Fast Idle Valve Block Off Plate?

[1991f22a1]

ok so i recently swapped my a1 intake for an a6/h23 hybrid. the only problem is with the fast idle valve hooked up, when you reved the engine, it would rev up about another 1000rpms when you let your foot off of the accel. my question is, did any accord come with this block off plate? ive seen it on my friends, but i dont know where he got it...should i try and find one or just make my own? (DIY rules!) anyone know where i could acquire this part?

[1991f22a1]

bump? no one?

[wed3k]

have to custom make one.

[bcjammerx]

The FITV (fast idle thermal valve) should only operate under cold start conditions right, bumping the idle up for cold start.

Would this really be a symptom of a malf. FITV or an air boost valve, which is what boosts a bit more air for the a/c running.

It seems less likely to be the fitv...maybe even an overcomp'ing IACV

I would check the air boost valve...and...another thing to consider:

I'm working on a customized gasket made of plastic that I put in place between the IACV and the plenum, it's a solid piece of plastic (though pliable) with a hole drilled for each port, the hole is pretty small. I don't have the size off hand of what drill bit I used...but it was pretty small. I'm still working on it and once I get the sizes I'll post a DIY...something for me to do later today.

It lets the rpm's drop when letting off the throttle. Otherwise the rpm's tend to hang for a second...sometimes they go up a little...though not 1000 rpms. Which is why I still say check the air boost valve...and you could also adjust the FITV while you're there.

for the FITV you open the top and screw the white part back down, for the air boost...uh...I'm not sure how you check it. Be VERY carefull the air boost valve has a tiny spring under it's metal cap...if you were to take that off that is.

[1991f22a1]

see when i installed the fitv valve my buddy justin told me the same thing, which is what i did. but when i unplug the fast idle valve the problem goes away. when i plug it up again it comes back. my engine has no problem coming to normal operating temp when i start it in the morning, and i and ultimately going to get rid of the fast idle. i was told that it had happened before when my buddy justin did it to another F, he said the problem was that they were "competing" against each other and that the fast idle wasnt neccesarily needed. hes a genious when it comes to any engine told me that i can just eliminate it.
btw im anxious to see your DIY. post a link on this thread when u complete it

[GhostAccord]

When you are referring to unplugging the FITV what are you unplugging? Are you referring to plugging the FITV port inside the throttle body? Becasue the FITV does not have any sort of electrical connection to unplug. All it has are two coolant lines. The IACV is the valve that has the electrical connection. When it is disconnected it will change your idle speed.

[1991f22a1]

on the h23 mani, what i was told was the "fast idle valve" thats located on the right side, with the word "UP" on it. theres a vacuum line running from that into the far right side of the plenum. when they're both connected, the engine revs up when you let off the throttle. when i disconnected the hose from the mani and plugged up that port, it stopped revving up after you hit the throttle.

[benji]

on the h23 mani, what i was told was the "fast idle valve" thats located on the right side, with the word "UP" on it. theres a vacuum line running from that into the far right side of the plenum. when they're both connected, the engine revs up when you let off the throttle. when i disconnected the hose from the mani and plugged up that port, it stopped revving up after you hit the throttle.

Sounds to me like you are talking about the air boost valve. Are there any coolant lines going to it?

[1991f22a1]

no coolant lines. it says UP on it. thot it was "fast idle" maybe im just confused (as ususal)

[turbo90accord]

i can make you carbon fiber block off plates for them if you want i have them made allready.

[steelbluesleepR]

if its on the driver's side of an h23 manifold (the right side of the mani when looking at it from the front of the car) then that is the air boost valve. i would (and did ) make a block-off plate for that. i also made a block-off for EGR, FITV (which is on the under-side the h23 throttle body), and tried out a iacv block off but took it off. here's a pic of what i did:



the air-boost block off is the one under the port for the IM hose (its late and i cant remember what that is called). the IACV is to the left of that, the fast idle valve block off is under the throttle body (barely visible), and the egr is on the bottom left.

[1991f22a1]

ohhh. okay, well damn learn something new everyday! what type of metal did u use? aluminum? what thickness? ive already got a template drawn up im just needing to figure out what to use. the "factory" block off plate that ive seen looks to be almost a 1/4 in thick!

carbon fibre block off plates? whoa dude that sounds expensive hahaha.....i appreciate the offer but i dont think ill be needing anything that intricate! i just need a piece of aluminum and a drill. maybe some hondabond too!

[steelbluesleepR]

i used some aluminum that was about 3/8" thick. i just used a bench grinder and a drill to make it then polished it and painted it with duplicolor metalcast.

[1991f22a1]

i used some aluminum that was about 3/8" thick. i just used a bench grinder and a drill to make it then polished it and painted it with duplicolor metalcast.

awesome! btw it looks badass!

[moetan]

I used to have alot of problem with the bypass valve on the driver side of the plenum so I made a block off with a piece of plexi glass and silicone. As for the coolant line, i ran the line back into the IAC. In ran fine after that.