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93 Accord maintenance and diag..

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    #61
    Originally posted by s2cmpugh View Post
    You may want to consider the coolant temperature sensor for the ECU. Sometimes these sensors don't report the correct temperature of the coolant when it's cold outside, especially as they age, so the ECU doesn't trim the fuel appropriately. This will NOT set a CEL as the sensor is still connected.

    You might be able to test the resistance with a multi-meter an compare it to what the book says it should be.

    Hope this helps!
    Sounds good to me

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      #62
      After changing the coolant temp sensor on cold start up the car will still nearly die or drop down to about 200rpms and then slowly increase idle til after about 45 secs it will hang at about 650 til warm then normal operating idle 800rpms

      The car runs alot smoother and idles better the temp sensor did cause a noticeable change, but I'm not quite sure that it is "normal" yet. Motor mounts are next then I will get back to you dudes.

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        #63
        Since changing the coolant temp sensor and clearing the ECM car now cranks longer on initial start up, after warmed up it starts normally.

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          #64
          SOOOO just ordered front wheel bearings, rotors, pads, upper/lower balljoints, front motor mount, and torque strut.

          The mounts are cake Ive done those before. I have a few things on the brakes/balljoints that I have questions about.

          1. Any advice on the wheel bearing replacement? I watched Eric the car guys video about them and Ive cut outter races off VW hubs before so thats nothing new. Anything I should be aware of? Ive replaced a lot of Subaru Wheel bearings so Im not new to this just dont have access to a good press, but I do to a Sh!tty one.

          2. Know of a good cheap balljoint clamp/press or a good way to fabricate one? saw one on Amazon for like $45 shipped but dunno if it will do the job without breaking..

          Still havent solves this start up issue. A "Honda" guy I work with said these cars have issue with the Throttle body but I havent ever read anything about them and I imagine it would trip a CEL if there was and Issue with that but maybe not

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            #65
            Got the front brakes DONE! got the front wheel bearings DONE! and got lower balljoints DONE! I bought upper front balljoints but it seems like those need to be replaced with the upper control arm and the ones that I got from rockauto were not even close..

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              #66
              Haven't been on here in a while but the car had been driving ALOT better after the front end overhaul and alignment

              Still have this start up issue.. Where it wants to or does die on start up unless the accelerator pedal is held down, like it has a carb!!

              So far have replaced the O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, FITV, cleaned the IACV, cranked up the idle to "help" with cold starts which didn't do anythin.. No engine codes as of now but it did throw a cylinder #1 position sensor code a month or so ag, from what I understand that is the distributor but shouldn't effect drivability.

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                #67
                A buddy of mine said it could be a bad IAC. Lmk what u guys think

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                  #68
                  Originally posted by andymccauley View Post
                  A buddy of mine said it could be a bad IAC. Lmk what u guys think
                  normally when its cold its FITV, i think at the top of the beginner section it shows/tells how to adjust it properly(or just youtube it)

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                    #69
                    not much to offer other than some of my experiences. when i first got my 91 a few years ago, it did take a few cranks to get started on cold(3 seconds at least after overnight). before me, the owner did say the car would not start on certain occasions and would stall out on the road on hot days. after soldering the main relay, it has started in a second or 3 or so sparks. its been about 3 years and still no problems. i've had a few issues with the high rpms in this thing but not low. i fixed it by fixing a vacuum leak in the hoses to the idle valves.

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                      #70
                      Originally posted by andymccauley View Post
                      Haven't been on here in a while but the car had been driving ALOT better after the front end overhaul and alignment

                      Still have this start up issue.. Where it wants to or does die on start up unless the accelerator pedal is held down, like it has a carb!!

                      So far have replaced the O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, FITV, cleaned the IACV, cranked up the idle to "help" with cold starts which didn't do anythin.. No engine codes as of now but it did throw a cylinder #1 position sensor code a month or so ag, from what I understand that is the distributor but shouldn't effect drivability.
                      have you checked for any vacuum leaks? to my knowledge hard starts/running doggy is from getting a bad air/fuel mixture. I had a recent issue with my da9 like this after replacing a few things to solve a code 43. ended up also putting its old map sensor and vac lines in her but upon starting her. she had a very hard time and would try to die after giving it any throttle. turned out there was debris in the vacuum lines to the map giving it a bad reading when changing throttle angle. enough to trick the ecu to believe the map was working properly but not enough for the engine to get proper air fuel. injected motors are picky. well all engines are picky. check for leaks. id also check your ignition timing, and while your at it, check your engine timing. a personal friend of mine, also a member here had similar annoyances with his cb. we tore it down and found it was a tooth off on physical timing, and then had to re-adjust his ign timing. good luck man. ill rack my brain for any other possibilities

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