Front suspension noise

[CameDaCB7]

Okay here's my problem:
I have a pretty loud clunk noise in the front while i'm driving, fast or slow. But it seems to stop when I apply the brakes. I have newer lower ball joints, new shocks, new axles, new brake pads and rotors, hub/bearing assembly. I checked everything after lifting it and the only thing i noticed odd was both tie-rods seem kinda of loose. But why would it stop making the noise after applying the brakes?
I would like to get this fix asap so your help is greatly appreciated.

[illinois_erik]

i had a clunking when my swaybar endlinks were shot. sloppy tie rod ends arent good either.

[CameDaCB7]

i had a clunking when my swaybar endlinks were shot. sloppy tie rod ends arent good either.

Oh yeah that's the other thing I have fairly new, is the endlink bushings.

[illinois_erik]

Oh yeah that's the other thing I have fairly new, is the endlink bushings.

could be spring isolators.. i duno man its hard to diagnose via text. any place do free alignment checks? you could use them to diagnose for you free under the guise of getting an alignment. lol

[johnl]

and the only thing i noticed odd was both tie-rods seem kinda of loose. But why would it stop making the noise after applying the brakes?

By "tie-rods" do you mean the steering tie-rods (rack to steering arm), or do you mean the rods attached to the lower control arm (at their rear end) and to the front sub-frame (at their front end)?

If the latter, then if the rods' rubber bushes at the front sub-frame are shot then the clunk is likely coming from there. When you apply the brakes the rod is placed in tension and any free compliance in the shot bushing is 'taken up', so the bush isn't moving around when braking.

If the former, then as you apply the brakes a strong force (either in tension or compression) is imparted into the tie-rod ('articulating' around the steering axis) and any loose compliance in the 'tie-rod-end' (at the steering arm) or at the 'rack-end' (the joint at the rack itself) is similarly 'taken up', and the clunk will disappear.

[cb7 calling]

The first thing in my mind is radius rod bushings. They don't wear out that often but would not clunk when the brakes are hit geometrically speaking. The most common clunking repair in my experience is inner tie rods.
Edit..inner tie rods are much more likely and might not clunk when the brakes are applied.

[CameDaCB7]

Sorry guys, but the one I meant was the steering tie-rods. I going to end up replacing those today. Any quick tips or advice on this job is greatly appreciated.

[wildBill83]

Inner or outer? Do both at the same time and use the right tools is my suggestion. Check out the health of the rack as well.

Mark and measure old ones to match the new as close as possible and go get an alignment right after... I mean immediately.

[CameDaCB7]

Inner or outer? Do both at the same time and use the right tools is my suggestion. Check out the health of the rack as well.

Mark and measure old ones to match the new as close as possible and go get an alignment right after... I mean immediately.

Just doing the outer ones.

[CameDaCB7]

So I just finished with the tie rods and it still making the noise.

[wildBill83]

If the problem is in the steering system you should hear it with the car stopped and by turning the wheels. If it was a tie rod problem you should replace both inner and outer as a set as the inner will surely be damaged too.

Have you done the wheel jiggle test? 12/6 & 9/3?

Have you inspected all bushings related to the suspension?

[CameDaCB7]

I guess the only thing left to replace up front are the upper control arms. The ball joints are shot. I did do the "jiggle test" and found a little bit of play on the 12/6. That's the last thing I'll do, after that I'll be out of $$ green. But thanks for everyone's help and advice.

[deevergote]

If you can afford it, it would be very wise to get new OEM upper control arms. Aftermarket arms tend to be questionable. Some people have good luck, others barely get a year out of them. OEM will likely last longer than you own this car. A worthwhile investment for something that your safety strongly depends on!

[johnl]

I guess the only thing left to replace up front are the upper control arms. The ball joints are shot.

The upper ball joints are available separate to the upper wishbone. I've just replaced mine, easy job. You'll find the ball joints on Ebay.

[wildBill83]

The upper ball joints are available separate to the upper wishbone. I've just replaced mine, easy job. You'll find the ball joints on Ebay.

How did you do it without deforming the a arms?