What material do you plan to use as anti squeak between tank straps and tank?
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H311RA151N : 1986 Ford F-250 XL
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1993 SE Coupe MRT - 1992 LX Sedan MRT
93 Accord SE Bose Stereo MYTHS & FACTS - F22A* Power Plant Removal(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
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I ordered GM Parts tank anti-squeak strips from LMC Truck because they were the only place I could find it. It reminds me of tar paper that is used on roofing but not as sticky. I took a picture of it and I'll try and upload it.1993 SE Coupe MRT - 1992 LX Sedan MRT
93 Accord SE Bose Stereo MYTHS & FACTS - F22A* Power Plant Removal(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
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Originally posted by wildBill83 View PostI ordered GM Parts tank anti-squeak strips from LMC Truck because they were the only place I could find it. It reminds me of tar paper that is used on roofing but not as sticky. I took a picture of it and I'll try and upload it.
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neoprene rubber strip (tape) might find some in the roofing supply area locally
or online, I dont know how wide or long your bands are.. heres an example
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rubber-Neopr...item58b63bf352
they have all sorts of dimensions..or if you know someone with some scrap EPDM rubber roofing, that shit would work well.
Perhaps even some blackjack (plastic roof patch) coated on the straps before installation, would make a good rust barrier...whatevers cheapest wins in my book lmao.
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Originally posted by illinois_erik View Postneoprene rubber strip (tape) might find some in the roofing supply area locally
or online, I dont know how wide or long your bands are.. heres an example
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rubber-Neopr...item58b63bf352
they have all sorts of dimensions..or if you know someone with some scrap EPDM rubber roofing, that shit would work well.
Perhaps even some blackjack (plastic roof patch) coated on the straps before installation, would make a good rust barrier...whatevers cheapest wins in my book lmao.
Last edited by H311RA151N; 12-11-2014, 09:16 PM.
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Originally posted by RyanD View Posti already know all the info you blacked out
I guess the worst thing someone could do is have me swatted. But if anyone knows me very well they know that that would result in my death and the death of at least the first officer that busted through my door. So if someone hates me enough to have me and another innocent person(s) killed then be my guest.
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Why goop it or buy the wrong thing? The right part is $5... I attached a screen shot of the part number and cost from LMC. (Item 18 in the diagram)
I have received a few hard to find OEM items from LMC Truck and have been happy with their shipping too. They have always sent me genuine parts with GM stickers, I don't see why they wouldn't send you genuine Ford parts. They also have that brass float you were looking for in stock (item 10 for $5.95).
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=57 <- link to the location for your goodies.
The photo was corrupted that I took, but the material is made for the job and the environment. I personally wouldn't substitute.Last edited by wildBill83; 11-19-2014, 09:42 AM.1993 SE Coupe MRT - 1992 LX Sedan MRT
93 Accord SE Bose Stereo MYTHS & FACTS - F22A* Power Plant Removal(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
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Originally posted by wildBill83 View Post
Why goop it or buy the wrong thing? The right part is $5... I attached a screen shot of the part number and cost from LMC. (Item 18 in the diagram)
I have received a few hard to find OEM items from LMC Truck and have been happy with their shipping too. They have always sent me genuine parts with GM stickers, I don't see why they wouldn't send you genuine Ford parts. They also have that brass float you were looking for in stock (item 10 for $5.95).
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=57 <- link to the location for your goodies.
The photo was corrupted that I took, but the material is made for the job and the environment. I personally wouldn't substitute.
On the pump I talked with a guy on FTE that was in the same predicament as I was a couple years ago. LMC sent him an E350 pump when he ordered the pump for his 85 F250 and swore up and down it was the right pump even though it looked nothing like their own illustration.
I would have liked to have known that they had that brass float. I'm sure (hopefully anyways) they wouldn't mess that up.
I went to my neighbor who done a frame off restoration on his '76 F100 (who is ironically also on FTE) and he had the proper material for the straps.
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The tank is in. The fuel level gauge works. And it runs off fuel in the tank. I'm so glad this part is done with.
From a bone dry tank: 5 gallons of fuel gauge pegged at empty but will run off fuel in the tank. 10 gallons of fuel gauge comes off pegged empty and moves to the "E" or empty line. 15 gallons of fuel the gauge moves to 3/4 of a tank. 20 gallons and the gauge reads full. So actually it reads empty at 1/4 of a tank or there about. Being a 7.5l 460 I guess it safer that way.
So glad to see this...
Last edited by H311RA151N; 12-11-2014, 09:17 PM.
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Super pissed this morning. I put ATF in the transfer case and gear oil in the transmission and fired it up. A few minutes later I noticed my damn fuel gauge reads empty...
After all the hell I had with the rear tank I'm like fuck that POS. I assume the new float had a pin hole in it. Going to wait until I cool off before I talk to the seller to resolve the issue.
So, the front tank has (or had) a hole in it. So I took some sand paper to the visible hole in the front tank (which I now think may have been deliberately done by the previous owner) and clean up the area real well, took a dime and some liquid steel and patched it. I let it cure while I went to the gas station to get two 5 gallon gas cans filled to test the tank and pump.
The front tank doesn't leak with the hole fixed. That's good. But the level sensor doesn't work and neither does the pump. How I know is because I flipped the switch for the front tank and the engine ran out of fuel. So my fuel selector valve works. That's good...
But now I'm going to knock a hole in the tank, drain the fuel, pull the tank and replace the pump assembly with one a guy from FTE is bringing me in just a little bit.
What a pain the the ass...
I know knocking a hole in the tank isn't the best idea but the way the metal fuel hose piece is you cannot get a siphon down in the tank.
I got the idea of using a dime and liquid steel from a hole that had been patched in the rear tank I found. It works.
Yeah, I stayed up all night but it's because it was 40* F all night and going to be warm today too. So to hell with sleep, who needs it.
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I'm so tired I can barely think straight so lets see if I can get this right.
I got the fuel pump assembly for the front tank from a dude I met on FTE.
I removed the front tank to install the fuel pump assembly I received today.
Upon removal I found the top of the tank to be rusted badly as can be seen but still usable.
I got the fuel pump assembly in, and the fuel tank in.
The results:
The front tank will read the fuel level but not pump fuel to the carburetor.
The rear tank initially would just supply the fuel without giving a fuel reading.
But upon driving around the field a bit it appears to have started working. Although, it stays at the same level for both tanks... which is odd or it could be a coincidence.
What all this points to is the need a new tank selector valve. No big deal.
So what this means is I will have both tanks working and the gauge will work for both as well. Looks like I'm ending up with more than I desired! I'm not going to complain.
Here are the pics.
Last edited by H311RA151N; 12-11-2014, 09:18 PM.
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So I got the tanks working.
I know they are working correcting because it burns 1/8 of a tank as shown on the gauge idling for half an hour. I used that time to fine tune my ignition timing and tweak with the carb a little.
I also found out this bad ass feature. I have a light to check the bed of the truck and also to help me see when backing up. Just twist the headlight knob all the way counter clockwise until you hear a click.
^^^ I really need a new tailgate...Last edited by H311RA151N; 12-11-2014, 09:19 PM.
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BRAKES
Since I replaced the master cylinder and brake booster I have not had brakes because I did not bleed it afterward. Which I did purposefully, no biggie. I still drive it around the field to test the fuel tanks and such as it's easy to stop with the granny low and park brake.
I done some reading and these trucks came with 2 different rear brake set ups.
8500 and under GVWR are 2.5" rear drums/shoes. 8500 and over are 3" rear shoes. And, according to my door tag, I have the heavy duty F-250.
So today I'm going to go buy the following and get started:
Front Brake Hoses
Rear Brake Hose
Front Brake Pads
Rear Brake Shoes
Rear Wheel Cylinders
Rear Brake Hardware Kit
NAPA opens at 9:00 and Auto Zone opens at 8:00. So I'll be headed that way shortly.Last edited by H311RA151N; 12-11-2014, 09:20 PM.
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