A/C not working, question regarding compressor

[jmolina]

Before the accident the a/c worked great, the it stopped working, a/c compressor was not kicking in....

is the compressor bad?? or is there an electrical problem? or maybe a sensor or relay?

i'm in need of your assistance

[jmolina]

anybody? before i leave the net....

[bcjammerx]

the comp. will not operate if there is no pressure in the system.

Sounds like you have a leak.

My condenser has a hole in the bottom, once I replace that, replace the receiver dryer, and recharge it will work.

Find your leak...most likely in the area of damage from wreck. Fix components, vacuum test (don't charge until it passes a vacuum test).

[jmolina]

the comp. will not operate if there is no pressure in the system.

Sounds like you have a leak.

My condenser has a hole in the bottom, once I replace that, replace the receiver dryer, and recharge it will work.

Find your leak...most likely in the area of damage from wreck. Fix components, vacuum test (don't charge until it passes a vacuum test).

thank God you responded, i was about to go buy a new compressor.
i see there is still hope for my old one....

So if it looses pressure it will not work, kinda like a safety switch right?
what is a receiver dryer?
there is a part of the ac lines by the battery that got bent, clogging the line but i tried to bend it back as much as i could, that might be the problem.

condenser was not hit but i will still check it....and the other lines...
thank you

Also, vacuum test, how do i do that

[gdout90accord]

like stated above it might be a leak = no freon in the lines thats why compressor not kicking in. get it tested to see if it holds pressure. i just took out my ac on the red car so if u need any lines or dryer i can hook u up.

[bcjammerx]

I have some pressure in my lines...if I push in the shrader valve in the a/c ports it will "psssht" very little so if yours does that do not let it fool you. But it is not enough for the a/c switch to work. Yeah it is a safety measure so you do not burn the compressor. In the pic below it is #32, near the dryer...kinda down and to the left just a hair.

the receiver drier removes small amounts of moisture that may get into the line during recharge. moisture in the line is bad. The dryer is the LAST thing you do RIGHT BEFORE vacuum and recharge. It can take a little moisture out, but when replacing a/c parts you leave the dryer in it's packaging until RIGHT before you pull a vacuum...the vacuum will pull all moisture out Do not install new lines, then the dryer...then drive to the shop...the dryer is put on right before you pull the vacuum...sorry for the repeat but it is pretty important.



it's on the far right in the middle.

There are ways to rig up compressors to pull a vacuum but you will most likely have to find the leak (bent lines would be the first area to look), fix the leak, then have the shop pull the vacuum. You will also need the r-134 retro as most shops no longer carry r-12.

Also, there is oil in the a/c lines and the r-12 is liquid...so look for wet areas around the lines and other areas around the initial damage. I ran off into a ditch head on and the rad support got pushed into the condenser, I could also see a wet spot on my condenser.

Hopefully there are no other leaks aside from where the damage happened.

[jmolina]

thanks guys

[gdout90accord]

thanks guys

ay yo i texted you

[jmolina]

ay yo i texted you

txt me again.....i lost my old phone..

ok guys, the cb will be as is. it will go for sale sometime this week or next..(not selling here),
getting another cb or cd for the meantime for the summer, i'm moving to california in a couple of months (fall-winter), south cali...here i come!!!!

definitely buying a cb there..

[cloudasc]

You should really consider finding a cb or cd in texas to bring with you to cali if possible. The reason I say this is because in cali you'll have a hard time finding a rust free cb, although most of the cb's in texas have peeling sun baked paint. Although a paint job is cheaper then rust repair & a paint job. Just some food for thought. Good luck with the sale!

[jmolina]

You should really consider finding a cb or cd in texas to bring with you to cali if possible. The reason I say this is because in cali you'll have a hard time finding a rust free cb, although most of the cb's in texas have peeling sun baked paint. Although a paint job is cheaper then rust repair & a paint job. Just some food for thought. Good luck with the sale!

huh?? really....

u think a cb can make the trip from texas to cali?
i'll do some research, thanks for the advice

[visualpoet]

...There are ways to rig up compressors to pull a vacuum but you will most likely have to find the leak (bent lines would be the first area to look), fix the leak, then have the shop pull the vacuum. You will also need the r-134 retro as most shops no longer carry r-12.

Also, there is oil in the a/c lines and the r-12 is liquid...so look for wet areas around the lines and other areas around the initial damage. I ran off into a ditch head on and the rad support got pushed into the condenser, I could also see a wet spot on my condenser.

Hopefully there are no other leaks aside from where the damage happened.

Most refrigerants (especially automotive) have UV dye in them, so a black light should show any leaks.

R-12 refrigerant is actually a gas under pressure, any liquid you see leaking from an AC part is the oil for the system, and it goes in with the refrigerant.


Definitely check it out with a black light, if you don't get any reaction, take it to a shop and have them check it out. They'll inject dye into the system and find the leak, etc, etc.

[MikeW]

Dont forget your nifty yellow glasses when you do a dye injection/leak check.

[cloudasc]

huh?? really....

u think a cb can make the trip from texas to cali?
i'll do some research, thanks for the advice

My cb completely stock (using royal purple oil) made it from seattle to houston doing 90mph almost the entire way (I got the speeding tickets to prove it, one leaving washington, and one in kansas). Took 48 hours, with 8 hours of sleep, stop every 350+ miles to fill up on gas, get food, drink, bathroom break & two police stops for speeding. Worst thing to happen was I fell asleep with the radio on, and woke up to a dead battery. A quick jump from a helpful patron and i was on my way.

My girl is from cali so thats how i can speak about cali, i'm from seattle, plus depending upon where your moving too, the road salts they use. I see cb7's all the time that appear to be rust free on the road here in texas (despite the paint). The previous owner of the cb was from new york, made it to seattle, transfered to another owner and remained in seattle till i purchased it. Compared to the cb7's i've seen in cali and washington, my car is pretty rust free, other then the minor rear wheelwell bubbling paint, and under the honda badge on the trunk.

[bcjammerx]

How many miles do you usually drive in a month? A year? Unless you have reason to doubt the car (new odd noises, sporadic cooling issues, intermittent running issues) I don't see why you should worry.