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jdm92_accorn : 1992 Accord LX

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    Thought I'd share some interesting datalogs on my 64mm vs my 70mm throttle body about 30mins apart.
    Last edited by jdm92_accorn; 11-07-2013, 02:04 AM.

    MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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      So wait... You ran with the 64mm and then swapped to 70mm? Looking at intake temps id say your sucking in some hotter air with the 70mm

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        The map sensor was also reading less consistent. These runs were less than 30minutes apart aswell. This tells me the 64mm is moving the air at a faster rate. If the air moves faster it has less time to heat soak. So to everyone jumping on the 70mil bandwagon on a stock engine might want to reconsider. Also a heads up. I'm going back to using the superflow dyno, so number will read low but it'll give a good comparisson to show gains or losses. Just add 5% to get dynojet numbers, lol.

        MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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          well ive got to re-wrap my header and fix my exhaust leak. its robbing my scavenging.

          MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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            Nice work on the 13 second pass. Thanks for the info on the 70mm throttle body too. Great stuff!

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              Thanks. BTW, have you drove the lude before and after the lsd? Does it seem to add some stability to the front?

              MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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                Funny you should ask. I barely installed the transmission last weekend along with my esp traction bar and torque mount.

                First drive I killed it at a stop. OE clutch but the lsd just made the tires grip and pull, wasn't even getting on it either.

                My battery was dead as well so after killing it we had to push start it and 1st gear pull was smooth, I don't know if it was the traction bar or the lsd but it grabbed, no spinning at all, and I had on some regular toyos on 15" wheels.

                I need to see if I can get you a video of a pull to show you the traction and the difference the 4.64 final drive made. It's just been hard because the car is missing doors, bumpers, hood, trunk, fenders, and lights so I can't really drive it around town or even break in the tranny....

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                  i found out that the T2W4 trans has the 10bolt pattern diff. so i can save some money. im just going to do either the .787 5th with 4.64 FD or .685 5th with 5.15 FD i think this coupled with the esp traction bar and the rest of my suspension mods ive got planned it'll feel solid and pull smooth and hopefully hard. the 4.64 is roughly a 8.7% increase in torque multiplication and the 5.15 is roughly 20.7% increase. not to mention the tighter gear set of the T2W4. i really wish i could get a custom 1st gear. if i had a 2.85 first, this thing would be a rocket ship. with all that it'd probably run 13.5-13.6's on 225/45/15. ive been looking into toyo R888's for a track/strip tire. they're more for really high grip street/track application but i dont see them being totally useless at a drag strip.

                  MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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                    I would suggest either bfg g force ta drag radials, or mt et street slicks. I've seen both of those make really good improvements on 60' times on some of my friends cars.

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                      i thought about the et streets. im just wondering after the trans and suspension if slicks will even be necessary until over 220whp. i really want an all around performer not just a 1/4 mile sled. i like 1/4 mile but i also like to play on winding roads and VIR when i get the chance.

                      MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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                        In that case Azenis are hard to beat for the price.

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                          I'll look into them. I mainly want the toyo R888's because of the size I want, 225/45/15.

                          MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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                            Well I'm finally looking into my pistons. K24Z3 pistons it is. $310 for bore, hone, pistons and rings. Then acl race bearings are $100 plus gaskets and ect are another $100. $600ish should net a little over 200whp on the superflow and 211ish on a dynojet. I'd like to try an e85 tune aswell. It'd be pretty badass to make 210whp+ on oem internals. I still need to do a balance shaft delete. Then maybe a 100shot, lol. That'd be a sleeper for sure. With traction it should easily mark high 11sec territory.

                            MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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                              Why not just use the k20a2 pistons? No boring required and easy 215+ ponies at the wheels. Throw on a nice direct port 100 shot and you got the meanest non turbo single cam accord out there. Easy 12 second car with good traction.

                              Comment


                                The compression would be too high for one, for two the K20A2 pistons are dome and K24Z3 is a dish piston which will give adequate compression for pump gas while maintaining a more equal flame travel. Then there's the 50cc more displacement. Shoot with a level 3 cam, ported head, balance shaft delete and e85 I might even pull off 240whp without spray.

                                MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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