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possibly an h23 ecu instead?

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    #16
    Originally posted by deevergote. View Post
    It's not a huge deal, and people are going crazy for next to nothing... but the P12 is a decent gain if you can get one cheap. I could pick one up for $15. $15 for 10hp is probably the cheapest possible double-digit gain.
    Yea, I got mine for 35 bucks from a nearby junkyard. 10bhp from a 125 engine that someone doesn't want crazy power from, is pretty sweet. 10bhp for a V8, worthless. 10bhp from a little 4 cylinder, pretty good. It's not a turbo, or anything special. If you want a gain in WHP, then you need to upgrade some internals, or go Turbo.
    98' Mustang 3V Swap
    11' VW CC R36

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      #17
      besides the hp gain, what can happen to, say, an F22A1 with an A6 ECU if they're different that is.

      My A1 was swapped into my EX before i got her and it would act weird if i got even close to my redline. (even over 5k) and when i punched it to get into heavy traffic is when my current problem arose. Could the ECU difference cause the motor to hurt itself?

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        #18
        Originally posted by Flatline View Post
        besides the hp gain, what can happen to, say, an F22A1 with an A6 ECU if they're different that is.

        My A1 was swapped into my EX before i got her and it would act weird if i got even close to my redline. (even over 5k) and when i punched it to get into heavy traffic is when my current problem arose. Could the ECU difference cause the motor to hurt itself?
        I had the same thing done. This engine's an a1, but with A6 parts swapped from the old engine.

        The a6 ecu should do the opposite of what it's doing to you, in higher rpms. The a6 ecu is setup to give your car more fuel after 4800rpms, because of the IAB system, whether you have the IAB system, have it hooked up, or not. The a6 is to give the more aggressive cam and IM, more fuel. So, your car's gettin' more fuel, than it would with an Ecu from an a1 or a4. (pt3)

        Most that put an A6 ecu (pt6) on a stock A1, automatically see a big difference. Haven't heard of any problems from it though.

        I've actually closed the IAB system, and unhooked the vacuum, to where they stay closed, as if I have an a1/a4 intake manifold. Only 4 ports were open at all times, and after about 5k, it just didn't wanna go, like it does with the 8 ports open. (It'd make sense why though). But it didn't feel a real big hold back.
        Last edited by Gotz Cb7; 10-01-2008, 12:10 PM.
        98' Mustang 3V Swap
        11' VW CC R36

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          #19
          so i have a 1990 ex with a f22a4 which ecu should i get to help my performance

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            #20
            Originally posted by blueACCORDex View Post
            so i have a 1990 ex with a f22a4 which ecu should i get to help my performance
            Depends. You've got options. The p12 is mostly for a little gain with just having to plug it in, but there's other things you'd have to look at.

            Most people that have the f22a1's and f22a4's are into upgrading their engines to the f22a6. The intake manifold, the cam, the ecu. Now, if you get a p12, you can't get an a6 intake manifold (which is in the 30hp for $500), and if you plan on going turbo or something later on in the future, the p12 isn't an ecu you can tune. If you plan on upgrading your engine, to an f22a6, then try to find a pt6 ecu (From an A6), so that when you install the a6 intake manifold and cam, you'll see the most improvement from your upgrade.

            This p12's for people who want cheap horsepower at the time, but like I'm sayin' above...you have other options, and this p12 won't help you later on if you want to upgrade to something bigger. (Turbo, Upgrade internals, etc).
            98' Mustang 3V Swap
            11' VW CC R36

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