Hey guys, My Automatic trannny is acting funny on me this morning and still is. At first for the 1st 5 miles it drives really good at cold temp but then when it gets hot the transmission starts to slip like crazy. It wont change to 2nd 3rd or 4th gear. The more I drive the worse it gets. The RPMS go higher and higher but my car wont move. Has anyone experience this before? I have low mile shift solenoids, or is their any fluid that will stop the grinding. This is my DD car and i go to college and to work with this car everyday.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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Automatic Tranny Slipping
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Is your S light flashing? If so, then your TCU is giving you an error code.
Try changing the fluid. Use Honda ATF ONLY. Nothing else, and no additives.
It sounds like the torque converter is failing (though I may be wrong, I have NO experience with automatics...) A fluid change may help, but parts will eventually need to be replaced.
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Thanks Deev. My S light is not blinking nor do I have CEL. Tomorrow morning I will be buying Honda ATF.Btw how many Quarts do I need to buy from the Honda Dealer?. I will be looking in the DIY section on how to properly change ATF oil. But what puzzles me is that, why does my car act normal but when I drive 10-20 miles it starts to slip. I will come back to this thread and bring in feedback.
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Easiest way is to drain it, then fill it with 2.7 quarts. There's actually 7 quarts in there, but to get it all out in one go you have to do things that aren't recommended.Originally posted by AeyJayCB7 View PostThanks Deev. My S light is not blinking nor do I have CEL. Tomorrow morning I will be buying Honda ATF.Btw how many Quarts do I need to buy from the Honda Dealer?. I will be looking in the DIY section on how to properly change ATF oil. But what puzzles me is that, why does my car act normal but when I drive 10-20 miles it starts to slip. I will come back to this thread and bring in feedback.MRT
37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit
Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car
Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
Originally posted by Tippey764I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheatOriginally posted by deevergotesneaky motherfucker
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I believe there is a sticky thread somewhere showing fluid capacities, but Geoff is probably right. I'm not an expert on autos, so I don't want to mislead you.
As oils get warm, they get thinner. I assume that is why your transmission starts slipping more once you've been driving a bit. I believe that's how additives like the products from Lucas work... they make the fluid thicker, and allow it to stay thicker longer. I HATE additives, and they are not good for the transmission... but if it still slips after the ATF change, perhaps trying a bit of Lucas additive would be worth a try. If it doesn't work, you'll be draining it and replacing parts anyway.
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Now I understand. When the tranny heats up the fluid turns thin. Thanks deev and Geo.
Update: Well today It showed me 3 codes. which is the o2 sensor. I just replaced it with denso 2 months ago and IAC. I cleaned the IAC out and it runs a bit smooth. Also the car runs good on low launching but when I wanna hit the freeway the rpm hit high and no speed at all(Dangerous). I bought 2 Honda ATF oil. Tomorrow morning I will try it to take the bolt off the tranny to drain the oil. I rubbed the old oil with my finger tips and it feels silky soft(watery) . I will report back with results. Hope it fixed the problem I'm broke right now.
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i dont get why people say honda ATF only, when on my dipstick and several other cb7s ive seen it say dexron, and it even says it on the manual, atf-z1 or dexron is appropriate for the transmission. well anyways, try disconnecting the two sensors at the bottom of the transmission, it will make your s or d4 light go off but, it will over ride any electrical errors and give you a hint to if those sensors are failing or not. also, try using some synthetic atf fluid, like royal purple or valvoline dexron 4 synthetic. one thing you might also want to consider is if the radiator cooler lines going from the tranny to the bottom of the radiator are flowing sufficiently. goodluck
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I brought some dog shampoo last year for my dog, On the back it said "Not suitable for animals"Originally posted by lilg4mdalbc View Posti dont get why people say honda ATF only, when on my dipstick and several other cb7s ive seen it say dexron, and it even says it on the manual, atf-z1 or dexron is appropriate for the transmission.
96 Honda CRV's have "ATF" stamped on the diff filler plug, yet You actually use CVT fluid.
06 Civic Hybrid has a front master cylinder reservoir, but you actually leave it empty.
Not everything is what it seems.
Many people will argue either way, But look at it this way - Honda Guarantee their product, and offer a product that is specifically designed for their gearbox.
Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks
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atf-z1 is what's best for the trans, but doesn't mean that using what honda also recommends is suitable is gonna kill the transmission. its like using regular motor oil in your engine vs synthetic. obviously synthetic is gonna work but regular will work just fine. ive been using dexron in mine for about 5 years cause thats how long ive had the car, and no problems at all.
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I've had unprotected sex and I am disease-free and I have no children. That doesn't make it a good idea.
Use what the manufacturer recommends to avoid problems. The two primary reasons for Honda transmission failure are a) improper maintenance, and b) improper fluid.
Trust me... I've been dealing with these cars for quite some time now, and that is ALWAYS the case.
In our engines, regular motor oil is fine... synthetic is unnecessary. Get a Dodge Viper, which requires Mobil1 (I'd argue that there are much better oils, but that's a seemingly similar argument that doesn't belong here...) put a standard oil in a Viper, and there will be significant wear, I assure you.
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