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Hit Curb -Advice?
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Short story: I swerved to miss hitting a dog. I hit a curb instead at 25 MPH at an angle that was more parallel with the curb than perpendicular. I bent the lower control arm and the tie rod. Here's the worst part though. It also bent the front rear-subframe. This is the subframe that the rear motor mount sits on, the steering rack is mounted to it as well as the lower control arms.
Even after replacing everything and bolting it back together, the car never felt the same again.
GL
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Originally posted by Raf99 View PostAnd don't take it to a frame shop. Our cars don't have frames. And also shows tire guy has no idea what he is talking about. Best of luck
Originally posted by oni_cb7 View PostShort story: I swerved to miss hitting a dog. I hit a curb instead at 25 MPH at an angle that was more parallel with the curb than perpendicular. I bent the lower control arm and the tie rod. Here's the worst part though. It also bent the front rear-subframe. This is the subframe that the rear motor mount sits on, the steering rack is mounted to it as well as the lower control arms.
Even after replacing everything and bolting it back together, the car never felt the same again.
GLLast edited by Fleetw00d; 01-10-2017, 01:41 PM.90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums
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I had this happen to me too, I put my car in the ditch once and bent the subframe, control arm, and radius rod. That sucked. I didn't have this community to lean on for advice back then so I had it towed to a shop. After a diagnosis and estimate for $2000+ I had it towed home and my Dad and I embarked on a project. Sourced parts from a junkyard and got to swapping. Took some time but we got it done.
So you got us here giving you all the advice. Use that advice. Get under your car and look for obvious bent parts. You got the other unbent side to compare to. Replace damaged parts, get an alignment from a competent shop.
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Take a really close look at the lower control arm mounting point on the cross member.90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums
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Originally posted by fleetw00d View PostTake a really close look at the lower control arm mounting point on the cross member.
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Also consider getting a new control arm, that way you get new bushings (and save a lot of labor).
Rockauto:
MOOG RK80324 {#51365SM4040} R-Series $29.79
Amazon:
Moog RK80324 Control Arm $36.88 Prime1992 EX, 306,000 miles - Track toy - M2S4, H23A1, ST rear swaybar, Wagon brakes, GC coil sleeves, KYB AGX dampers, Stoptech pads, Toyo Proxes R1R, 2.25" exhaust
Stock F22A6
VIR, 5/22/2016: https://youtu.be/eR5-ylSPsxk
H23A1 powered
NCCAR, 9/4/2016: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TI5WpxGrEpE
CMP, 10/16/2016: https://youtu.be/DOqoe5f-GLY
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Originally posted by masospaghetti View PostAlso consider getting a new control arm, that way you get new bushings (and save a lot of labor).
Rockauto:
MOOG RK80324 {#51365SM4040} R-Series $29.79
Amazon:
Moog RK80324 Control Arm $36.88 PrimeI'm faster then a prius
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Originally posted by GTRON View PostOh nooooo. It looks like it's bent a little.... crap
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