CV Split Boot, how is it?

[Bad_dude]

Hello,
I have the 1990 Honda Accord LX, 4AT. My passenger's side CV boot is busted. The grease though dark, but still feel fresh and no dirt in it. I think it's just recently when this happens. The grease is still flowing out slowly from the joint. There's no clicking noise yet when turning.
I am thinking of doing this myself to save some money. But I am thinking of using the Split boot from Autozone. What do you guys think about these boots? Obviously it might last as long as that of the one piece boot.
What's is the best way of cleaning the grease off the joint so I can reapply new grease?

Here's the boot link
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=12-0

I plan on using this red grease, would it be ok?
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...bCategoryName=

Since the boot just break, I plan on getting it fix tomorrow. What is the chance that I have to replace the whole axle given that the joint is not clicking yet?

Thanks.

[Fleetw00d]

Split boots are junk. Do it right and replace the axle.

[ucc crx]

Split boots are junk. Do it right and replace the axle.

x2 you can pick up new rebuilt axles for $70 with your old one as a core. save you time and just buy a new one

[nine_deuce]

Yeah, I'd replace the axle. Might as well do it right the first time. And a lot of places like Autozone, Schuck's, Napa, carry lifetime warranties on axles.

[ucc crx]

figure ur guna take the axle out anyway why not spend a few extra bucks and get a new one

[Shaar]

Absolutely no reason to replace your axle. Pull the axle, buy replacement boots. They come with grease. You'll be out about 20 bucks for BOTH sides from an auto parts store. Takes about 30 mins to re-boot and pack the joints. Why spend 140 on new ones when 20 will be just fine.

I've also had bad experiences with new or reman axles. They don't come with the balancing rubber dampener and I always got vibration on highway speeds without that dampener. Returned the axles, regreased and booted my old ones, and they are absolutely perfect.

Lesson I learned: Just because its 'easier' doesn't mean its the best option

Hope that helps!


OH, and I used carb cleaner to clean the old grease off of the joints. Don't use the split boots, they are junk and only temporary fixes until a REAL solution is taken care of.

[jerry18849]

i have the exact same car (90 accord lx) and i used the split boot but it was trash. it didnt seal and the grease went everywhere
just buy a new axle, they're only about $45

[deevergote]

If any dirt managed to get into the grease, it will eventually ruin the joint. Personally, I would just replace the entire axle for peace of mind. However, if you want to just replace the boot, I wouldn't go the split boot route.

[darknight]

ur better off getting a new one yea it's a lil more expensive but its the way to do it cuz if u replace the boot n dnt do it rite u'll be back to square 1

[JDMDriver]

Absolutely no reason to replace your axle. Pull the axle, buy replacement boots. They come with grease. You'll be out about 20 bucks for BOTH sides from an auto parts store. Takes about 30 mins to re-boot and pack the joints. Why spend 140 on new ones when 20 will be just fine.

I've also had bad experiences with new or reman axles. They don't come with the balancing rubber dampener and I always got vibration on highway speeds without that dampener. Returned the axles, regreased and booted my old ones, and they are absolutely perfect.

Lesson I learned: Just because its 'easier' doesn't mean its the best option

Hope that helps!


OH, and I used carb cleaner to clean the old grease off of the joints. Don't use the split boots, they are junk and only temporary fixes until a REAL solution is taken care of.

I Definitely agree with the above.

First of all i have done this approach to many cars (so long as its done early) my Prelude (still have), brothers cd accord (still have), my dads cb (still have), my CRX (still have) and CB Accord (still have).

If its fresh and doesnt click it is perfectly fine to just clean, repack with grease and replace the boot.

All of the cars i have done to the above have been going with no problems for thousands of km's now.

Remember the reconditioned ones you will get have had blown boots before. Due to commercialism and time cost of money they are not cleaned anywhere as clean as you would on you own CV joints (hence the experience of bad recond. axles in many cases) or not even cleaned at all.

[JDMDriver]

Believe it or not but I have seen (on cars i have changed CV boots on) where the boots are not yet blown (previously replaced by other mechanics) where grease was applied so sparingly thin (compared to being immersed in it if you used all of the grease that the replacement boots come with) that you could swear no grease was added and that it was intended.

No doubt a commercial tactic to ensure it lasts past warranty but to fail prematurely (not the 15 years or so an oem usually lasts for). Lesson is do it yourself and you know its done properly.

I dont understand how some people here say my reconditioned axles lasted for 4 or 6 years so its worth it. Axles packed to oem standards with good boots should last for at least 10 to 15 years in my books (if the oem ones did theres no reason why the new ones shouldnt).

The main thing is the CV itself is not yet clicking which is your case (not yet clicking).

[JDMDriver]

I would love to research and tear open a few of the so called recond axles to check on the average quality of work and regreasing (cleanliness, amount of grease and if packed inside the bearings etc).

I guarantee you recond. axles are no where near oem factory clean and regreased (which we all believe reconditioned axles to be).

I suggest to do the work yourself (learn in the process) and have a peace of mind.
Your best clean up should be enough.

You can bet they didnt put as much effort (per axle) in cleaning and repacking the commercial reconditioned ones as you would (even if you think you did a shitty job at it).

[red07frontier]

Here's my 2 cents, first off, reman axles most always have a lifetime warranty so you only have to spend $60.00 or so for one and that's it. Yes they are not up to oe standards but I also am a auto tech and have done thousands of axles and 99.9% work perfect.

If you do just a boot then use the full boot. Never do a split boot. They are a bitch to work with and are a temp solution. The boot will come with grease and band clamps. You need a pair of cv band pliers to install them correctly. You can buy the pliars wherever you get the boot. Clean it well and use brake clean as it does not leave a residue behind.

One more note, do NOT use the grease you had in the link, you need to use grease specifically made for cv axles. It is in a small tube and says cv grease on it.

[JDMDriver]

Here's my 2 cents, first off, reman axles most always have a lifetime warranty so you only have to spend $60.00 or so for one and that's it. Yes they are not up to oe standards but I also am a auto tech and have done thousands of axles and 99.9% work perfect.

Although they are life time warranty that "warranty" is cunningly calculated for the benefit of the manufacturer.

The manufacturer of reconditioned CV joints knows these cars needing them are old (as oem ones lasts a decade at least) and turnover of subsequent ownerships will be significantly higher than the first owner. Now when the ownership changes in 2 or 3 years the receipt is not usually passed to the new owners and therefore no more life time warranty can be proved. After 4 years the CV joint breaks on the new owner and guess what... they must pay for another (not a free of charge replacement issue) as no receipt.

I bet there are many people here who have changed CV joints which should have been replaced free (under the life time warantee) but had to pay since 1) the reciept from the previous owner was not passed or 2)they have lost the original receipt or 3)the onus to prove the axle in question was indeed purchased from their store cannot be proven.

Life time Warranty doesn't work in practice.

Remember its also a "Warranty" not a "Guarantee" big difference.

If you do just a boot then use the full boot. Never do a split boot. They are a bitch to work with and are a temp solution. The boot will come with grease and band clamps. You need a pair of cv band pliers to install them correctly. You can buy the pliars wherever you get the boot. Clean it well and use brake clean as it does not leave a residue behind.

I agree you need a CV band tightening tool. You can increase your peace of mind knowing the bands are on properly.

Note!! Do not over tighten them as you will either rip the bood or snap the band. Easy to do with the tightening tool. Watch the boot if deforming and feel carefully that its tight enough but not too tight.

Buy 4 spare bands (you will need 2 for the dynamic balancers - one each for the left and right - as you will need to slide these off to fit the boot on the outer joints). The other 2 incase you stuff up with the supplied bands (since its your first).

Outer CV joints on the CV is not removable.

I suggest buy a split clip or circ clip removal tool. 2 clips holds holds the 3 inner joint bearings tree (a three pronged thing which the bearings spin on). The circ clip removal tool helps to open it abit then get a flat head screw driver to slide it (watch out you dont lose these as they jump or pop off once you slide them to the end).

One more note, do NOT use the grease you had in the link, you need to use grease specifically made for cv axles. It is in a small tube and says cv grease on it.

I tend to agree not to use the grease you mentioned. Even if it may do the job the cv boot kits come with all the grease you will need. So no need to spend more.

[Tippey764]

You might as well just use duct tape. it would be more reliable then a split boot.