Car Died on me today

[93AccordLXwhite]

This morning I was headed to school and my 1993 Accord LX died.(first time to my knowledge that it's ever 'broken down'

Factors: It was cold
-I believe I have a valve gasket problem
-Oil seepage around one spark plug
-SMALL oil seepage around one of the acorn nuts
-^Said nut was able to be loosened by hand so I tightened it yesterday
-The car has 214,585 miles on it, but that's nothing.
-Completely stock, F22A1
-Major Gold Service Performed 5,378 miles ago
-Oil & Filter Changed 5,378 miles ago by Honda
-Spark plugs replaced
-Changed Transmission Fluid
-Update; my dad thinks that the timing belt was changed at 180,000 miles(@35,000 ago.)
-My car's been taking longer than usual to start the past couple days.

What Happened: Driving to school normally
-On the way, doing about 25 MPH and I noticed my engine was losing power. Short little dips in power though, hardly noticeable. Felt like I was completely taking my foot off the gas but I wasn't.
-About 1/4 of a mile from my house the following occured all withing 5-10 seconds
-#1 No power. It felt like the car was in neutral. I tapped the gas and nothing.
-#2 RPM dropped to Zero
-#3 Oil light and Battery light came on at the same time
-I pulled over to the side of the road immediately and turned off the car
-Checked under the hood, the belts I could see were ok
-Battery was connected
-Checked the oil, it was low(guessing from the valve gasket problem)
-Didn't try to start the car again
-Turned key to II and the battery light and oil light came on and stayed on again.

I got it towed home. I've been told it's most likely the timing belt or the alternator.

Any thoughts? I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow most likely. I'm also considering using a mechanic from CB7tuner.com.(If it's the timing belt I'm scared $$$)

Thanks guys, I've gotta walk to school now but I'll be checking for replies at the end of the day.

[SIZE=5]EDIT** Diagnosis: An element on the catalytic converter would expand after heating up with normal engine operating temperatures. This caused the exhaust to become blocked and stall(?) the engine.
Fix: New Catalytic converter - $427.88 from the stealership
combined with..
A bad igniter and subassembly of the distributor which didn't send a strong enough/no spark to the cylinders.
Fix: New igniter and distributor housing - $198.84

[Otto]

batt and oil lights are normal for stopped engine with the key on.
I don't think its the belt or batt or alt. But of course you'll need to investigate. Should be able to find a sticky in beginner tech I believe it was.
Remove belt cover (valve cover comes off first IIRC) to see if belt is still intact, try turning engine by hand (wrench on PS pulley bolt is my method) and see if cam turns with it.

[ExplodingCake]

You might wanna get your alternator checked , it might not be charging the battery.

[TypeG]

-Oil seepage around one spark plug

quite common and is usually this:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...lug+tube+seals

-SMALL oil seepage around one of the acorn nuts
-^Said nut was able to be loosened by hand so I tightened it yesterday

new acron nut seals will solve this. the oil leak there is not the cause of your problem. be sure not to overtighten the nut(s) because they snap like twigs.

-Turned key to II and the battery light and oil light came on and stayed on again.

this is normal as long as the key is in the acc postion and the car is not running.

I've been told it's most likely the timing belt or the alternator.

what you can do to rule out the timing belt is this, take of the distributor cap and have someone try to start the car while you watch for the rotor cap button to turn. if it turns with the motor, then your timing belt is fine.


a way to test the alternator without removing it from the car is this, start your car, remove the battery with it running, and turn on the headlights. if the alt is bad, then the car should die right away....even sooner if the alt is real bad. later.

[jtkustomizer]

Do you have compresion? If you dont its the timing belt


I just replaced mine and it took me all summer because i am lazy and didnt use this forum to ask questions that i should have



It realy wasnt that hard replacing the timing belt it just takes time and has some tough stuff to get to. But if someone is willing to help you might as well do it yourself with their help just let them tell you what to do and then get it done.

I think that the toughest part was getting the counter balencers timed corectly. other than that its just pulling things off just so you can have access to the belts. I did mine with the engine still in the car so that makes it a little bit tougher.

[93AccordLXwhite]

Thanks for all the quick replies. I'm REALLY hoping it's the alternator. It's making a stronger argument, the car's been taking a little bit longer to start the past few days. Yesterday it was so long I thought it wasn't going to start for a second.

[93AccordLXwhite]

quite common and is usually this:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...lug+tube+seals

Thanks, I read that last week and am hoping to do it in the near future.

new acron nut seals will solve this. the oil leak there is not the cause of your problem. be sure not to overtighten the nut(s) because they snap like twigs.

I didn't even know there were seals, I'll pick up a pair at my Honda dealership. Yep, before I tightened them I read that they were 8 lbs each(and about how easily they break) I believe. I only gave it 4-5 turns but I'm looking into getting a nice torque wrench so I can do it right.

this is normal as long as the key is in the acc postion and the car is not running.

Really? I tried it again just now, all the lights light up(check engine etc.) then after 2-3 seconds they go out except the oil & battery. Even the seat belt warning goes on if you undo your seatbelt.

a way to test the alternator without removing it from the car is this, start your car, remove the battery with it running, and turn on the headlights. if the alt is bad, then the car should die right away....even sooner if the alt is real bad. later.

This sounds like it's really easy and effective, will it hurt my car to start it if it is the timing belt?

Thanks again.

[TypeG]

This sounds like it's really easy and effective, will it hurt my car to start it if it is the timing belt?

if the timing belt broke while you were driving, then the damage has already been done (bent valves). damage could get worse though. i have a feeling it's not the belt, but problems like this take a bit of troubleshooting. later.

[preludeman92]

I'd bet it needs a distributor. When they fail, the normally cause this kind of problem.

[JohnD1079]

I do not understand why you think its the timing belt. Why dont you just try to restart it right now?Plus if the timing belt broke pretty much all the damage has been done.

[Cb7GHOST]

put oil in it if its still low and then try to turn it on again

[93AccordLXwhite]

Well the only things I have to go on(besides the recent suggestion of distributor) as of now is that it's either the timing belt or the alternator(I haven't been able to reach my mechanic since it's his off day, and the two people I've talked to, dad and tow truck driver, both have suggested those two as culprits. I think it's the alternator, but my dad doesn't want me to start it because there's a chance it's the timing belt, so tomorrow it's going into the mechanic.

John I don't know if you got my last PM but I was wondering if you've sent the parts yet? Thanks.

[4CYLPOWER92]

If your belt broke while driving, you would hear some disturbing noises as your valves hit the pistons.

My guess is the ignitor, found inside the distributor. You need to test for spark.

[93AccordLXwhite]

Well as of 8 am this morning the car is at my mechanic. I'll post what it was when I find out.

[BuckChoklit]

I'll bet it's the alternator. Almost 100% sure.