Hooking up components and subs

[H3ad tr9p]

I already know what subs I plan on purchasing and amps. I'm getting a 720 watt 4 channel for my components and two mono block amps, one for each 12" sub. Now my question is how to wire these. I know the simple wiring but do you spit the remote wire to go to all 3 amps? Or will running it off one amp do the trick? Also how would I wire both the monos? Daisy chain? Or get one of those blocks that come off the terminal and each individual amp is wired to the battery? I know the basic install but I'm trying to learn how to get a full 2 component system and two pounding 12" subs all together safely and easily without burning my car up or frying anything. Last question where can I mount all these amps to where they can be hidden. I think I seen a thread saying under the back seat? Hope you all can help I plan to learn allot in due time on this forum!

[Raf99]

I already know what subs I plan on purchasing and amps. I'm getting a 720 watt 4 channel for my components and two mono block amps, one for each 12" sub. Now my question is how to wire these. I know the simple wiring but do you spit the remote wire to go to all 3 amps? Or will running it off one amp do the trick? Also how would I wire both the monos? Daisy chain? Or get one of those blocks that come off the terminal and each individual amp is wired to the battery? I know the basic install but I'm trying to learn how to get a full 2 component system and two pounding 12" subs all together safely and easily without burning my car up or frying anything. Last question where can I mount all these amps to where they can be hidden. I think I seen a thread saying under the back seat? Hope you all can help I plan to learn allot in due time on this forum!

I will help ya out. First some subwoofer diagrams

I almost have the same setup as you. I run a 1000W Class-D mono AMP for my two 10" subs and a 300W 4-channel amp for 2 600W alpine speakers.

I should stress that if you do not know what you are doing or feel comfortable with doing this you should have it done by a professional. You can burn your car to the ground if done improper!

I already know what subs I plan on purchasing and amps. I'm getting a 720 watt 4 channel for my components and two mono block amps, one for each 12" sub. Now my question is how to wire these. I know the simple wiring but do you spit the remote wire to go to all 3 amps? Or will running it off one amp do the trick?
See the wiring diagrams posted above for wiring the subs. That is fairly easy. The remote wire can be run in a series, all the amps need is a signal from that wire. I run the remote wire to one amp, then from that amp to the other amp.

Also how would I wire both the monos? Daisy chain? Or get one of those blocks that come off the terminal and each individual amp is wired to the battery?
In reference to power for all these amps, you will need a power distribution block, in-line fuses or circuit breaker. From the battery > circuit break (as close to battery as possible) > long wire to the trunk > distribution block > then 3 power wires to each amp. Each of these lines running to the amps should have an in-line fuse. This is to protect things in-case the line develops a fault in it. You will need to determine the proper AWG wire to use for each power wire run.

Last question where can I mount all these amps to where they can be hidden. I think I seen a thread saying under the back seat?
You cannot mount these under the back seat, the seat sits directly on the floor. I would aim for the trunk or on the back of the back seat.

Some other important notes:
- Run your power wires and speaker signal wires on opposite sides of the car. I run my power wires on the passengers side
- Grounding for all amps should be done properly and preferred to be grounded the same spot
- Power distribution block should not be allowed to make contact with any metal surface of the car (grounded)
- Don't forget to read the beginner audio section on this site. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=158533

[djcaz_aom]

Raf99 pretty much covered it all. The only thing I can add, is to be sure your circuit breaker/ main fuse is of the correct amperage for your setup. Too little and it will be tripped quite often. Too much and you can fry your car, lol.

[H3ad tr9p]

Thanks guys this means allot. I didn't get the chance to pull my wires from my caprice before the salvage yard picked it up. So I'm going to buy new wiring soon. So should I buy the two mono block amps for each sub I was told by someone that would give more power. I don't know too much about system install but it can't be that much of a challenge. Is there a good ground connection in the trunk?

[Raf99]

Thanks guys this means allot. I didn't get the chance to pull my wires from my caprice before the salvage yard picked it up. So I'm going to buy new wiring soon. So should I buy the two mono block amps for each sub I was told by someone that would give more power. I don't know too much about system install but it can't be that much of a challenge. Is there a good ground connection in the trunk?

The more simple you make this the better. No need for two amps for each sub if you have one amp with enough power to run both subs. Personally i wouldn't tackle this job without education in electrical systems. Most people use the rear seat bolt as a ground. My setup now, but my battery is in the trunk.

[H3ad tr9p]

Here's the subs I'm going to get
So instead of getting two 1k watt turantula amps should I get this
Amp
This is the amp I'm using on my components
These are the components
I'm debating on getting three pairs waiting to see how loud just the two pairs are going to be. I know for a fact I'm going to get the soundstream battery and a capacitor. And going to upgrade the alternator if you think that will be needed. 0 Guage wire on subs and 4-8 Guage on components.

[ADD/Andy]

What are you going for sound-wise? Are you just wanting loud, or good sound with a little bit of volume?

What deck are you running?

If you're going for good sound I would recommend only one set of components, in your front doors, and bridge your amp down to two channels.

Look into "the big three", running two amps that big you're going to need some decent power going into the amps.

A good primary battery will be a good idea, and though not 100% necessary, a secondary battery wouldn't be a bad idea.

I wouldn't worry too much about a capacitor, a secondary battery would be better "bang for your buck". A capacitor is usually more of a Band-Aid than an actual fix. They store power like a battery, but are used to "smooth" the power, rather than "give" power.

[H3ad tr9p]

So I should get a good battery under the hood and a decent one in the trunk, or vice versa? And how would I run that, would I need a power wire ran from under the hood to the one in the trunk or just take my battery out every night and charging it?

[ADD/Andy]

I don't think it would really matter where you put which battery, but I'd put the one with more cold cranking amps (CCA number on the sticker on the battery) under the hood so it's closer to the starter motor. You will want to run a (fused) power cable between the two batteries, so they are both always charging with the car running; and a battery isolator so the batteries won't kill each other while the car is not running

[edzyy]

I don't think 3 pairs of components is a good idea

You'll have cancellation issues

[sonikaccord]

You'll have cancellation issues regardless, our chassis is a glass house. Besides, I don't think he's into to that kind of thing

[H3ad tr9p]

Ok so I've decided to put two components in one in the rear and one in the front. Has anyone ever done a sub install in the rear deck just curious I seen one on a civic I think it was some time back with a fiberglassed trunk, supra tail light conversion, xbox 360 2 screens a ten" sub in rear deck with like 5 components through out the car all kicker. didn't actually get to hear it but I'm sure the reason for so many components was just due to the sub being inside the car. Now thinking about it I'm not going to go that rout might not sound as good as it looks 2-3 tens in the trunk and two components sound about right with sound deadening

[ADD/Andy]

I had a10" Alpine Type-R in the rear deck of my 89 Accord and 10" Polk dB in the rear deck of my 92. I much prefer it that way, it gives a lot cleaner sound than in the trunk and doesn't take up much of your trunk space.