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SUSP: Replacing Rear Rotors w/ Pads

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    #16
    great write up man thanks

    I'm just curious though, for those of us with 10th anniversaries that came with 4 wheel ABS, does this same procedure apply? or is it just better to bring it to a shop?

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      #17
      I got a question. For the rear, the rotors are not pressed on right? The hub is over the rotor, or is it backwards? I'm sorta confused.

      For the front, the hub is over the rotor and they are pressed together. So you need a shop to unpress them, and then you can install new rotors right? OR you can just get 99 2.3CL hub and rotors and install them on the front right? And it's not necessary to get 99 2.3CL hub and rotors for the rear right?

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        #18
        Originally posted by i97supratti
        I got a question. For the rear, the rotors are not pressed on right? The hub is over the rotor, or is it backwards? I'm sorta confused.

        For the front, the hub is over the rotor and they are pressed together. So you need a shop to unpress them, and then you can install new rotors right? OR you can just get 99 2.3CL hub and rotors and install them on the front right? And it's not necessary to get 99 2.3CL hub and rotors for the rear right?
        yes they are NOT pressed on like the front. the rear is designed conventionally. no pressing is necessary. the front does need pressing unless you do the rotor-over-hub conversion with the parts you stated above. it is not necessary to get the acura parts for the rear though. good luck!

        nice write up! i'm glad you replaced them since they were looking terrible. they look much better now and i bet they function better too. good job. i suggest wearing shoes next time though for your safety. even though it is uncomfortable, i would rather feel that way than risk losing a toe or two. safety first brother. just my $0.02 !
        1cor10:31
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          #19
          Originally posted by fliplyricist1
          great write up man thanks

          I'm just curious though, for those of us with 10th anniversaries that came with 4 wheel ABS, does this same procedure apply? or is it just better to bring it to a shop?

          Same procedure. I think i saw the abs thinging on my rear disks. ah o well


          yeah shoes next time!


          Another good DIY comming this weekend so watch out!

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            #20
            can u guys do the FRONT...!! i think thats the worse..
            hahahahah

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              #21
              Originally posted by timmy0tool
              yes they are NOT pressed on like the front. the rear is designed conventionally. no pressing is necessary. the front does need pressing unless you do the rotor-over-hub conversion with the parts you stated above. it is not necessary to get the acura parts for the rear though. good luck!

              nice write up! i'm glad you replaced them since they were looking terrible. they look much better now and i bet they function better too. good job. i suggest wearing shoes next time though for your safety. even though it is uncomfortable, i would rather feel that way than risk losing a toe or two. safety first brother. just my $0.02 !
              I was reading a recent thread on here where people said the fronts arent pressed on? also haynes doesnt say anything about it either.


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                #22
                I HIGHLY suggest, when you remove all the parts to do this rear rotor/pad replacement, take the extra time and remove the caliper bracket to clean & grease the pins well. These pins can seize up over time and will cause awkward wear and possible lock-up. Also, note the condition of your brake piston boot and check for tears/leaks, etc. BEFORE turning the piston back into the caliper bore, I suggest spraying silicone lubricant spray on the rubber before so that it's nice and supple as you turn it back, otherwise if it's dry it can tear easily.
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                  #23
                  IF the piston doesn't turn back into the rotor then the caliper is seized right?

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                    #24
                    That's what I thought too on mine. I guess it has just been so long since my rears were done. I went and bought a gear puller and put the center pin lined up on the piston and hooked the two little arms on the caliper little arms (I know confusing sounding but it's not) and just screwed away slowly and it worked just fine. For the life of me I couldn't get them down with a c-clamp though.
                    1992 Accord LX CB9 149K Stock
                    2014 F350 Platinum CCSB SRW

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                      #25
                      i did my rear passenger side today because i was painting my calipers but all my other breaks had 75% left but only my rear passenger pad had literally 1% left

                      is it bad to only change 1 and leave the other break pad alone even though it has 75% tread?
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                        #26
                        RISE AGAIN THREAD!

                        Nice DIY Maple..

                        bringing this out of the grave!
                        92 LX. A6 with GUDE bullfrog Cam. M2S4 transmission..Gutted H23 intake mani. The rest you will just have to find out!


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                          #27
                          Get that asbesots all up in your toesss!... nice write up, real simple. you can also pop the heads of those set screws with asetalyne toarch. then you dont have to wory about them again. just put 1 lug nut on when you are putting the caliper back on.
                          Engines hate me... thats why they commit suicide

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                            #28
                            here is a trick that i used i coated the 2 retaing screws with nerverseize you can pick it up at napa . did that because i had to drill the heads off of them .
                            WE MISS YOU JO(9-04-2008)

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by xkjnboix
                              i did my rear passenger side today because i was painting my calipers but all my other breaks had 75% left but only my rear passenger pad had literally 1% left

                              is it bad to only change 1 and leave the other break pad alone even though it has 75% tread?

                              This is a good question...Is it ok to change just 1? I looked at my brakes and 3 had like 80% plus life left and the rear passenger side literally is gone.....

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                                #30
                                ok on a scale from 1 to 10 how hard was it to remove those 2 little phillips head screws, and turn the piston so you can get the brake pad on and have enough clearance? I will be doing this real soon (well whenever I buy my ebc green stuff pads )
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