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Nuespeed front tie-bar --- it could fit a little BETTER.

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    Nuespeed front tie-bar --- it could fit a little BETTER.

    I just installed a Nuespeed front tie-bar last night (thanks again TEckert.)

    Was a tight fit, with ALB components on one side and some cruise control pieces on the other. It helped some to remove a 10mm bolt on each side, one for one end of the ALB motor box and one that holds down three brackets on the other. But both bolts were a bit of a challenge to get back in so next time (um, like when I need to change the air filter ...) I think I'll leave them in.

    I first got both arms on one side and the other side wouldn't line up completely. Re-did it the other way and had the same problem on the other end.

    I raised the front end, to see if taking weight off would change the geometry enough to get that last amount of wiggle going to allow the bar to fit better.

    Finally was able to wiggle it on but not completely flushed down, but enough to start the bolts and tighten them. I feel kind of lucky the threads on the strut mount didn't get ruined. That would have sucked to high-heaven.

    When I started the car I immediately heard a droning that rose and fell with RPMs. Quite noticeable. Sounded like a bearing going bad in the power steering pump or somewhere close, but with this difference: I could also feel the driver's side fender vibrating slightly.

    OK --- fender vibrating = new bar making the fender vibrate = what would cause the new bar to vibrate with RPMs? I noticed the power steering pump hose touching the bar, pressed down on it to clear the bar --- sound GONE.

    Q: Would a shorter power steering belt allow the pump to be pulled closer to the head, thereby allowing the hose to better clear the bar immediately above it?
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    #2
    let me see a pic of that tie bar.

    as for ur belt question, it just depends, maybe only very little...hard to say cause when its smaller the pump moves down just slightly...what bar is it hitting?
    What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

    You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

    Retro!

    Hater

    I love nooBs...They make me look good

    Comment


      #3
      In the factory Neuspeed box (I got mine new) there is a Ziptie included with the instructions to tie the hose so that it doesn't touch the bar. Mine currently is resting on the bar again since it was taken off at the shop. That is what's causing your vibration. It's nothing to worry about.

      ...and yes, putting the bar on is a PITA. But you gotta figure over the 13-15 years our cars have been on the road the bodies have flexed, which is why the bar doesn't fit perfectly. However, IMHO its the best bar you can buy so I think its well worth it. I doubt anyone will believe me when I say this, but I was 15 mph faster in the same corner after I got the bar on stock suspension. Maybe I was just more willing to push since I felt confident and it wasn't all the car, but anyways.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by AccordWarrior
        In the factory Neuspeed box (I got mine new) there is a Ziptie included with the instructions to tie the hose so that it doesn't touch the bar. ...
        That's hysterical --- I made up the same fix Nuespeed did! I tied mine to the plastic rail that holds the (injector wires?); seemed like the closest thing that would hold the hose down away from the tie-bar.

        As I write this I haven't turned the car on again to test it, but the noise (and some vibration felt) was definitely enough to be a deal-breaker.

        Love what the bar does for steering responsiveness however. It's a very noticeable difference! Is it worth the difference over the price of a "$20 eBay bar"? Don't know, but I can easily see how that even at full retail it would be one the most significant improvements you can do for handling. If I had an H22 I'd certainly try to hack or pound at the valve cover in some way to make it work there too, but for f22 drivers it seems a no-brainer if ya got a few extra bucks.

        accordztech --- I have the car with me this afternoon and I'll try and get a pic up here since there aren't many pics of this bar.
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        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by deckeda
          That's hysterical --- I made up the same fix Nuespeed did! I tied mine to the plastic rail that holds the (injector wires?); seemed like the closest thing that would hold the hose down away from the tie-bar.

          As I write this I haven't turned the car on again to test it, but the noise (and some vibration felt) was definitely enough to be a deal-breaker.

          Love what the bar does for steering responsiveness however. It's a very noticeable difference! Is it worth the difference over the price of a "$20 eBay bar"? Don't know, but I can easily see how that even at full retail it would be one the most significant improvements you can do for handling. If I had an H22 I'd certainly try to hack or pound at the valve cover in some way to make it work there too, but for f22 drivers it seems a no-brainer if ya got a few extra bucks.

          accordztech --- I have the car with me this afternoon and I'll try and get a pic up here since there aren't many pics of this bar.
          That's the correct bundle to connect it to. I paid under retail for mine and I was more than willing to pay full retail for mine. The design itsself is why its superior to the $20 Ebay bars. But I'll leave that for another argument.

          The sad thing is it can't fit over the H22 swap. For a non-VTEC DOHC swap, you can hack at the valve cover, but for the H22 it won't clear...at least in unmodified fashion. Adam (H23Accord) tried to fit his Neu. bar over his H22 head and said he couldn't. The last I heard I think he was still trying to fit it over his swap using custom methods.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by AccordWarrior
            I doubt anyone will believe me when I say this, but I was 15 mph faster in the same corner after I got the bar on stock suspension.
            I totally believe ya. On my car with just one of the cheapest and still flexible ebay bars, I would cut SO much time off my runs. 15mph sounds like a reasonable speed as I would say my slolam exit speeds were about 10mph faster.

            When I get a welder.. 3-point bar here i come.

            Comment


              #7
              Requested pic

              You'll please ignore the filth. We put 140.mi each day on her so primping and preening ain't a part of the deal around here. TEckert got it to me as "NU PEED" but I wanted "stealth" anyway so I scraped off the rest.

              If the main bar appears slightly bowed to the firewall, I think it is now that it's installed.


              Passenger side. Front arm barely touches air filter box, but I don't know if that's a noise source yet (I haven't started the car since the zip tie fix.)


              Driver's side. Tie-bar forces power steering hose against cam cover, but at least Honda already provides some protection on the hose for this. I'm not thrilled with the ghetto-style zip tie fix, not because of how it looks but because of the stress it puts on the plastic rail it pulls up. Maybe if the P/S hose were about 3 inches longer it could reach around the other side of the arm. And yeah, I forgot to tuck the tie-bar beneath the cruise control cable.



              More notes:
              I'm glad I haven't yet had the car aligned after replacing springs 'n' shocks last month --- because I can tell the tie-bar changed it anyway (pulls now to one side a little more) by pulling everything back together tight.

              The steering is now so direct that it's as if the steering gear is quicker. I can only imagine that if such a bar had come stock, car mags might have made BMW comparisons as far as steering response goes. Much of the squriminess is gone --- and I'm still rockin' worn out bushings and ball joints. Them's next.
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              Comment


                #8
                Whoa...Deckeda...that's not how the bar is supposed to go on the side with the power steering. The power steering line is suppsed to run through the bar. You then ziptie it to the cruise control cable to keep it off the bar.

                Lemme see if I can dig up a picture of mine.



                See how my PS line runs under one point of the brace and over the other point. That's how its supposed to be run via the instructions. Then you ziptie the PS line to the cruise cable (evident now that I see your pictures).

                EDIT: Mine didn't bow like yours did either...strange.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Mine is setup more like Accordwarriors too. I have it zipped to cruise control cable (which is what I think the instructions say to do), and it is stiff enough to keep the PS hose down without interfering with the functioning of the CC.

                  I wouldn't zip it to the fuel rail harness, that wiring gets sensitive, trust me.

                  Also, it is a pain to install, took two big guys to tweak the bar enough to fit. That is actually good, as it is a stiff structural member, but also places a load on the shock towers. You want them loaded, because then the force is always on the bar, which allows it to do its job.

                  Also, I would recommend putting locktite on the the nuts that hold the bar down, otherwise you will be periodically retightening them. It isn't a big deal, you will hear it start to rattle when it gets to that point, but that way you don't have to worry about it.
                  The OFFICIAL how to add me to your ignore list thread!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    here's another shot

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yikes! Between the power steering hose flub and the cruise cable flub, it's obvious I rushed this job. I even went to Nuespeed's site but they only had downloadable instructions for other bars. Oh well, price you pay for a used item I guess.

                      Glad I posted those pix. Thanks for the reference shots fellas, I appreciate it.
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                      Comment


                        #12
                        dude thats not a tie bar!!!!!!!
                        What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

                        You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

                        Retro!

                        Hater

                        I love nooBs...They make me look good

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Technically it is a tie bar. It is tying two suspension points together. It is commonly known as a strut tower bar, but both terms are functionally correct.
                          The OFFICIAL how to add me to your ignore list thread!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by accordztech
                            dude thats not a tie bar!!!!!!!
                            I called it "tie-bar" because that's what Nuespeed calls it. At any rate it ties together the chassis more than does a bar for just the strut towers.

                            Update: I re-installed it today. Not quite as much of a bitch this time, but again, raising the car was the key. Got a little worried at one point when one control arm bushing stud got pushed down; had to take off that side's wheel to get in there and push it back up.

                            What I did for the zip tie treatment was to use two of them, one on either side of the cruise cable's bracket. That way it reduces stress on the cruise cable. Now, there is NO sound at all; the whining is gone (both from the car and from me.)

                            The key is to not pull the zip ties all the way tight --- to do so would enable vibration from the hose to transmit to the fender area = not good. Now, the hose "floats" between cruise cable and bar.
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                            Comment


                              #15
                              Good to hear that you got it worked out! I know you will love it. I haven't had any trouble with mine at all.

                              When I eventually do my swap, I will find combination of bars that will work with an H22. Otherwise, I will just make my own, but the design is so much better, that I just couldn't go to the cheap flexible ones. The only improvement would be if it tied to the firewall as well.
                              The OFFICIAL how to add me to your ignore list thread!

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