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91' CB9 D4 light constant on, Please assist!!

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    #1

    91' CB9 D4 light constant on, Please assist!!

    Hi all, new to the forum, and new to Honda in general...

    So let me start at the beginning...

    About 2 weeks ago, I bought a 91 Honda Accord Wagon for a work car. Car supposedly set for approx. 1 year under a carport on a concrete pad. Got the car home and the started looking into what I needed to fix to drive it.

    So far I have discovered the car doesn't want to pull itself in D4 or D3, but will pull itself just fine if I manually shift to 1st or 2nd. The power windows don't work. The instrument cluster lights, headlights, and park lights only work when the brake pedal is depressed, the radio doesn't play, the antenna doesn't go up or down but it's motor runs. Last but not least the engine didn't want to idle when I brought it home,after running it a few times this seems to have gone away though.

    This thread is about the trans though...

    Like I said above, the car doesn't seem to want to pull itself if I select D3 or D4, but if I manually select 1st or 2nd gear it seems to pull just fine.

    I think it is worth mentioning I have not drove this car on the road yet due to it having some issues I want to sort out before I start "driving" it. But have moved it around the yard and driveway (which is about a mile long).

    The D4 lights is staying illuminated at all times unless I put it into D4 as well.

    Upon doing some research I concluded that the TCU was bad, and set out on a search for a parts car with a good TCU. Found a 92' CB7 in the middle of a old strip mine on craigslist, went and checked out what was left of the car, paid the man, and drug it home (not knowing whether the TCU was good or not.) Today, well yesterday now... I got up and pulled the TCU out of my CB9 and the TCU out of the CB7 and opened them both up. The CB9 TCU was definitely fried and the CB7 TCU appeared to be fine, so I removed the ECM/ECU from my CB9 tray and hooked it and the CB7 TCU up loose in my CB9 floorboard. (No fix) D4 light still on solid. (I have not driven car since replacing TCU as tires and rims off my CB9 are on the CB7 on the trailer ATM...) also swapped the cruise control module because it was hanging loose and was marked AT (not knowing exactly what it was...and AT screams automatic trans to me lol) (No fix, swapped back)

    I am planning on removing and testing Shift Solenoids,and wanted to know if anybody knew what values they were supposed to read if good.

    If anyone has any other suggestions on this issue, I would be grateful for the assistance.

    Car is a virgin (bone stock), and I plan on keeping it that way until I get it 100% fixed. That being said it is also going to be my work car and I don't want to put a ton of cash into it. I'm driving almost 80 miles a day to work and back home and my 08' F150 isn't exactly easy on gas lol. So the quicker and cheaper I can fix this the better.

    Thanks in advance ,
    Cole
    Tags: None
    #2
    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=21259






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      #3
      I knew that I forgot something. Checked codes, none present. Only light that is illuminated on instrument cluster that shouldn't be is the D4 light in all gears except D4... When in D4 no odd lights are on.

      The CEL did illuminate while jumping the blue connector, but never flashed, and went out immediately after removing jumper wire.
      Last edited by Nankuronisa; 04-18-2016, 09:50 AM.

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by Nankuronisa View Post
        I knew that I forgot something. Checked codes, none present. Only light that is iluminated on instrument cluster that shouldn't be is the D4 light in all gears except D4... When in D4 no odd lights are on.
        sounds like the caps in the TCM have dried up and caused havoc. try swapping in another computer. The other stuff i dunno..id go thru and see what kinda hack job the PO did to the wiring and undo it.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by illinois_erik View Post
          sounds like the caps in the TCM have dried up and caused havoc. try swapping in another computer. The other stuff i dunno..id go thru and see what kinda hack job the PO did to the wiring and undo it.
          I have already swapped the TCM, opened both up while swapping, the one that was in my CB9 had a burnt resistor, and the one out of my CB7 parts car is nice and clean inside. Did not correct the problem.

          The wiring appears to be clean is the other head scratcher, no mods to the car at all, even had/has the factory radio in it. Will be going through checking for open circuits on a couple things though. Really needing to get this thing going, will be tearing into it after work again today.

          Comment

            #6
            No codes flashing through the D4 light when the service connector is jumped and the key turned to the II position?

            It's possible that the new TCU is damaged as well.

            Other than the TCU, the wiring is pretty much the only other possible culprit.






            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by deevergote View Post
              No codes flashing through the D4 light when the service connector is jumped and the key turned to the II position?

              It's possible that the new TCU is damaged as well.

              Other than the TCU, the wiring is pretty much the only other possible culprit.
              Correct...

              That is true, is there a way to test it without a running driving car to swap?

              What wiring do I need to trace?
              I haven't dug into that aspect yet as far as this trans issue goes...

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by Nankuronisa View Post
                Correct...

                That is true, is there a way to test it without a running driving car to swap?

                What wiring do I need to trace?
                I haven't dug into that aspect yet as far as this trans issue goes...
                best way would be sending it out to be refurbished, its not that expensive and they have the rigs to bench test them as if they were operating a vehicle.
                Only other idea is the water outlet (thermostat), below that are a few bonded ground wires, that ground is for the computers, id check for corrosion and clean it up, or run a continuity check from that point to the neg bat terminal and see if its a nice low impedance loop.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by illinois_erik View Post
                  best way would be sending it out to be refurbished, its not that expensive and they have the rigs to bench test them as if they were operating a vehicle.
                  Only other idea is the water outlet (thermostat), below that are a few bonded ground wires, that ground is for the computers, id check for corrosion and clean it up, or run a continuity check from that point to the neg bat terminal and see if its a nice low impedance loop.

                  They are simple to refurb, just replace the caps and a few resistors if burned...

                  Really don't want to put much more cash into this thing, it's getting too expensive to fast...

                  Will look at the T-stat housing wiring tonight.

                  __________________________________________________ _______________



                  Small update, didn't get to pull shift solenoids and test them... When I got home my Dad had the dash tore apart chasing wires on the power windows...

                  So basically no update...

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Essentially no update on the transmission issue, but I did get one of the wiring problems fixed, my power windows now work... still having park lights, instrument cluster lights, and clock light up when the brake pedal is depressed... One more issue out of the way...

                    Going to try and swap the rims back onto my car today, and take it for a drive. See what the trans does when it's actually driving. Never know, could just need driven lol.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Nankuronisa View Post
                      They are simple to refurb, just replace the caps and a few resistors if burned...
                      Hmm if its so simple the why are you even asking about it? Youre treading into askhole country, when you post a question get an answer then drop little quips like that. First Id drop the 25 cents worth of components into both of your TCU's then when that doesnt work, then start asking people to look into their crystal balls.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by illinois_erik View Post
                        Hmm if its so simple the why are you even asking about it? You're treading into askhole country, when you post a question get an answer then drop little quips like that. First Id drop the 25 cents worth of components into both of your TCU's then when that doesn't work, then start asking people to look into their crystal balls.
                        Call it what you want, there's not much to soldering caps and resistors into a circut board. I've been messing around with computers and such since I was little. I'm not an expert on Honda by no means, but the TCU is a simple circuit board. I can't test them, but I'm not going to throw money at something when I can probably fix it myself. If all else fails and I've exhausted all other possibilities that's when I'll go back to the TCU and start double checking what I've already eliminated.

                        The one I installed looked to be sound, the one I took out was obviously not.

                        I am at this point simply asking for other possibilities to eliminate before spending more money.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Nankuronisa View Post
                          Call it what you want, there's not much to soldering caps and resistors into a circut board. I've been messing around with computers and such since I was little. I'm not an expert on Honda by no means, but the TCU is a simple circuit board. I can't test them, but I'm not going to throw money at something when I can probably fix it myself. If all else fails and I've exhausted all other possibilities that's when I'll go back to the TCU and start double checking what I've already eliminated.

                          The one I installed looked to be sound, the one I took out was obviously not.

                          I am at this point simply asking for other possibilities to eliminate before spending more money.
                          I can guarantee you that it is not always easy to find the issue on the TCU board. My TCU went bad and I was told I would see a burnt part or leaky capacitor. I swear that I stared at the stupid circuit board for a total of 10 hours. I was finally able to see the issue and it was microscopic (slight exaggeration)

                          All I am trying to say is even though it "looked to be sound" there could be an issue with the board that you aren't seeing.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by oni_cb7 View Post
                            I can guarantee you that it is not always easy to find the issue on the TCU board. My TCU went bad and I was told I would see a burnt part or leaky capacitor. I swear that I stared at the stupid circuit board for a total of 10 hours. I was finally able to see the issue and it was microscopic (slight exaggeration)

                            All I am trying to say is even though it "looked to be sound" there could be an issue with the board that you aren't seeing.
                            I have recently had two TCMs repaired by "mandigital" on ebay. You ship him your TCM, he repairs it and ships it back. Quick service (repaired and shipped within a day). Lifetime warranty. $75; more expensive than fixing it yourself (if you're handy with that sort of thing) or some used ones (no guarantee to work or last), but a heck of a lot cheaper than new ($600+) from Honda even if they were available.
                            90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                            08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by oni_cb7 View Post
                              I can guarantee you that it is not always easy to find the issue on the TCU board. My TCU went bad and I was told I would see a burnt part or leaky capacitor. I swear that I stared at the stupid circuit board for a total of 10 hours. I was finally able to see the issue and it was microscopic (slight exaggeration)

                              All I am trying to say is even though it "looked to be sound" there could be an issue with the board that you aren't seeing.
                              I'm also not disagreeing that there may be something wrong with the board I installed, I understand sometimes the problems are not easy to find, like I said I've been messing with computers, and circuit boards since i was a kid. Like I stated in my previous post though, I already bought the parts car and would like to make sure it's not something else before I spend more money having this one re-manufactured...

                              Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
                              I have recently had two TCMs repaired by "mandigital" on ebay. You ship him your TCM, he repairs it and ships it back. Quick service (repaired and shipped within a day). Lifetime warranty. $75; more expensive than fixing it yourself (if you're handy with that sort of thing) or some used ones (no guarantee to work or last), but a heck of a lot cheaper than new ($600+) from Honda even if they were available.
                              Good info, and appreciated. If it comes back around to me sending one of them off I will keep him in mind. I agree, $75 is a heck of a lot better than $150 +


                              __________________________________________________ _______________

                              Basically no update for yesterday, and won't be one today either, had company yesterday, and going to look at a Ford F1 tonight.
                              Last edited by Nankuronisa; 04-21-2016, 10:07 AM.

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