the F20A DOHC water pump into a Prelude SR water pump...

apperantly the water pump has been broken for over a year...all this time I thought i was hearing valve-ticking...

the engine is back to its smooth self......i like.

here's what is left of the old water pump.

[1991exrs]

so now the car runs

so it will be ready for the next meet

[lokuputha]

so it will be ready for the next meet

lol...knock on wood...

just took it out for a drive today...the car is back to its smooth self...

who wants to have a Holiday Monday quick meet! ...