I done flat black on my eg ahha! it did came out very well. I think I should sanddown the hood before spraying it. Few members done it here, just know what are you doing.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
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has anyone painted there own?
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Here's what rexload did with his CB with a roller.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=116931
Member's Ride Thread
Originally posted by mercyboyI'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car then win by an inch because someone else built it for me..your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book!
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I repainted mine, but alot comes into play when considering this.
Truly i did save money but at the same time i had to take advantage of the auto body class offered to my school. It provied me a place with tools , and proper ventilation and oven.
In total i payed about 750 800 dollars. this includes all cost except the bumper i pulled from the junk yard and the after market hood.
other than that it was about...
tape, 3/4 and 2 inch
Dual action sander paper ,80,180
wetsanding paper
bondo
primer
catalizts
clear coat,
acetone,
spreaders.
the paint which was 85 a qrt for me.
not the complete list
Theres is a good list, but you cannot take these items and expect a flat rate, different areas , different prices and different materials according to what you need to do your car, in my case i needed some dents pulled which i had done thanks to a stud gun, which was acquired in class. other than that you would have to pay for your tools and way to bake the car and a clean place to work.
Personally if i didnt have a proper place to work or tools i would not attempt this in a garage for how easy it is to f!@# up. It really is easy.
Here what i got after i finished, im very glad, its not perfect, i already spot some small bubbling from the result of some one touching bare metal and not properly wiping it down with degreaser, i worked mainly on my own car but other students did touch my car.
Last edited by Paradien; 12-17-2009, 07:45 PM.
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Originally posted by evil_demon_01 View PostNo help, no links, telling to search, and nothing useful to add to the thread - See you in a week.
OP - I painted my CB. Do you have any experience painting with a gun? Do you know about the different paint types? Do you know what color type you want (Metallic, pearl, pure etc?) preparation is the main key point in painting cars.
This was my CB after final wetsand and buff of top half of door.
And whole car -
It looks very nice.Bisimoto Engineering
1) Call 1-888-9BC-MOTO(888-922-6686 ext. 1) Mon-Fri 9am-6pm PST
2) Email me, robert@bisimoto.com
3) Contact me on AIM, robert@bisimoto.com
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Originally posted by Paradien View PostI repainted mine, but alot comes into play when considering this.
Truly i did save money but at the same time i had to take advantage of the auto body class offered to my school. It provied me a place with tools , and proper ventilation and oven.
In total i payed about 750 800 dollars. this includes all cost except the bumper i pulled from the junk yard and the after market hood.
other than that it was about...
tape, 3/4 and 2 inch
Dual action sander paper ,80,180
wetsanding paper
bondo
primer
catalizts
clear coat,
acetone,
spreaders.
the paint which was 85 a qrt for me.
not the complete list
Theres is a good list, but you cannot take these items and expect a flat rate, different areas , different prices and different materials according to what you need to do your car, in my case i needed some dents pulled which i had done thanks to a stud gun, which was acquired in class. other than that you would have to pay for your tools and way to bake the car and a clean place to work.
Personally if i didnt have a proper place to work or tools i would not attempt this in a garage for how easy it is to f!@# up. It really is easy.
Here what i got after i finished, im very glad, its not perfect, i already spot some small bubbling from the result of some one touching bare metal and not properly wiping it down with degreaser, i worked mainly on my own car but other students did touch my car.
to the OP. If I were you I would paint my car using a roller since it is cheap and easy at the same time. juts give it a try I have seen some cars come out excellent.
Originally posted by visualpoetsome owners think it's the best thing since titties
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Originally posted by Shadow1 View Postive been following that guy on H-T for a few months now. that civic he used the gun to paint it. theres another he used the paint roller but with the same results. but all of his projects look good tho. like a professional paint job too.90 ACCORD EX..<-- MR thread
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yea im going to try it. i wish it was still my DD and not a project xaaronxx. i will upload pics soon of just the car now. it just sits by my garage but about to go in soon!!! i already ripped out the back seats,the shift linkage(puttin a 5-speed in), and disconected all wires so the engine will be ready to pull for rebuild!. its going to be a track car. i live in the houston area and they have a couple of events
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Originally posted by Shadow1 View Postthat looks good Evil....what did you use to paint with?
Next year I plan on going over it with 2K clear so that I don't have to buff / polish it so often.
Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks
My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute
A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.
If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.
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DIY on Rolling.
http://rollyourcar.com/default.aspx
Member's Ride Thread
Originally posted by mercyboyI'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car then win by an inch because someone else built it for me..your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book!
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Originally posted by evil_demon_01 View PostI used 4 coats lacquer primer, 3 coats lacquer base, and 4 coats lacquer clear.
Next year I plan on going over it with 2K clear so that I don't have to buff / polish it so often.
I'd advise you not to do that, 2k over laquer is a verry bad idea, your paint you have now will cook up and lift like crazzy., if your venturing into the world of 2k products, you need to remove all your laquer products first."Self Renewed"
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Originally posted by KeeleDesign View Posthold up...................
I'd advise you not to do that, 2k over laquer is a verry bad idea, your paint you have now will cook up and lift like crazzy., if your venturing into the world of 2k products, you need to remove all your laquer products first.
Thanks for the advice Keele's, I'd take your advice over anyone's.
However - When you say 2k over lacquer is bad what exactly do you mean?
I've done 3 cars now, and known many other people to do it (even honda used to do it) with lacquer base and then 2k clear with no issues.
But I havn't done 2k clear over Lacquer clear yet - Is that what you mean?
Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks
My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute
A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.
If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.
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for the life of a 2K, paint, lets put it this way. a good quality 2k paint, continues to get hard for 90 days before it's completely cured,
This means that the primer, the paint and the clear keep shrinking closer and closer to the adhered surfice, showing all imperfections after 90 days, and it had a death drip on your car.
Laquer products, do not ever really completely cure to a rock solid form, it stays somewhat flexibly soft, not fingerprint soft, but one reason it needs to be waxed and buffed more often, is because it expands and contracts around twice the amount as the metal and polyurathane bumpers do.
now, if you put a high soild 2K product over laquer guess whats going to happen.
the top layer is going to try and shrink in tight to the base and the laquer is going to slighhtly mover, causing your 2k product to litterly split open and have cracks in your paint,
if your lucky it won't do anything for a year but then it will most likely crows foot at the least.
Although it is possible to spray a good 2k product over just laquer primer, don't get me wrong, but even this will fail within a year or 2 as they are not designed to adhere to each other.
If you are not carefull and spray really heavy like i do, as spraying really heavy and wet creates much slicker paint jobs, your reduced paint such as ppg deltron will litterly cook up the the laquer primer before it is even cleared.
I the ideal thing is to stick with what your product is designed for, mismatching products can work sometimes, but unless your a chemist, I'd leave the chemistry to the professionals and head the labels advice with what products to use.
edit: i added this to the new paint faqs,Last edited by KeeleDesign; 12-20-2009, 10:18 AM."Self Renewed"
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