Alright, here you have a quick how-to of how to convert your CB7's rear to 5-Lug. F22A (Sean) will be doing the DIY for the front, since he took allot of pictures of the front and I took allot of the back. This is really easy to do, it just seems more difficult then it really is. I hope this helps everyone out.
This is assuming you are doing the swap to a 92/93 EX (93 SE) with OE ABS and rear disc brakes. If you do not have rear disc brakes you will first need to convert your rear drums to rear discs. For those of you who CONVERT from drums to discs the ABS parts of this DIY do not apply.
Parts you need:
- 97-01 Honda Prelude rear hub and bearing assembly x2
Part number: 42200-S30-C51
List Price: $140.92 each
Should pay: $110.00 +/- each
- 97-01 Acura Integra Type-R rear rotors x2
Part Number: 42510-ST7-R00
List Price: $94.95 each
Should pay: $80.00 +/- each
- 97-01 Prelude rear Axle Nut x2
Part Number: 90305-S30-003
List Price: $8.20 each
Should pay: $6.50 +/- each
I bought the hub and bearings from a junkyard before I realized exactly what I really needed from the Prelude and how much those parts cost new. For the rear of the swap I strongly suggest buying new OE hub/bearings. As for the rotors buy whatever you can, OE, Brembo, etc. I chose to go with cheap chinese made rotors, They cost me $22.00 a peice with my discount and do just as good a job as the others.
Total I spent for the rear swap: $244.00 even
- $100 x2 for junkyard Prelude rear suspension (mistake, should have bought new).
- $22.00 x2 for 97-01 ITR rotors.
I already had very new brake pads from when I just recently did my brakes so I resued them.
Lets get started.
Step 1: Jack the car up and secure it on jack stands:
Step 2: Take off wheel (Duuuhhhh):
Step 3: Remove bracket securing brake line (two 12mm head bolts), remove caliper (two 12mm head bolts), and remove caliper bracket (two 14mm head bolts). *Not Pictured.
Step 4: Remove dust cap exposing 32mm nut and remove 32mm nut:
*Note: Notice the little balls in the bearing assembly? That means the bearings race has stayed behind on the shaft. This is normal for older cars.
Step 5: Remove the bearings race from the shaft, To do this spray behind the race and between the race and shaft with PB Blaster, allow it to soak, then using a pry bar or large flat head screw driver, pry the race out of the shaft from behind. Meaning wedge the pry bar between the race and dust shield. DO NOT SCORE or MARK UP SHAFT!
*Note: Here's the race out:
*Note: Here's what the shaft should look like:
*Note: Complete rear 97-01 Prelude suspension:
Step 6: Remove two phillips screws holding prelude rotor to hub, remove dust cap exposing 32mm axle nut, and remove axle nut.
*Note: The Prelude's bearing should NOT leave the race behind, If it does, discard this bearing, it's junk and will whine and hum if you try to re-use it, This is why I say go new, it's worth it. I got lucky.
*Note: Notice the difference between the Preludes Spindle nut and the Accords Nut/Washer combination. You want to use the Prelude's nut as it has more thread to grab the shaft.
Next Post!
This is assuming you are doing the swap to a 92/93 EX (93 SE) with OE ABS and rear disc brakes. If you do not have rear disc brakes you will first need to convert your rear drums to rear discs. For those of you who CONVERT from drums to discs the ABS parts of this DIY do not apply.
Parts you need:
- 97-01 Honda Prelude rear hub and bearing assembly x2
Part number: 42200-S30-C51
List Price: $140.92 each
Should pay: $110.00 +/- each
- 97-01 Acura Integra Type-R rear rotors x2
Part Number: 42510-ST7-R00
List Price: $94.95 each
Should pay: $80.00 +/- each
- 97-01 Prelude rear Axle Nut x2
Part Number: 90305-S30-003
List Price: $8.20 each
Should pay: $6.50 +/- each
I bought the hub and bearings from a junkyard before I realized exactly what I really needed from the Prelude and how much those parts cost new. For the rear of the swap I strongly suggest buying new OE hub/bearings. As for the rotors buy whatever you can, OE, Brembo, etc. I chose to go with cheap chinese made rotors, They cost me $22.00 a peice with my discount and do just as good a job as the others.
Total I spent for the rear swap: $244.00 even
- $100 x2 for junkyard Prelude rear suspension (mistake, should have bought new).
- $22.00 x2 for 97-01 ITR rotors.
I already had very new brake pads from when I just recently did my brakes so I resued them.
Lets get started.
Step 1: Jack the car up and secure it on jack stands:
Step 2: Take off wheel (Duuuhhhh):
Step 3: Remove bracket securing brake line (two 12mm head bolts), remove caliper (two 12mm head bolts), and remove caliper bracket (two 14mm head bolts). *Not Pictured.
Step 4: Remove dust cap exposing 32mm nut and remove 32mm nut:
*Note: Notice the little balls in the bearing assembly? That means the bearings race has stayed behind on the shaft. This is normal for older cars.
Step 5: Remove the bearings race from the shaft, To do this spray behind the race and between the race and shaft with PB Blaster, allow it to soak, then using a pry bar or large flat head screw driver, pry the race out of the shaft from behind. Meaning wedge the pry bar between the race and dust shield. DO NOT SCORE or MARK UP SHAFT!
*Note: Here's the race out:
*Note: Here's what the shaft should look like:
*Note: Complete rear 97-01 Prelude suspension:
Step 6: Remove two phillips screws holding prelude rotor to hub, remove dust cap exposing 32mm axle nut, and remove axle nut.
*Note: The Prelude's bearing should NOT leave the race behind, If it does, discard this bearing, it's junk and will whine and hum if you try to re-use it, This is why I say go new, it's worth it. I got lucky.
*Note: Notice the difference between the Preludes Spindle nut and the Accords Nut/Washer combination. You want to use the Prelude's nut as it has more thread to grab the shaft.
Next Post!
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