mine always idles really low until I cleaned out the throttle body then it started the surging. I havent messed with the idle screw, but Im tightening the ring this weekend.
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For all those with idle problems
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i found this thread while looking for a different problem. but it may help the other problem on top of fixing the rpm surging. could rpm surging have to do with the vss?
also i have the h23 plenum and runner. i have a h22 tb. it looks like its gonna be a bitch to get to get to the fast idle valve
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after having my fast idle valve replaced
and the problem still remained
a few weeks later, i found out that there was oil in the spark plug area and i had all the spark plug and valve cover gaskets replaced
afted that, i didnt have surging idle problems anymore!
it will still idle pretty low though, most of the time at 500-600 rpm and the engine shakes from that
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follow proper procedures for setting the idle.
if it's still too low...unscrew the idle screw with the car running and the IACV plugged in...not the proper way but when all else fails...
same with if it idles too high.
BUT ONLY AFTER YOU'VE SET IT PROPERLY FIRST! and after you've cleaned and adjusted.
My problem was just because the screw would keep backing itself out...diry tb won't help...and dirty iacv won't help either...which is why I say clean first...then reset idle...the reset sorta improperly...then if that don't work...eeeck..new parts____
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i just did this the other day lol the guy at the shop taught me glad to see its in the forums
..."CLASSIK"-CB790 ex... {UNDEFINED}My Classy but Sick (Classik) Black on Black Members Ride Thread
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can't see the photos
Originally posted by DaBzzMnHey guys, I wanted to post this because i am tired of seeing the same thing over and over, "Help idle problems" or "My idle is revving back and forth" I have looked up a picture to show you all on how to fix the problem. Down below is a picture showing the intake manifold.
If you look at group #8-has numbers 3,9,19,26- thats is whats call the fast idle valve. As a honda tech standard on paper this is how you correct the problem.
1) Start the engine
2) remove the cover of the idle valve by the two screws
3) Push your finger on the valve seat area-the cone shaped object inside- and make sure that there is airflow with the engin cold
* If not, replace the fast idle valve and retest
4) Warm up the engine (cooling fans come on twice)
5) Check that the valve is completely closed. If not, air suction can be felt (by putting your hand over the top) in the valve seat area.
* If any suction is felt, the valve is leaking. Replace the fast idle valve and recheck
To help out even further, if you having a surging problem there is a ring around the air bypass valve. turnit to the left to stop the surging.
Thanks
Anton1992 Honda Accord LX 2.2, CB7, F22A1, Bordeaux Red Pearl; Makati City, Philippines
Member: Accord Tuners (AT) of Honda Club Philippines (HCP) aka tibo_3rd
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Originally posted by DaBzzMnHey guys, I wanted to post this because i am tired of seeing the same thing over and over, "Help idle problems" or "My idle is revving back and forth" I have looked up a picture to show you all on how to fix the problem. Down below is a picture showing the intake manifold.
If you look at group #8-has numbers 3,9,19,26- thats is whats call the fast idle valve. As a honda tech standard on paper this is how you correct the problem.
1) Start the engine
2) remove the cover of the idle valve by the two screws
3) Push your finger on the valve seat area-the cone shaped object inside- and make sure that there is airflow with the engin cold
* If not, replace the fast idle valve and retest
4) Warm up the engine (cooling fans come on twice)
5) Check that the valve is completely closed. If not, air suction can be felt (by putting your hand over the top) in the valve seat area.
* If any suction is felt, the valve is leaking. Replace the fast idle valve and recheck
To help out even further, if you having a surging problem there is a ring around the air bypass valve. turnit to the left to stop the surging.
Thanks
Antonyou'll love my nuts!
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Originally posted by bcjammerxfrom the way you describe it you do not
the problem comes when your car idles at 2000 (not 1800) and stays there...
or when your idle bounces...pulses...goes back and forth...whatever...
900 up to 1800 back to 900 back to 1800 back to 900 etc etc...
normal is 1500-1800 till warm up then slowly goes down to 700-900...then after driving it ALWAYS goes back to 700-900 range at a stop/neutral.back to do it again... no flipping of accords this time!!!
Hit me up with techy questions if i don't have an answer i can get an answer...
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For the stripped screw: Vice Grips. Then go to Lowes and get:
"Hex Cap Screw
Class 8.8
M5-.80 x 12"
As for the idling, how long should "warm-up" take? When i start my car, no matter the weather, it jumps right to 1300-1500RPMs and takes anywhere from 3-8 minutes to come down to 800RPMs. Is that a normal time period?
I feel like im wasting a good portion of gas on warm-up alone.
But how do you go about cleaning the fitv? Do you just pull the little cap off and remove the inside parts and clean them, or....?
KeepinItClean | EnviousFilms | NoBigDeal | YET2BSCENE | .· ` ' / ·. | click here.
Originally posted by JarrettIs there a goal you're trying to accomplish besides looking dope as hell?
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Nothing?
I made 23mpg this last time and im willing to bet that if i didnt have to sit for 5 minutes almost everytime i started my car, i wouldve been able to squueze out another mpg or 2.
KeepinItClean | EnviousFilms | NoBigDeal | YET2BSCENE | .· ` ' / ·. | click here.
Originally posted by JarrettIs there a goal you're trying to accomplish besides looking dope as hell?
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