What's the easiest way to remove the drivers side axle?

[Drake]

it has a 5spd axle with an auto trans. i have the correct parts but im having trouble exchanging the two. any help is appreciated!

[Fleetw00d]

Have you started and are stuck at a particular step? Did you have a manual or search for a DIY (Do It Yourself) thread?

Briefly:
Remove wheel
Remove axle nut
Remove tie rod nut, separate tie rod end from spindle
Remove lower ball joint nut, separate ball joint from lower control arm
Remove pinch bolt from strut fork
Remove bottom bolt from strut fork
Remove strut fork
Push the end of the axle through the hub as you swing the spindle out of the way
Use a pry bar to pop the inner end of the axle from the transmission

Installation is reverse.

[jhoff]

the axle nut is 36mm.
you need a breaker bar and a long pipe.
bend the lip out on the axle nut.
have a buddy hold the brake down, go to town.

do all of this with the car on the ground and wheel bolted up.

[steelbluesleepR]

When installing the axle nut, make sure you torque it to the proper amount. I work at the company that makes the new axles that AZ and O'Reilly sell, and improper/excessive torque is one of the most common reason that we deny labor claims. It can also cause vibrations.

[N9netwoAccord]

You don't have to undo the tie rod, it does give you more room, but I use a tie down strap and hold the knuckle out of the way, I only undo the lower ball joint and the strut fork.

[esskater892]

i usually do this,
remove tire,
remove wish bone,
take off lower balljoint castle nut,
use hammer to knock it separate, prob have to lift the wheel up so it falls when it separates.
then the axel nut, i have a impact hammer, electric, does wonders,
then pull it out and reverse of taking it apart to get it all back together. pretty simple.

[STOCKa6]

The proper torque for the axle nut is 180 lb-ft, and remember to stake the axle nut against the spindle.

[C91BLX7]

When installing the axle nut, make sure you torque it to the proper amount. I work at the company that makes the new axles that AZ and O'Reilly sell, and improper/excessive torque is one of the most common reason that we deny labor claims. It can also cause vibrations.

I don't really see this being a problem. its all the same piece of metal, unless you strip the the threads.

[steelbluesleepR]

I don't really see this being a problem. its all the same piece of metal, unless you strip the the threads.

what are you talking about? what piece of metal? I am the guy that inspects every axle that comes back for labor claims and I would say 10-20% of them were complaining of a vibration and came in with nuts that showed obvious use of an impact gun. Honda has issued a blanket TSB for every model that impact guns/over-torquing axle nuts is "a big taboo." It squeezes the wheel bearing excessively and causes them to vibrate/degrade.

I was just warning him. if he installs a new axle with a whoop-ass impact gun, then returns it to the store for a claim, I will be the one to personally inspect it and subsequently deny the claim.

[CameDaCB7]

I did this job today on my 91 and ran into two problems.

1. couldn't remove bolt from strut fork. (Eric the car guys warned about this on his video)
Solution: remove clamp from axle boots, old and new one. Once the new one goes in thru the fork clamp it back together.
2. New axle didn't easily snap in the trans right away, like in the videos.
Solution: Once the axle is snugged in right give it a good wack on the other end (two people required) but make sure you have the nut on so you won't damage the thread.

Oh and I also replaced the lower ball joint. Didn't have to remove the whole knuckle, just the lower ball joint.

[Granite CB7]

I usually NEVER remove the damper/shock fork. It seems like 9 times out of 10 the complete boot and clamp fit through the fork just fine. I recently had to remove the fork on a BB6 prelude, but that is it, CB's are usually fine.