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brakes smoking

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    #1

    brakes smoking

    from leaving the driveway it drives normally and brakes normally.after i drive it for about a mile or 2 it hesitates alot(brakes grabbing) and the brakes get hard,when i push down on them they only go down about a inch.i bleeded all 4 brakes at the wheels,before the the fluid was just dripping out but i got it to jump out when bleeding.the car has been sitting up for a couple of months.I pulled in the driveway i saw it smoking,i thought it was coming from the hood in transmission, but the front right brakes were smoking.today i replaced the master cylinder,while i loosened the screws i could hear the brakes loosening.could that have been the only problem?i thnk the main abs was causing it too act up too,dont think i ever bled it.thanks
    Tags: None
    #2
    I guess your brake lines. The rubber ones going from the wheel walls to the calipers.
    MRT
    37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
    30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
    27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

    Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

    Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
    Originally posted by Tippey764
    I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
    Originally posted by deevergote
    sneaky motherfucker

    Comment

      #3
      the grabbing could be bad calipers...i had that happen to me..and the smoke could be from brake fluid leaking onto the rotors or pads during bleeding...the master cylinder is a good place to start though...if that doesnt fix it just use process of elimination and work your way down to the calipers as they are not cheap and the next time it does it feel the wheel to see if its hotter than the others...thats one way to see if the calipers are seizing on you

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by dailydriVen View Post
        the grabbing could be bad calipers...i had that happen to me..and the smoke could be from brake fluid leaking onto the rotors or pads during bleeding...the master cylinder is a good place to start though...if that doesnt fix it just use process of elimination and work your way down to the calipers as they are not cheap and the next time it does it feel the wheel to see if its hotter than the others...thats one way to see if the calipers are seizing on you
        X2...calipers need to be changed

        Comment

          #5
          Please try and keep the information to only one thread otherwise people start to get confused.

          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=171341


          Find out which brake is sticking, and then find out why.
          The brake hose is probably internally collapsed.


          Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

          My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

          A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

          If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

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            #6
            Today i tested all the abs fuses with a tester under the hood and all of them were working except for the 7.5 one.there was power under the fuse socket but not on top of the fuse,so i bent the fuse socket then it was power on top.but now the abs light is on and staying on once the car is started.wat does the 7.5 fuse do?i also tested the big 12v fuse.its to the abs pump i think?then i checked the abs unit in the trunk and bled the master cylinder again.and now the the abs light doesnt come on at all even when i turn the key.is that good or bad?everytime i pull out the driveway i usually hear a quaking noise from the abs,i dont hear anything now.does anyone know how to check codes for the abs unit?thanks

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by xyzse View Post
              Today i tested all the abs fuses with a tester under the hood and all of them were working except for the 7.5 one.there was power under the fuse socket but not on top of the fuse,so i bent the fuse socket then it was power on top.but now the abs light is on and staying on once the car is started.wat does the 7.5 fuse do?i also tested the big 12v fuse.its to the abs pump i think?then i checked the abs unit in the trunk and bled the master cylinder again.and now the the abs light doesnt come on at all even when i turn the key.is that good or bad?everytime i pull out the driveway i usually hear a quaking noise from the abs,i dont hear anything now.does anyone know how to check codes for the abs unit?thanks
              The same way you would for everything else. Bridge the connector.

              To be honest, it sounds like you've messed something up pretty bad.
              MRT
              37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
              30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
              27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

              Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

              Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
              Originally posted by Tippey764
              I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
              Originally posted by deevergote
              sneaky motherfucker

              Comment

                #8
                I would check your caliper slide pins. One or more could be seized causing the caliper to not retract when you let off the brakes.

                member's ride thread
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                91 Accord SE 176k
                97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

                Comment

                  #9
                  If your pads are wearing unevenly it could be a warped caliper. Had that happen before on an exs car. The brake pads rubbed so hard that it made the rotors red hot and burn the brakes.

                  if not then the piston in the caliper could be stuck either because it's old/failing or there's a problem with the brake line. (happened to another ex She had one that wouldn't compress the pads and one that compressed them all the time. what's the odds of that? haha)

                  regardless. I would go ahead and replace the break lines and calipers all at once. if it was a warped rotor you would have shaking and jumping when you brake. Not smoking and hard braking.
                  Last edited by blu35p4rr0w; 02-02-2011, 06:30 AM.


                  The Blue Bomber

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Losiracer2 View Post
                    I would check your caliper slide pins. One or more could be seized causing the caliper to not retract when you let off the brakes.
                    Buddy that works at Honda told me this as well, said they grease the pins up to fix a caliper grabbing issue from time to time. If your caliper is grabbing you should feel it in power loss as well ( riding with the brakes on ) and this will def cause some smoking as great amounts of heat will build up the longer you drive like this.


                    Bought from Darkcloud

                    http://wheelflip.com/r/DrAkE

                    Comment

                      #11
                      will the regular brakes work without the abs?

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by xyzse View Post
                        will the regular brakes work without the abs?
                        Yes, the pedal will be "soft" though.


                        If you are feeling DIY you could eliminate the ABS system.

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