93 Accord maintenance and diag..

[andymccauley]

well im guessing the T-belt is not supposed to be this loose , glad I got to this now rather than find out later.



Going to take a gander in the haynes manual but if any of you guys have a trick to getting the crank bolt loose to remove the drive belt pulley and lower timing cover LMK

[sonikaccord]

I'm doing my timing belt, water pump and seals now. One side is supposed to have some slack to it. Is the other side tight?

[F22A1forlife]

There was a time when i firat got my 92 lx sedan it wouldnt ever run without keeping your foot onthe gas tille it got more. It would also miss when it was cold. I had cel code 43 also and got a new denso o2 sensor. The car still ran like crap and it still had cel 43. The valces had been adjusted had way too tight. I set them to the specs i found on here. .10 intake and .12 exhaust. After that it ran great.good luck and keep us posted.

[sonikaccord]

Ok. My advice, use a cheater bar and a 1/2" breaker. I broke my pulley loose with ease. You also need a holder. I use the bar style. I didn't even bother to use PB Blaster or any other type of penetrating lube. Just some good ol' fashion elbow grease. You will need an extension and a jack stand to support the extensions.

Just follow the YouTube vids and you'll be fine

[andymccauley]

I got it off, rented a holder from orileys down the street, replaced every shaft seal, rear balance shaft pulley housing seal, both tensioners, water pump and put the both the belts on and was looking for a pic of the rear balance shaft timing marks and now know it's way off so I need to take the housing off and reset the gear.

Pretty straight forward job, my first time so it took/is taking me alot longer that I anticipated. I didn't use a jack stand to break the crank bolt loose either just used a 3' breaker bar and a huge wrench on the end of it with a 6" extension and a deep 19, with the holder and another breaker bar using the strut/control arm to hold tension

[sonikaccord]

It took me wayyy too long, but it was my first time too. oh well. You used a pretty short extension. In that case no you didn't need it.

To align the balance shafts:

Front: When looking down through the engine bay, at the top of the shaft you'll see a notch on the shaft and a protrusion on the oil pump. Simply line those two up.

Rear: Lock the balance shaft in place. With the gear case removed from the engine, you'll have to match the notch ( located on the rear of the gear) with the protrusion on the case. It's at about the 10-11 o'clock position. With the gear case attached to the engine, match the dot on the face of the gear to the protrusion on the oil pump. It is located at about the 4-5 o'clock position. Hope that helps.

[andymccauley]

Thanks man. I realigned it with the picture I found on Google reinstalled everything and it runs better than ever. Pretty sure the balance shafts or one of them were off from the last person that was in there. Car idles way better than it d.id

[sonikaccord]

Same here. I thought my ESP mounts were rough, but after the balance shaft alignment. It was much smoother almost stock-like.

[andymccauley]

Same here. I thought my ESP mounts were rough, but after the balance shaft alignment. It was much smoother almost stock-like.

this car definitly needs some mounts too. I was debating on just replacing the front mount since i had it off but I think it can wait. it wasnt totally blown out like some Hondas Ive seen.

[andymccauley]

So yesterday I took the distributor apart replaced the internal shaft seal, replaced the ICM in the dizzy and the o-ring not much changed so I advanced the timing pretty much as far as it would go by turning the dizzy and the idle smoothed way better than it has ever been.

Wired a amp into the car for the dual 12" subs that came with the car in a really ghetto box.. now the funny thing about was I found out (never really looked) that the rear shelf speakers weren't even hooked up! The subs were wired to the shelf connections!

Also found a g-shock watch that was right on time and a couple pairs of boxers stuffed up in one of the shelf speakers

[andymccauley]

No progress since fixing almost every oil leak on the car, it uses nearly no oil now. I took it for a few block drive to Safeway the other day (10 blocks, 5-10 mins round trip) and when I got back noticed the ignition key was HOT. Wasn't to hot to touch butt was definitely not normal in my opinion..

What could cause this? Old/worn out ignition switch? The car still wants to barely idle on initial start up but after holding the gas for about 2 mins it will hold at about 600 rpms, when shifting to reverse or drive it drops back down to about 2-300 and idles really rough til warm. So same old stuff going on pretty much.

[linkcb7]

My car also has hard starts when the engine temp is cold. I seen a few people recommend the fuel/main relay.. I just changed that on my car because my car wouldn't start when everything was hot. it didn't change my cold hard start ups thought. It wouldn't be a bad idea that replace but it wont effect your cold start ups from my experience. I have been chasing the same problem for a while now also. I'm about to look into a new ignition switch and see what that does.. my car has 265k so replacing parts for fun is always a good idea on my car... and I'm not familiar with what cel codes mean what. I've had good luck and haven't run into cel code problems before. but I used to mow a ladies yard that had an auto cb7 and her D4 would flash/sometimes not shift into 2 3 or 4 and would randomly die while driving. it would also run 100% fine (like when I test drove it of course the problem wouldn't show it self) but she swore on her life that it had this problem.. I went to the junkyard and found an auto cb7 with the lowest miles that I could and pulled the TCU out of it and put it in the ladies cb7. she said the problem went away... hopefully I can help cross off some diag trial and error stuff. good luck

[Accord problems]

there is one thing you can do to help with cold start . loosen you're fast idle valve adjustment about two turn give or take . it helped me with cold starts.

[andymccauley]

there is one thing you can do to help with cold start . loosen you're fast idle valve adjustment about two turn give or take . it helped me with cold starts.

I've already loosened that. I had the idle set to about 1200rpms in park just to see what it would do but nothing changed when it was cold. I'll look into finding a FP relay and if that does nothing, well guess its time to throw parts at

[s2cmpugh]

I've already loosened that. I had the idle set to about 1200rpms in park just to see what it would do but nothing changed when it was cold. I'll look into finding a FP relay and if that does nothing, well guess its time to throw parts at

You may want to consider the coolant temperature sensor for the ECU. Sometimes these sensors don't report the correct temperature of the coolant when it's cold outside, especially as they age, so the ECU doesn't trim the fuel appropriately. This will NOT set a CEL as the sensor is still connected.

You might be able to test the resistance with a multi-meter an compare it to what the book says it should be.

Hope this helps!