head removal

[m-tec93accord]

so absoletely everything is lined up correctly...cam, water, oil pump, balance shaft and crank? these cant be half assed.

one other thing that prevented me from starting the car would be distributor wires. makes sure they are correct.

thats the first thing i checked, but about the lining everything up

i made marks, not nessesarily the mark etched on their, but at least mark BEFORE i started removing everything:
took out plug, at TDC
distributor pointing a #1 cylinder

isnt that enough or should i also check the mark at the crank pulley(well i didnt take off the time cover b/c there aint no way in hell i can take off that pulley)

[wed3k]

every timing belt job i have done, i needed to offset the pulleys so that i can put enough tension ont he belt.

i meant the firing order of the wires...1-3-4-2

[m-tec93accord]

ok i think i got it now, im getting a timing gun later:

i rotated the crank to TDC(verified it by tab pointing to notch on tranny); distributor at #1 spark plug wire, but the word "UP" is not pointing up.

i didnt take off the cam gear, so all i need to is remove the timing belt by loosening the tension, rotate the cam till the word "UP" is up then i'm good right

and that bolt near the crank pulley is the one to loosen the belt w/o taking off covers

I HOPE IM ON THE RIGHT TRACK

[LinX]

Assuming you have an H22: the 14mm bolt above the pulley loosens the balancer belt. The 10mm just above to the right is the adjusting nut for the auto tensioner. It doesn't really loosen the timing belt it just adjusts the level of tension once you reinstall the auto tensioner. DO NOT loosen this adjusting nut past the point of resistance or you can break the water pump.

[rickyduckworth]

I would highly reccomend leaving that IM bracket connected, against others advice. The IM weighs more than 5 pounds with the plenum/tb, etc. Manifolds and heads have been known to crack without it. I say if it's there from the factory, it should be there when you're done.

no they haven't, you just made that up lol.

so you're also against removing the tabs that hold rotors on most cars while they roll down the assembly line, right?

modifying a car is bad too, right?

you see that slippery slope you're on when you say "if the factory says so, i believe"

i've had a few cb7's and every one has done fine without timing belt covers, that "oh so important" support bracket, half of the other shit that's basically in the way and serving no purpose, etc.

if those 10 bolts can't support the intake manifold, that bracket hasn't got a chance. and if the manifold was that heavy or "stressed" then it would snap off at the runners.

the head would be the last thing to go lol. but hey, guys like you keep dealerships rich. "i have honda water in my honda radiator that has a honda cap"

to each their own. won't take me a half day to change a water pump or pull a manifold though

[wed3k]

agreed, i ditch every bracket and bolt i can afford to lose. in the end it will be 5lbs off free weight removed.

especially important if you are trying to los 400 lbs in a race car.

[m-tec93accord]

ok so that lower timing belt covers doesnt matter???

i know if there for convenince(sp?) sake, but i thought by removing the lower timing belt cover(the one the covers the water, oil, and balance shaft belt and pulleys), would corrode or rust due to it being directly exposed to the elements.

although it would make it hells easier to diagnose a leak from either the oil pump, water pump and/or various seals around that area

that does remind me of the guy who pretty much stripped the inside of the engine bay(looks reall nice too), all that crap near the fuse box and a couple of things near where the power steering is was gone, i'll find the pic cause i wanted to do that as well just didnt want to run into reliability issues