93 Accord maintenance and diag..

[deevergote]

If that's what the code says, then it's likely. (though we don't use the term "coil pack". We just refer to it as an "ignition coil".)

Check your wiring, and look into replacing the coil. It's a wear item, and if it's original, it's most certainly due for a change.


What brand o2 sensor did you use? Is the Code 43 still appearing?

[andymccauley]

What brand o2 sensor did you use? Is the Code 43 still appearing?

Denso of course, that code was stored when we got the car the CEL has never come on though.

After I cleared the ECU over a month ago to see if the code 43 would come back it never has since. I have just been getting a solid CEL when checking the codes.

[deevergote]

Solid CEL? In that case, the ECU itself is likely shot.
I apologize if that has already been said. I haven't read through the entire thread in a bit, and I'm hurrying out to work now... but yes, solid CEL is usually a sign of a bad ECU.

[Accord problems]

I thought it was with a solid cell on after jump means no codes . and if cell does not stay on or flash ( bad cell ).

[deevergote]

I may be wrong. Solid may mean no codes. I was in a hurry this morning (and I should know better.)

[sum123]

In addition to random stalling at operating temperature, hard starting on first start of the day in cold (especially bitter cold) temperatures is another symptom of a failing Ignition Control Module, aka, Ignitor.

[andymccauley]

No stalling at operating temp, only issue is a hard start when cold first start of the day after that it fires every time. And from what I've read too the solid CEL is no codes

[Ohaiyo]

Hey andymccauley, for me to better understand the condition of your vehicle
Did you try cleaning the valves on the intake manifold?
Also your battery, regulator, and alternator checked?
Looked into replacing the PCV on the valve cover?
checked the fluids in the master and slave reseviors?

[andymccauley]

Hey andymccauley, for me to better understand the condition of your vehicle
Did you try cleaning the valves on the intake manifold?
yes I burned seafoam through the brake booster port and added some to the tank, checked the throttle body to make sure it was clean and it was.
Also your battery, regulator, and alternator checked?
battery is brand new INTERSTATE, alternator seems to be ok. Its not, not charging the battery, I replaced the terminals
Looked into replacing the PCV on the valve cover?
have a new one but haven't swapped it out yet, now that you say that that could possibly be part of the problem, I shook it when replacing the valve cover gasket to make sure it wasn't clogged, seemed in ok condition but I plan on replacing it
checked the fluids in the master and slave reseviors?
do you mean clutch master and slave? If so it's an auto

[sum123]

No stalling at operating temp, only issue is a hard start when cold first start of the day after that it fires every time. And from what I've read too the solid CEL is no codes

Mine never displayed both symptoms I mentioned on the same Ignitor. When my original (factory) ignitor failed, it was the hard starting early in the morning happened. If temp's were down in the low 20's or lower, I would sometimes have to try 10 or more times to get it fired up before it would start. I proved it was the ignitor by rigging a way to keep the most bitter air out of the distributor one night. Fired right up the next morning. Just a few degrees makes all the difference with the ignition control module. That ignitor had just gotten old and worn out and couldn't deliver starting spark until current hit it multiple times to warm it up a little.

The second ignitor failure had the random stalling at operating temperature. Sometimes it would restart immediately and sometimes I had to wait a while. By the way, I fried that ignitor myself with about 5-seconds of very hard acceleration (gunning the motor) while passing a slowpoke. The car stalled immediately after I came out of that hard throttling and continued to stall the same way several times a day for a week, until I replaced the ignitor.

[andymccauley]

I understand the symptoms of the ignition control module failing, the hard start with this car happens no matter the temperature outside. The only time it displays a hard start issue is when the motor is cold. And it fires everytime just won't hold idle 100% of the time. If I hold the gas pedal down when cranking it over and let it run for about 2 mins it will act totally normal. The symptoms your describing aren't quite what I'm experiencing.

[andymccauley]

Alright dudes so I haven't touched the car in a couple weeks, had to replace some parts on my own car.

New issue surfaced but then stopped after a couple days, the car wouldn't shift out of park after it was started. I imagine there is a park/neutral safety switch and it is on its way out, correct?

Waiting on some cash to order a new ignition coil, ICM, and distributor shaft seal.

[Accord problems]

Alright dudes so I haven't touched the car in a couple weeks, had to replace some parts on my own car.

New issue surfaced but then stopped after a couple days, the car wouldn't shift out of park after it was started. I imagine there is a park/neutral safety switch and it is on its way out, correct?

Waiting on some cash to order a new ignition coil, ICM, and distributor shaft seal.

not totally . if you look at the brake peddle there should be a brake switch up top of it. make sure it did not brake .

[BreckAConner]

My GF just bought at 93 4DR 4 cyl, auto with 160K that has obviously been neglected for who knows how long. The 18 year old we bought it from didn't know much of anything about anything, the PO before him wrote the T-belt had been changed at 73k on the inner fender well.

After buying it and looking into it more so I found alot to do. Looked to have original plug wires, tube seals were puking, bypassed power window relay, distributor o-ring and inner seal leaking, needed 2 tires & alignment possibly front end components, severely cracked drive belts, flashing D4 light.

I've changed the plug, wires, dizzy cap n rotor, valve cover gasket, fuel filter, burned some seafoam through the intake and added some to the tank, also checked the codes. There was a CEL #43 with no CEL on when running, from looking at the code def on this sight it's a fuel delivery issue, the D4 light is a #2 which is the lock up shift solenoid, also info I've read here

After changing the valve cover gasket and the tune up a cold start issue started. After holding the gas pedal down for a few minutes every morning the motor will hold idle and start normally the rest of the day, pretty weird..

Sorry for the long post. This is my first Honda experience

For 160k, sounds like it was neglected. My 130k sedan I had to do the same stuff. I had to replace wires plugs, O2, oil pump (which was weird), timing, basically general maintenance because it hadn't been done. I hope you get your problem figured out. If not there are a lot of helpful guys here.

[andymccauley]

For 160k, sounds like it was neglected. My 130k sedan I had to do the same stuff. I had to replace wires plugs, O2, oil pump (which was weird), timing, basically general maintenance because it hadn't been done. I hope you get your problem figured out. If not there are a lot of helpful guys here.

Definitely neglected. the trans fluid and oil was clean when buying it but thats about it.

I dont think ive ever seen tube seals this bad in any honda ever in my life lol.

I'm getting ready to do the Tbelt, water pump, and shaft seals the next nice weekend. Dont doubt I could have it done in a day, Its nice to have and extra day just incase and will probably replace everything else I've previously listed.

BTW any advice on replacing the crank seal would be greatly appreciated.