Are there any such places that will rent out a full impact wrench setup, compressors, hoses, the wrench and anything else? I am having one hell of a time getting the axle nut and I have no friends with a impact setup that is able to remove it. I have tried searching for anything but all I am getting is industrial equipment.
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I have and now I have a new and shiny beating stick that use to be a breaker bar. At least it is shinier than this lead pipe I found.Originally posted by Nyne521 View Posti'm not sure but have you tried putting the wheel back on with no center cap and lowering back down... then using a prybar with a cheater bar on it? When i did mine i had a 3 ft. prybar and a 4 ft. cheater bar on that to break it loose... it sucked... lol
And Stoner, what is the brand you have so I know what to pickup when I go to store tomorrow?Be unique, like every other person.
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this one. I know they just had it on sale for 39.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-e...nch-68099.html
steve
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Perfect. Also stoner, I was following your transmission swap, I see what power steering hoses you are talking about how did you bypass them.Be unique, like every other person.
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Because I have no money.Originally posted by Nyne521 View Postthis is why i love my IR titanium gun... 1200ft/lbs of break away torque is no joke it hasn't let me down yet... but it wasn't cheap either. I use it for work tho so why not spend the moneyBe unique, like every other person.
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i meant I figured why not spend the money... lol that wasn't directed at you, sorry.Originally posted by XCRN View PostBecause I have no money.
I'm not quite sure on that electric gun since it doesn't list the break away torque. I'd give it a shot but keep the receipt... lol
Hope it works for you getting stuck when doing a job like this is frustrating. I know
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Well I signed onto this when I bought a 20 year old car.Be unique, like every other person.
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If your car is still mobile then I suggest just go to your nearest shop and have them break it loose then re tighten it for you. The rust behind the nut can sometimes make it feel like the two pieces have fused together. Then really only an impact has the torque to handle the job.
I've gone through 3 HF electric impact wrenches. I've heard some like Stoner that have had good experiences with them but not me.
I've also had to use a 3/4 HF breaker bar (1/2 inch craftsman bars kept breaking), 1 7/16 socket (36 mm was not available at the time) and 4ft cheater bar with my 250 lbs bouncing
on it to loosen it. Surprisingly it took about 4-5 bounces before it broke loose. One tip is to use a jack stand under the head of the breaker bar when using it with a short extension (if needed).
Last edited by Tishock; 08-28-2013, 12:51 AM.

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That was an idea while it is not runnable at the moment it should not take more than an hour to put it back. Though the driver nut looks as if it was unstaked before and the outer rim was cut, so who knows how long ago. I will give the HF wrench a try first and if not I will get it to a big mo-fo to loosen it.Be unique, like every other person.
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There are two power steering hoses that go into the Speed sensor. I just took one and connected it to the hardline. Just looping the line.
They are in the back of the engine bay, on the driver side on the subframe.
Also try some pb blaster on the nuts. I usually hit it with pb blaster the night before I am going to do the job. And you will need friend to help you put the tranny in. Unless you are lucky. No other way to describe it.
steve
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I once broke every half inch breaker, and ratchet I had on an axle nut. My 600 ft/lbs impact was not even close. It was the only time I torched, about a tank of gas later it broke. So heat works. I just needed a new wheel bearing, brake rotor and cv joint. If yours is frozen due to heat from the bearing or somebody running the brakes down to the metal for a long time. You need heat to remove it.......father in law has it back again. Time to shine
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