af_1132 : 1993 Accord LX

[cb9love]

Glad too see your overall happy with the first stage of your build.
As far as solid filled mounts go, you will never get tired driving but you may experience a nice drivers high, It's just like a runners high only from driving long distance in a intense vehicle.
I experienced it driving to MN from OH a little . It's over 800 miles one way.

[djcaz_aom]

Got it.

The butterflies need to be last. In other words on the bottom. By not having the black box operating the butterflies you are loosing lots of power. Right now your top end is hurting, because you lengthened the runners by a lot . The main reason to stack is to increase the volume of the plenum. By having the butterflies open your low end suffers as well. Why not gut the plenum, and get either a Blacktrax spacer or a Rosko Racing spacer? Then, add IABs to the ecu and get the most out of the setup.

Also, look into getting a larger throttle body. There is a reason as to why I went with dual throttle bodies. If you are ever interested in a setup like mine, just let me know.

[sonikaccord]

Let the fine tuning and experimentation begin!!

You should be the first to try out an RBC or RRC on the F series and document it here. I'm sure it would have interesting results.

[Chrisnick]

Definitely NEED more intake and exhaust. That thing is dying for airflow both through the midrange and up top. Torque just falls off at 5000RPM. IMO, there's no point in revving it past 6000RPM with what you currently have.

I'd suggest making your own header to match your cam. There's calculators out there(if you have all the timing events measured for your cam) that will give you 'ideal' runner lengths and size on both the intake and exhaust tracts; there's also calculators for throttle body size and intake diameter.

You're the type to do some research, so I won't spoon feed you the sites. Nice to see you make results though! It'd be great to see what a stock one puts down on that dyno. I'm thinking you should be able to trap around 90mph now! REALLY interested to see results with your planned nitrous setup. Since I autocross, I'm limited by my class's ruleset on power mods, but I also love going to the dragstrip and a 75-ish shot sounds right about where I'd like to go power wise! With my F22B2 two years ago, I ran a best of 16.375@83.5mph. Best 60' I could get out of it was a 2.35. The car was pretty much stock on a 94-97 Wagon trans-4.266FD, factory Prelude intake tube and airbox, no intake resonator, bald 205/50/16 Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec's, and an 05-06 RSX Type-S muffler. Lots of wheelhop and me just driving the absolute living sh*t out of it. Slowest car I've owned so far, but I love it haha!

[af_1132]

As far as solid filled mounts go, you will never get tired driving but you may experience a nice drivers high, It's just like a runners high only from driving long distance in a intense vehicle.

That definitely happened on the way home from Blacktrax, even with traffic for 40% of the trip. I just love this, even though it's clear that I'm not flowing how I should.

Got it.
The butterflies need to be last. In other words on the bottom. By not having the black box operating the butterflies you are loosing lots of power. Right now your top end is hurting, because you lengthened the runners by a lot . The main reason to stack is to increase the volume of the plenum. By having the butterflies open your low end suffers as well. Why not gut the plenum, and get either a Blacktrax spacer or a Rosko Racing spacer? Then, add IABs to the ecu and get the most out of the setup.

Also, look into getting a larger throttle body. There is a reason as to why I went with dual throttle bodies. If you are ever interested in a setup like mine, just let me know.

Ok, so let me make sure I have this straight, your suggestion is, in order from top to bottom:
1. Gutted plentum
2. Spacer (I'll go with Blacktrax)
3. IAB plate with functioning IAB's (black box + rewiring ECU to include IAB's).

Combining this with a Vibrant 2.5" collector mod, a 62mm S2k TB, and a retune should make quite a difference, it seems.

And, YES! I will be watching your build closely. If you get great results, then I will be contacting you about a similar fabrication for my direct port nitrous stage of the build. ITBs just seem like they would be underutilized when pointing towards the lower firewall, but your duals, combined with functioning hood scoop, oh boy!

I can tell I'm not going to make it to my dream without people like you, man. A million thumbs up !!!!!

You should be the first to try out an RBC or RRC on the F series and document it here. I'm sure it would have interesting results.

Short runners, huge plentum, ability to go with a larger TB, good stuff for sure. However, isn't Chedda's Auto the only one in the market with F2K adapters, and aren't they only compatible with the F22B/F23A VTEC heads?

[djcaz_aom]

You got it!

Glad I can help.

The other option, costly, but worth it, is the custom Rosko Racing upper plenum. It is massive and bolts to the A6 runners.

[af_1132]

Looks up the Rosko Plentum

Oooo, that is nice!

Now, that requires a full runner port job to run optimally, it seems. I assume I would still benefit from functional IABs, and wouldn't necessarily need a spacer, although they offer one for an additional liter of volume! TB matching from 60 to 77mm is also nice. I'll have to do some calculating.

[sonikaccord]

They are the only ones with production adapters, unless you want to go to the backyard shop and fab some adapters out of 10-15mm aluminum. I believe he made them for the f22a/h23a head pattern. And they are on "sale."

Also, someone local to me is selling an RBC w/ TB and injectors for cheap. PM or text me if you feel like trying it out.

[af_1132]

Definitely NEED more intake and exhaust. That thing is dying for airflow both through the midrange and up top. Torque just falls off at 5000RPM. IMO, there's no point in revving it past 6000RPM with what you currently have.

I'd suggest making your own header to match your cam. There's calculators out there(if you have all the timing events measured for your cam) that will give you 'ideal' runner lengths and size on both the intake and exhaust tracts; there's also calculators for throttle body size and intake diameter.

You're the type to do some research, so I won't spoon feed you the sites. Nice to see you make results though! It'd be great to see what a stock one puts down on that dyno. I'm thinking you should be able to trap around 90mph now! REALLY interested to see results with your planned nitrous setup. Since I autocross, I'm limited by my class's ruleset on power mods, but I also love going to the dragstrip and a 75-ish shot sounds right about where I'd like to go power wise! With my F22B2 two years ago, I ran a best of 16.375@83.5mph. Best 60' I could get out of it was a 2.35. The car was pretty much stock on a 94-97 Wagon trans-4.266FD, factory Prelude intake tube and airbox, no intake resonator, bald 205/50/16 Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec's, and an 05-06 RSX Type-S muffler. Lots of wheelhop and me just driving the absolute living sh*t out of it. Slowest car I've owned so far, but I love it haha!

Yep, I'm thinking stock redline will be where I shift for now. I'm not sure how good my rod bearings are, so I have to be careful. I have the same FD as you, and man are things close and fun! I have all the cam specs, so I will go to the calculators . You and tishock are like the crazy autocross versions of me, and it's awesome to see. My best 60' with stock motor, IM, and suspension, is a 2.244.

To start, here is the system I want to make work: http://www.zex.com/zx/4-cylinder-efi...us-systemhtml/

With these supports: Purge Kit, bottle heater, nozzle pressure gauge, level gauge for the dash, and possibly a remote valve opener

It will be another season before this stage takes off, but man, it's right up my alley.

[af_1132]

They are the only ones with production adapters, unless you want to go to the backyard shop and fab some adapters out of 10-15mm aluminum. I believe he made them for the f22a/h23a head pattern. And they are on "sale."

Also, someone local to me is selling an RBC w/ TB and injectors for cheap. PM or text me if you feel like trying it out.

Woah woah, is he in a hurry to sell? Also, what size is the TB?

[Jarrett]

So, did the front mount work out okay or does it still need some work?

[sonikaccord]

Not sure. I need to double check and make sure he still has it.

[af_1132]

So, did the front mount work out okay or does it still need some work?

After driving it for a day, I have to say that the front end if stiff as a rock, and that's how I like it! This thing is turning into a go-kart and it takes off well from a slow roll! I need to do a hard launch tonight to check for wheelhop, as that's the only thing left to do. Once I do that, I'll come back and make sure everything is still tight.

I've been trying to get a good picture of this mount for a while, but the shadows are proving too much for the only camera I have. I'm going to snap a picture tonight with flash. If all is good there, I will share your links to the components, with your permission, of course.

[af_1132]

Oh my gosh, it's just heaven.

In the last post, I said I was going to drive around and do some hard launches to check for wheel hop. Well, I made excuses to drive around for more than an hour and a half! I picked up my parents, who haven't been in the car since it was stock, let another friend have a go, and generally spent time driving around for no other reason but to be in my CB. I found myself laughing uncontrollably, like a psychopath! It's so tight and rigid and beautiful and go-karty and funny and crazy and monstery and AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!

All that on an 8.8:1 compression stock block NA build. I'm really not sure what this thing will do in the 1/4, but we will see and hope for 14's.

Oh, about the wheel hop: dramatically reduced, and usually nonexistent depending on the severity of the launch. That front torque mount is still as solid, rigid, and tight as the day I installed it. Jarret, I will send you pics!

Life is good, so share the happiness!

[Chrisnick]

I have a front mount insert in my car, and it helped immensely. I'll look into getting a set of mounts to fill in the future as the snow melts and I can go junkyard diving. I still get pretty nasty wheelhop near the top of first and if I launch hard.

Yep, I'm thinking stock redline will be where I shift for now. I'm not sure how good my rod bearings are, so I have to be careful. I have the same FD as you, and man are things close and fun! I have all the cam specs, so I will go to the calculators . You and tishock are like the crazy autocross versions of me, and it's awesome to see. My best 60' with stock motor, IM, and suspension, is a 2.244.

To start, here is the system I want to make work: http://www.zex.com/zx/4-cylinder-efi...us-systemhtml/

With these supports: Purge Kit, bottle heater, nozzle pressure gauge, level gauge for the dash, and possibly a remote valve opener

It will be another season before this stage takes off, but man, it's right up my alley.

I'm kinda flattered haha! I'd really like to snap up a T2T4, but it's almost more economical to find a whole F20B/T2T4 combo. I'd like to build an F20B with an F23 crank in it, but by that point, this chassis may be pretty rotten and probably will have close to 300K! A stroked F20B with about a 12:1 compression, some e85, Pro2's and a direct port of about 150 sounds just tooooo much fun.

As for nitrous, check out www.noswizard.com their pulsoid technology looks like the next big step for nitrous systems in a "street" application.