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Transmission shifting problem

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    #1

    Transmission shifting problem

    I have a 1990 accord sedan f22a1 manual trans and the problem im having right now is with the car not wanting to go into gear while running. When the car is off i can put it into gear and start the car but when i have to shift the trans has a hard time going into the next gear and will sometimes either grind or not go in at all. When coming to a stop i have to i have to take the car out of gear or it will stall itself out even with the pedal down engaging the clutch.
    My first thought was to replace the slave and clutch master cylinders so i did along with changing the oil in the transmission. Even after doing all of this im still having the same trouble. I was told the clutch and throw out bearing could be bad but the clutch doesn't slip at all & im not hearing any noise indicating that it would be a throw out. Im going to take the trans out soon but untill that happens is there anyone here that has experienced similar problems and could help or give any suggestions?
    Thanks.
    Tags: accord 90 lx, honda, transmision
    #2
    Sounds like you still have to bleed your master and slave more.






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      #3
      Yea i think im gonna try that a few good times because the pedal has quite a bit of play in it now that i think about. Thanks gonna try it when i get the chance.

      Comment

        #4
        how much of a clutch pedal do you actually have...what i mean by tht is how far do you have to push the clutch pedal before it engages the flexplate?
        F22B1 Swap. #StanceNation

        91' Accord Project

        Paint is custom faded. (Love the Frankenstein look!)

        Comment

          #5
          No flexplate in a manual transmission.

          Sounds like your pressure plate is done. Plan on replacing your clutch. Don't forget a new Honda pilot bearing while you are there.

          Black Housing DIY 1991 Wagon Morimoto Retrofit
          JDM One-Piece Headlight Lens Repair

          Comment

            #6
            Im not sure it's almost about half pedal before it does.
            If the bleeding doesn't work looks like the clutch is what I'll be replacing next along with whatever eles.

            Comment

              #7
              Everything you're describing are things that I've experienced myself after changing my clutch hydraulics. It was just a matter of bleeding. I tried EVERYTHING. If you search my post history, you can find multiple threads on it! My friend eventually pried on my shifter fork at the slave, and we managed to get full pressure. Anything else before that was only half pressure, no more. Not enough to be able to shift into gear with the engine running.

              While djcas_aom has a point about the pressure plate, it's PROBABLY not the problem. Could be, but it's most likely that it's just a hydraulic bleeding issue.






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                #8
                You can tell if it's a hydraulic problem or not by looking at the clutch fork under the hood and seeing how much it moves while your buddy presses the clutch.

                If it's moving the whole amount of travel smoothly then hydraulics are good and time to look at the fork, pressure plate, disc and all that.

                If it's not moving at all or very much then you still have air in the system, or your master or slave are bad

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                  #9
                  Those are both good points guys. I was under the impression that he already checked the movement of the slave cylinder.

                  The one place that I have found that gets trapped with air, is the 20yr. old dampner. I always delete it.

                  So, I would look at that slave before taking the tranny off. Good call guys.

                  Black Housing DIY 1991 Wagon Morimoto Retrofit
                  JDM One-Piece Headlight Lens Repair

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                    #10
                    So i bled the car some more again an started it up tonight and still no luck. When i started it the shifter did go into reverse which it wasn't before BUT while the clutch was still in the car was moving in reverse. Tried 1st gear and wouldn't go into gear but the moving forward with the clutch in happened in 1st too. Looks like im gonna have to look into the transmission at this point.

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                      #11
                      Pressure plate my man
                      1991 cb7 daily driver and huge project

                      http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/pu...tml?sort=3&o=1

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by djcaz_aom View Post
                        The one place that I have found that gets trapped with air, is the 20yr. old dampner. I always delete it.
                        After I deleted my damper I had no assistant on hand to help bleed the system, so just did a quick 'rough bleed' on my own as best I could. When I later did have an assistant I bled it again properly, and no air came out...
                        Regards from Oz,
                        John.

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                          #13
                          Sorry for hijack, but did the clutch feel different after deleting the damper?

                          I deleted the damper on my NSX and after that now at high rpm (6000+) I get a rough feeling in the clutch when I shift. I don't like it actually--it feels like something is not right in the clutch to me.

                          Just wondering if the same thing happens to the CB7

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by aventari View Post
                            Sorry for hijack, but did the clutch feel different after deleting the damper?
                            Yes. Check this recent thread:

                            http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=205682

                            Originally posted by aventari View Post
                            I deleted the damper on my NSX and after that now at high rpm (6000+) I get a rough feeling in the clutch when I shift. I don't like it actually--it feels like something is not right in the clutch to me.

                            Just wondering if the same thing happens to the CB7
                            I don't know why you would be getting a "rough feeling in the clutch" when shifting at high rpm. With my damper delete I haven't noticed anything I could describe as 'rough', but I also don't know what "rough feeling" is actually describing...

                            I also don't shift at rpm over 6000, the f22a9 doesn't really do anything worthwhile much above that...
                            Regards from Oz,
                            John.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              If the clutch hydraulics are up to par, the clutch is highly suspect then. Get an Exedy OEM replacement clutch kit off Amazon.

                              Comment

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