Front end minor damage, headlight differences

[Tuner513]

At some point before I owned this cb something has either hit the front end or some dumb*** drove into something slightly taller than the front bumper. I don't have my pictures up yet(tomorrow) but I don't think it will be to bad to fix. Does the whole doghouse disassemble? If so, repair shouldn't take long. But while looking at parts to make my front end stand out, I came across some jdm 1 piece headlights that are gonna look mean as hell with the scheme I'm going for but my lx is a usdm and I have 2 piece headlights. Will the jdm's bold right in? Or is there any modifications needed, major or minor, to get them to fit?

[Tuner513]

At some point before I owned this cb something has either hit the front end or some dumb*** drove into something slightly taller than the front bumper. I don't have my pictures up yet(tomorrow) but I don't think it will be to bad to fix. Does the whole doghouse disassemble? If so, repair shouldn't take long. But while looking at parts to make my front end stand out, I came across some jdm 1 piece headlights that are gonna look mean as hell with the scheme I'm going for but my lx is a usdm and I have 2 piece headlights. Will the jdm's bold right in? Or is there any modifications needed, major or minor, to get them to fit?

I forgot, the damage is also apperent due to the fact that the drivers side hood hinge is completely broken

[Fleetw00d]

How much damage is there? The hood, bumper, and fenders come off. The upper center radiator support and vertical piece the hood latch is attached to come off, but the rest of the radiator support (either side of the radiator behind the headlights) is part of the body.

Post some pictures or bring it by.

[deevergote]

Depending on the degree of damage, you may never get your front end to be straight again. I got rid of my car after it was hit in the front, because the whole thing was off.

Anyway, the only differences are between the 90-91 models and the 92-93 models. JDM lights will bolt right in with very minor modification, as long as they are of the same year grouping. If you want to put 92-93 lights on a 90-91, or vice versa, you're going to have to get a bumper and grille to match.

[Tuner513]

I went and seen Fleetwood lastnight because he is only 20 minutes away and we checked out the damage. On the driver side where the upper radiator support bolts to the front end is pushed in towards the engine half an inch. He said he has fixed worse. I believe I can fix it. As soon as I get my phone to stop acting stupid I will post pics for a better understanding of what's going on with my car

[Fleetw00d]

Depending on the degree of damage, you may never get your front end to be straight again. I got rid of my car after it was hit in the front, because the whole thing was off.

Based on what I saw, it took a hit above the bumper (grille, hood, and headlights had been replaced; fenders appeared OK). The radiator supports were pushed back some, but it's not like the front end took a major hit that bent the structure to which the suspension is mounted.

[oni_cb7]

Based on what I saw, it took a hit above the bumper (grille, hood, and headlights had been replaced; fenders appeared OK). The radiator supports were pushed back some, but it's not like the front end took a major hit that bent the structure to which the suspension is mounted.

Trying to pull the radiator support out could help (I've done it four separate times), but it will be extremely hard to get everything to line up correctly. This is from experience. Unless you have the proper body-shop tools. A come-along and a small sledgehammer with a piece of wood will only get you so far. Plus, you will only be guessing at where everything needs to be if you don't take measurements from a car that's never been hit.

Some areas of the support may be pushed in more than others and trying to pull it may pull areas more than they need to be.

Good luck.

[dhill_cb7]

I rear ended a Chrysler 300 a few years back. I ended up getting the shop(because i was young and inexperienced) to pull my frame out(that is what they told me) because the radiator support was pushed in.

My radiator ended up leaking a few months later when it started to get cold. Just be careful that other parts may have been damaged but not replaced. As that is what happened to me.....

I was at DCCC and came out to a massive antifreeze puddle under my car... Luckily I was able to put water in and drive it home to do the necessary repairs.

Hopefully you can get some pictures up to show us the damage. Good luck man i hope you can fix her so she doesn't go to the JY.

[Fleetw00d]

Trying to pull the radiator support out could help (I've done it four separate times), but it will be extremely hard to get everything to line up correctly. This is from experience. Unless you have the proper body-shop tools. A come-along and a small sledgehammer with a piece of wood will only get you so far. Plus, you will only be guessing at where everything needs to be if you don't take measurements from a car that's never been hit.

He stopped by here for measurements off one of mine.

[Tuner513]

I rear ended a Chrysler 300 a few years back. I ended up getting the shop(because i was young and inexperienced) to pull my frame out(that is what they told me) because the radiator support was pushed in.

My radiator ended up leaking a few months later when it started to get cold. Just be careful that other parts may have been damaged but not replaced. As that is what happened to me.....

I was at DCCC and came out to a massive antifreeze puddle under my car... Luckily I was able to put water in and drive it home to do the necessary repairs.

Hopefully you can get some pictures up to show us the damage. Good luck man i hope you can fix her so she doesn't go to the JY.

It's definitely not going to the junk yard. Sure she looks rough due to the fact that the driver side headlight support needs to come out about a half inch, it had a front bumper and hood that don't match the rest of the car, and I only have 3 wheels that match but the undercarriage is one of the cleanest I've seen and hardly has any rust in the rear quarters. By the time I fix everything and make modifications to suit me, it will still be less expensive than a new car. When it warms up I plan on pulling the front bumper off and completely assessing the damage. Worst case scenario is I have to replace the bulkhead where the upper radiator support bolts to the car. I think I might just do that anyway so that all the metal is new and straight. Fleetwood knows what I would need to complete such a task as he a done it himself. Junkyard?? NEVER!!!!

[Tuner513]

http://honda.dealerdirectparts.com/v...es/4420040.gif
So far I need the top 3 pieces and a spot welder to do the repairs I need. I've decided that I don't care what the weather is like tomorrow, the front bumper is coming off to assess what I need and to get feedback from members.

[Fleetw00d]

Piece number 5 just bolts on. Parts 2 and 3 (at least from Honda) come as one piece (top and headlight bucket). All are listed on Majestic's site (www.hondaautomotiveparts.com) as discontinued, but may be available aftermarket. Cheapest way to go about it would be to cut them from an intact car, then patiently cut the spot welds.

[Tuner513]

Piece number 5 just bolts on. Parts 2 and 3 (at least from Honda) come as one piece (top and headlight bucket). All are listed on Majestic's site (www.hondaautomotiveparts.com) as discontinued, but may be available aftermarket. Cheapest way to go about it would be to cut them from an intact car, then patiently cut the spot welds.

The EX that I pulled the K member from would be perfect but I need to do some research on cutting spot welds

[Fleetw00d]

The EX that I pulled the K member from would be perfect but I need to do some research on cutting spot welds

Check out www.eastwood.com; they have several spot weld cutters. One is like a small hole saw that you can cut through just one side of the joint, but is leaves a small nub of metal in the center that needs to be ground down. I've also had trouble with these breaking teeth fairly easily. The other is like a small end mill (http://www.eastwood.com/spotweld-drill-3-8-pro.html); if you're careful with it, you can cut through just one layer and separate the panels. On your car, you cut from the damaged side to remove the damaged panels. On the donor pieces (which you cut from the car beyond the joints you need), you work from the opposite side so you're left with two good panels to weld together.

[Tuner513]

Check out www.eastwood.com; they have several spot weld cutters. One is like a small hole saw that you can cut through just one side of the joint, but is leaves a small nub of metal in the center that needs to be ground down. I've also had trouble with these breaking teeth fairly easily. The other is like a small end mill (http://www.eastwood.com/spotweld-drill-3-8-pro.html); if you're careful with it, you can cut through just one layer and separate the panels. On your car, you cut from the damaged side to remove the damaged panels. On the donor pieces (which you cut from the car beyond the joints you need), you work from the opposite side so your left with two good panels to weld together.

I'm gonna pull everything off the front tomorrow and see how many spot welds there are and take some pictures. I should be able to get good parts at pull and pay. They still have 3 or 4 cb7's that I didn't get time to look at the last time I was there