now this is for my friend and his coupe. He is telling me that his tail lights are staying on are draining his battery dead. I told him to check the fuses first. Which now I'm thinking now that might not be it. So has anyone had this type of problem?
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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
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The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
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Under Ground Society
"SLUTS NEED LOVE TOO.....AND A LOT OF DICK!" -
2 pennies and super glue worked for me.Need CB7/H22/Turbo parts? i got them..check threadComment
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yea, i had some small plastic piece with 3m tape on one side. super quick fix.Comment
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Really? Now would thIs apply when the car is off as well?
Under Ground Society
"SLUTS NEED LOVE TOO.....AND A LOT OF DICK!"Comment
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yeahComment
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1999 BMW M3
2001 Honda CR-V SE RT4WD
2005 Chevrolet Tahoe Z71
2015 Suzuki V-Strom 650Comment
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Yea I should have done a search I completaly forgot.
Under Ground Society
"SLUTS NEED LOVE TOO.....AND A LOT OF DICK!"Comment
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That is because you haven't clicked any of those links or searched for yourself.
I will spoon fee...I mean explain...
your brake lights do not come on because the brake pedal is pressed down. They come on because a switch is released...which is a result of the pedal being pressed...but it is the switch and not the pedal. This is why your brake lights come on even when you BARELY press the brake pedal. More explanation:
On the brake pedal there is a metal tab, this tab has a hole on it. This hole is filled with a rubber stopper. With the brake pedal in it's resting unpressed state that tab/rubber stopper push a switch in. When the switch is pushed in it turns the brake lights off. The switch is mounted under the dash. When you push your brake pedal it releases that switch which turns the brake lights on.
Your TAIL lights and STOP lights are actually ONE bulb, that bulb has two filaments, when the headlights are one, one filament is lit, hit the brakes and the second lights up. Your TAIL lights come on when your park lights (first click on the headlight switch) are on as well as the headlights (second click)
When that rubber stopper gets old and deteriorates it fall apart, now nothing holds the switch in, so the STOP lights come on and stay on.
Now...the test for this is...One you will see rubber bits and pieces on your floor board. Also, turn headlights and park lights all off, and with the brake pedal up the STOP lights are on. How can you tell if it's the STOP lights and not just the TAILS? Simple, if it's the STOP lights then your middle "third light" (which is in the middle of the rear deck) will be on.
If the TAIL lights are on and not the STOP lights, with the headlights/park lights off, then this is another issue. But I am pretty sure your third light is also lit and that is your STOP lights.
You can get another rubber stopper for cheap at autozone, comes in a package of them. Or super glue and a penny or two, the switch screws in so you can adjust it's depth. On my 240 I used a bolt, nut, and washer.Last edited by bcjammerx; 08-29-2009, 01:31 AM.__
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I actually just had this same problem yesterday, it turned out to be the little plastic nipple that presses the button on the Stoplight Switch which is a $2.50 piece at Honda. And just for extra measure if it turns out to be the Stoplight Switch the Price for the Non Cruise Control switch is $19.00 and some change and the one with Cruise Control is $58.00 and some change both from Honda if anybody is interested. Also the plugs on the Cruise Control and Non Cruise Control Switch are different if anybody thinks to buy the cheaper one to save a couple extra bucks.
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i've heard of people puting a nut and bolt in there and that working for them.
i replaced mine with the dealer part though. it was about $2. later.Comment
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That's what I ended up doing. The OEM piece broke twice in a 3-4 month period. My nut/bolt solution has lasted 16+ months.Originally posted by TypeG View Post
1999 BMW M3
2001 Honda CR-V SE RT4WD
2005 Chevrolet Tahoe Z71
2015 Suzuki V-Strom 650Comment
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it must have been you i remember doing that. yours sounds like a more permanent solution. later.Comment
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Makes me wonder if the switch is getting sticky, causing the rubber stopper to break? Just a theory....Originally posted by JoshM View PostComment
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