head removal

[m-tec93accord]

i blew a headgasket, so i'm in the process of removing the head

i have almost everything off, but NOW THAT DAMN CRANK PULLEY, i tried my impact wrench but i think the compressor i have aint cutting it(it jumps down PSI as soon as i try to blast it off, from 120psi to 80psi QUICKLY)

but as i'm sitting theor frustrated, i was looking at the head and notice the you could remove the rocker arm assembly, camshaft, then the timing belt could be slipped off by moving around the camshaft, IS THIS POSSIBLE OR PRETTY MUCH SHUT UP, AND YOU HAVE TO TAKE OFF THE CRANK PULLEY???

2. also could i slip my intake manifold off by just removing the support bar and bolts to the cylinder head; so i could just only remove the head???

3. i have an automatic, WHERE THE HELL DO YOU STOP THIS THING FROM TURNING; in the haynes book it say to put a screwdriver somewhere between the downpipe and lower center beam, in some hole in the tranny(i just gave up and stuck it between my camshaft pulley and motor mount)

4. ANY ADVICE..........




yea i know kinda long, but i like to be detailed......

[rickyduckworth]

the crank pulleys are usually pains in the ass....i broke a $100 pull handle while using the holding tool and a 200psi gun couldn't break it loose, so i worked around it, even changed the timing belt without pulling the pulley (pain in the ass)

really not that bad to just pull the head though if you don't have that plastic in the way. i'm a firm believer in making shit better by getting rid of it. out of the 50+ cars i've had and worked on, i've never had problems with pulling the timing belt cover and leaving it off to make it easier to work on. i've had 6 cb7's and they were all perfectly fine for as long as i had them by ripping the plastic cover off and leaving it, so, even with the pulley still stuck on there, i'd break/tear/burn, whatever, to get that cover off so you can go to work

i'd also get rid of the manifold support since it really doesn't do a thing post-production. a lot of braces/clips/retainers are there while the car is on the assembly line and/or regulations, not practicality

i always leave the manifold attached though and use it as a handle, comes out just as easily

[jhondayaaj]

yes you can just take out the intake man. bolts and nuts and the back bracket connected to the block. if you leave the intake manifold to the head, that shit is gonna be heavy as fuck pulling the head too. anyways, why take the crank pulley off?? you don't need to take the pulley off to remove your head. just do what you posted and remember to mark your t belt and your cam gear so when you put it back, you have no worries of it not being timed. good luck bro.

[rickyduckworth]

yes you can just take out the intake man. bolts and nuts and the back bracket connected to the block. if you leave the intake manifold to the head, that shit is gonna be heavy as fuck pulling the head too. anyways, why take the crank pulley off?? you don't need to take the pulley off to remove your head. just do what you posted and remember to mark your t belt and your cam gear so when you put it back, you have no worries of it not being timed. good luck bro.

well, since the IM weighs less than 10lbs, it won't matter and will give you a place to hold it, not to mention the trouble and time necessary to pull all the bolts off of it (from the top and underneath the car)

it will take longer and be more work to pull either manifold. the head is what, 75lbs? the exhaust manifold is about 15 or 20 but the intake manny is aluminum and light, maybe closer to 5lbs.

i'd leave the intake manny on, pull the exhaust manny/header and do it that way

[jhondayaaj]

well, since the IM weighs less than 10lbs, it won't matter and will give you a place to hold it, not to mention the trouble and time necessary to pull all the bolts off of it (from the top and underneath the car)

it will take longer and be more work to pull either manifold. the head is what, 75lbs? the exhaust manifold is about 15 or 20 but the intake manny is aluminum and light, maybe closer to 5lbs.

i'd leave the intake manny on, pull the exhaust manny/header and do it that way

sending the head off anyways!!!!!!!! but remember, there is no right or wrong way to work on a car. just personal preference. so however you want to pull off that head is up to you. either way would work.

[m-tec93accord]

ok see, i knew i didnt have to pull this damn thing off

in the haynes manual(if anyone has them, you'll know what i'm talking about)

they list that you have to remove the pulley in order to get to the plastic crap, then loosen the tensioner and thus taking off the balance belt and timing belt, then remove the rocker arm assembly and camshaft, THEN remove the head

BUT, i saw the head bolt already, what did the crank pulley have to do with the head, why do they list it that way?????

its much easier to just remove the rocker and camshaft, then the head bolts

BUT heres another question then: when i'm putting the head back on, how am i going to put the cam gear back on and make the timing belt fit??? its really snug on their, wouldnt it need to be tightend back on to prevent slackness???

or is it, i'm skipping the pulley method, STILL taking off the plastic cover to access the balance shaft and timing belt removal(basically working around the pulley), then proceed on....RIGHT....

[jhondayaaj]

that's why I said to mark the t belt and the cam gear with like white out or something. when putting back on camshaft, set the cam on the belt and line up marks. lay camshaft on head, and then put the rocker arms over the camshaft and slowly tightn up the bolts. don't forget to send head out to get it resurfaced.

[foamypirate]

I would highly reccomend leaving that IM bracket connected, against others advice. The IM weighs more than 5 pounds with the plenum/tb, etc. Manifolds and heads have been known to crack without it. I say if it's there from the factory, it should be there when you're done.

[NAiL05]

Also the bracket there is to decrease some of the stress from the lil bolts that hold it on. Anyway buy the honda crank pulley tool and break it off. That would be an easier way. You need to take off the pulley to loosen timing so you can take off the head. And mark the belt and such for reference.

[m-tec93accord]

actually i got head off w/o taking apart the pulley, just pushed the timing belt off the cam, but i did mark the relationship between the belt(where it hits the cam), individual legs, and such.....

is this still efficient or am i making this harder on myself

reason i ask is b/c i've read that the tensioner exerts itself on the balance belt, as well as, the timing belt; by just slipping the belt off, did i throw it off??? and how will i tension'd it back up

I NEED TO BUY CHILTON, THIS HAYNES BOOK ONLY GOES SO FAR

[alb_accord]

the reason why the book ssays to move the crank pulley off is that after you done fixing the cilinder head, you will need to adjust the belts and checking if all the marks aligne on the pulleys.

you don't need to remove the crank shaft pulley in order to take the cilinder head off but you will need to move if you want to make sure you are doing everything ok.

if you just want to remove the cilinder head for now just follow these steps.

losen up the adjusting bolt.
slip the belt off the cam shaft pulley....
make sure the IM is not conected to the head or if you want to take the cilinder head with the IM then make sure you take off all the bolts and hozes etc

take off the bolts that hold the head down to the engine block.

then you are good to go.

[m-tec93accord]

alright now 1 more explanation that the book says(and i looked it up but different people do it different ways i hear)

its says i have to torque down the head in three steps, also it varies w/torque setting i.e.: 26, 32, 64

now does this mean:

1. setting torque wrench to 26, torque it down, then adjust to higher setting, torque, then last time same(ALL WHILE TO 1/4 turn increments and following tightening seqence)

or

2. same first settings, but as i torque down for the first setting, UNBOLT IT, then adjust to new setting, torque down to that setting, LOOSEN AGAIN, then final time on third setting?

REASON AGAIN: i went to pepboys, and they said to do it the first way, to ensure its properly torque down to seqence....on the other hand, i talk to this guy at advance auto, and they said to do step 2.

theres was this one guy who just said to skip all the steps and do the last setting, then ONE final 1/4 turn on same setting, the heat from the engine will take care of the rest(like lug nut when tightned and over a period of time, become even more tighter)

thanks for helping, this info will stay with me forever, so dont expect me to ask again, just wanna be clear

...................................AWAITING OWEQUITIT TO HAVE AN ESSAY ON WHY THIS MUST BE DONE TO ENSURE PROPER SEAL (just kidding, i like your essays......learned more thru that then books )

[m-tec93accord]

ok scratch last post, got everything reassembled, BUT.......damn thing wont start:

when thru normal procedure:
kick the car
scream
curse in spanish than patua,
then actually check for leak(fuel and such:NONE)
bought starting fluid, sprayed it in intake tract(FAILED)
check for spark(OK), except for cylinder 1, cant decifer if its bad or not but it wont come out, it wont even catch the socket(all other do but not this one)

i didnt strip the threads, so anything else????

also whats the quick way of telling whether the compression is too low to crank w/o a tester(i.e.: sight and hearing)

[m-tec93accord]

bump, NEED MY CAR RUNNING ASAP, i hate driving my gf's slow 4banger mustang, WHERE'S THE TORQUE?????

[wed3k]

so absoletely everything is lined up correctly...cam, water, oil pump, balance shaft and crank? these cant be half assed.

one other thing that prevented me from starting the car would be distributor wires. makes sure they are correct.