Ok so I was driving and I don't know exactly how to explain it other then my car started bogging and i drove straight home(on my way anyway and only went about 2 miles) got there shut it off and was under the hood made sure all my plug wires were secured and fired it up again pulled the first plug out(one closed to the distributor) and immediate change in how the motor was running which I expected pulled the next one and nothing still ran just as poorly as it did with it connected plugs three and four changed the way the motor was running as well so that's good I guess I pulled the spark plug out of the second cylinder and it looked fouled so I replaced it still no change so my question is could it be just a bad valve I don't have a lot of money to take it to a shop as a whole and am hoping I can just swap the head or take the head in to be worked on I just wanna go about it the right way thanks for any advice
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Dead cylinder?? Possibly
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Try swapping cylinder 3 & 4's plug wire, then see if the problem moves to cylinder 4. If it does, it's the wire. If it doesn't, try swapping cylinder 3 & 4's injector, if the problem moves to cylinder 4....yeah you get the point.Originally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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Then if that resolves nothing report back with a compression test.1993 SE Coupe MRT - 1992 LX Sedan MRT
93 Accord SE Bose Stereo MYTHS & FACTS - F22A* Power Plant Removal(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
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Looks like you have your answer, now the last question is, is it the head or the pistons or a head gasket. Those aren't promising numbers.1993 SE Coupe MRT - 1992 LX Sedan MRT
93 Accord SE Bose Stereo MYTHS & FACTS - F22A* Power Plant Removal(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
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Originally posted by honda4674 View PostI did a leak down and air is rushing out of my exhaust pipe so it's an exhaust vale correct?
Although if you only have 130 psi in the other cylinders, that's not all that hot either. Did the wet test significantly increase the psi in the other 3 cylinders? You might need both rings and head work.
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My Mac Tools compression tester kit says to always test compression while the engine is at operating temp to allow for proper expansion and seating of the rings. So I run it or drive it until the gauge is in the middle, then test.
I know several people who say it doesn't matter, but I disagree. I always do my compression tests at operating temp.
How did you do yours?
I guess I never looked at what Honda recommends... I think I'm usually 210-220 across the board when I check mine.
Obviously you have a bad valve, burnt valve, something like that, but consider re-checking your other cylinders while your at it.
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well
as the all hail mighty deeve would say take it to shop he never ever seen a oily camshaft makes me sick how should u run a site mycb7is taking shape there will be over 300 diys so.shops can be avoided cause its a waste of money and its fun to work on ya own shiet!Originally posted by deevergoteThis thread is over a year old, you fucking retard.
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