Quick question on intake side of removing head..

[protegechris]

What all needs to be pulled off on the intake side? I've got everything from the front out. I just don't want to pull anything unnecessary.

[cp[mike]]

depends how you want to do it, its usually easier to pull the head & manifold out together and swap it over while you have easy access to it. but usually i leave the manifold in, and connected to all the hoses and just swap the head out. but if you decide to pull it out, just gotta disconnect all of the lines - fuel, vacuum, throttle cable, and the thermostat housing. otherwise to leave the mani in, u need to get all of the 12mm nuts holding it onto the back of the head, and the ones on the bottom can be hard to get to....

[orangeaccord]

Just disconnect anything that is attached to the head or the intake manifold. You don't have to remove the intake manifold itself. Believe me, trying to get the intake manifold off while the head is still on the block is one of the most God-awful difficult things you can ever do.

Make sure you have two people when you lift it out, it's incredibly heavy.

[Losiracer2]

leave the intake mani ON THE HEAD, trust me, i just did the HG on my car a couple months ago. You just need to be sure to get the 12mm nut off the bottom of the intake mani. from underneath. Best way to do it is to just get underneath on your back w/ the car jacked up and use a fairly long extension to get to it. Its basically a support bracket that attaches to the head and the block, so you're just removing that one bolt and it'll free it up.

Also get all the pesky 10mm screws holding the wires to the intake mani. THOSE took me an hour to figure out what was getting hung up. I believe there's 3 on the driverside, depending on if you have the A6 engine w/ the butterfly valves, and i think 2 on the pass. side of the intake mani.

But be sure to have another guy help you lift out the head and intake mani together, it weighs about 80lbs and you have to lift up and forward so it is kinda awkward and will strain your back if done alone.

[92bently]

yeh i would definately leave it on the head and swap it over outside the car...unless u have a lift,and air ratchet, and swivel sockets i would mess with the intake in the car..

[protegechris]

I was on my last head bolt and... the bolt stripped. Not the threads.. the head of the bolt.

They were taking every bit of my strength on a breaker bar and this one just stripped out.

Son of a bitch. Any solutions for this or have I screwed myself/

[totaldoughnut]

Were you using a 12 point socket on that head bolt that stripped? ALways use the proper sized preferably 6 point sockets if possible. But yeah, those head bolts are pretty tight, just replaced my head last month. Grab a standard sized socket that is just a hair to small and beat it onto the bolt with a hammer and see if that grabs. Or weld a big nut to the bolt head.

Also, when I replaced my head I left the intake manifold on the engine. Wasnt to difficult except for those lower intake nuts. I puled the thermostat housing and made a little more room to get to them.

[protegechris]

I removed the t-stat and a bunch of other stuff. The pistons look decent (considering mileage).. the valves.. not so much. Obviously the car has gone through a period where it wasn't maintained too well. I will post pictures soon. I was using a 6pt socket.. the bolt head didn't completely strip.. it did a little, but I didn't realize I was using my cheap socket. I grabbed my decent toolset (couldn't find it at first) and popped that sucker off with no problem.

Head and intake are sitting in my living room.. pictures coming soon

[totaldoughnut]

Sweet, I was also surprised that my pistons and cylinders looked okay after so many miles. I ended up replacing my head with a rebuild because I found a couple cracks in my old one. Its amazing how much better a quality socket can grab onto a bolt properly.

[protegechris]

My head looks good.. the valves have all sorts of buildup on them. Tons on the dead cylinder in particular.

[protegechris]

No pictures of the pistons yet. They have black buildup on them (not too much). They all look good, actually. Will post pics of them tomorrow. Here is the head:



Cylinder 4:


Cylinder 3:


Cylinder 2 (the one with 20psi compression):


Cylinder 1 (these look great.. minimal buildup):


The burned valve on cylinder 2...



So what do you guys think I should do? The exhaust valves all pretty much look like they could use replacing... at least on Cyls. 2 & 3. I know the stem seals are shot which is probably what caused a lot of this. I have no overheating/leaking/head gasket issues.. do I still need to have it machined? I'm looking to get out as cheaply as possible.

[evil_demon_01]

I would machine it to be safe, and replace all intake and exhaust valves. Valve stem seals are a good idea as well, and I would check the valve seats for damage.
I must say I've seen burnt valves around the edges before, but not a considerable hole like the one in yours.

[slammed4thgen]

cheaply?

junkyard lol buy one and bolt her on.

[GearBangnAccord]

cheaply?

junkyard lol buy one and bolt her on.

x2 on the JY ftw
just make sure the motor has low Kms an looks clean/healthy

[19dabeast85]

Yeah, JY will be the cheapest route......look for low miles and check inside the oil cap for buildup. Usually if it looks pretty clean inside the cap, you've found a well maintained engine..

You have the F22a1 right? Don't limit yourself to just Accords, the Preludes will have what you need also. And IF you find an a6 head, grab the ecu and intake manifold in case you ever want to go that route. If you just want to fix it quick but find a good a6 head, just swap your current cam onto the new head and you'll be back.